I figure most people shoot off the riser but I am curious if any one uses some sort of an arrow rest.
Do you think using anything besides the riser or your hand takes away from the experience of shooting a traditional bow?
FYI, I am shooting off a a little arrow rest and shooting well but am thinking of taking it off and shooting off the riser. Any idea how much accuracy I would lose?
I shoot off my own homemade feather rest. It's only slightly elevated due to the bed of feathers. Works great.
I'm using a new design plunger style springy rest on the recurve I'm hunting with. I love it. In fact, I'm having a Schafer Silvertip made that will be drilled to accept this plunger-style arrow resst.
I think my set-up is more forgiving with this style of rest and definitely more adjustable.
I've got a Bear Weatherest on my ILF setup and it improved my arrow flight dramatically.
I shoot off a rest. It seems to me that I get better arrow flight, better groups and my kill ratio is way up since I put one back on my bow. One thing I found is that when I was shooting off the shelf there were some broadheads that were very tricky if not impossible to shoot well. Shooting off of a rest has taken care of that and every braodhead I have I can shoot well.
"The arrow MUST be as close to the hand as possible for accurate instinctive shooting" is the biggest old wives tale in traditional archery as far as I am concerned. Your brain doesn't care if you shoot the arrow off your knuckle or off a rest 1" off the shelf. Every single bow I have added an elevated rest to (not just my own, but other friends as well) has had improved arrow flight and resulted in much easier tuning. You are not going to be any more connected as long as one hand is holding the riser and one hand is ON the string.
It has proved to be a great addition on my longbows. I have not noticed it so much on my recurves though.
(http://i154.photobucket.com/albums/s271/Limbow/DSC_1022.jpg)
Paul Schafer himself was a "rest" guy. He was one of the "kings" of all trad guys.
I'll shoot both but prefer a rest, very simple like a stick on hoyt plastic rest. But I shoot olympic syle bows too, with plungers and magnetic flipper type rests. DEADLY accurate. From a treestand, I like off the shelf, canting downward is easier for me when I don't have to worry about the arrow slipping off a rest. In other words...I switch back and forth all the time! Its fun.
T-300 rest great rest
I either shoot off a feather rest or the shelf. I agree your mind should be able to adjust to either method.
I could see some logic in a rest having less surface area contact with an arrow vs some shelves and thus less of a chance in magnifying imperfections in arrow surface or flight movement as it passes over the rest.
I still prefer wood shafts on feather or shelf.
This thread is inspiring me to pick up one of those old bear rests and stick it back on one of my early 70's Grizzlies and give it a whirl though.
Would you guys be will to post a picture of your rests? Especially those that have unique set ups.
Steve O hit the nail on the head. You'lll get much better arrow flight and should improve your shooting. I used them on recurves back in the 70's and they were very popular then.
Switched to a rest a few years ago just to experiment shooting vanes. Haven't taken it off since (Bear weather rest on a Schafer recurve). Seems to me it is a little more forgiving.
Feather rest for me. I seem to get better arrow flight that way.
Flipper rest on my Recurves. shelf on my longbows
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Glenn
Very interesting subject, hopefully it keeps going.
I agree with Steve O. I don't think a raised arrow rest hinders instinctive shooting. At least for me, my accuracy has improved with an arrowrest (Bear Weather-rest) and my arrow flight is improved. My rest makes a bit more noise than shooting off a sealskin or calf-hair shelf. Any suggestions to quiet down the rest?
Ward
I shoot instinctive, never had a problem with a rest in any way. I have bear weatherests on several bows, a couple of T-300, a flipper and magnetic flipper, both with a plunger button. I also use the older bear whisker rest, or as my buddy calls it a 1968 Whisker Biscuit rest. I think you will find you get much better arrow flight on all your bows with a rest, and will be able to shoot a large variety of spines/weight shafts without too much difficulty, and your whole set up will be more forgiving. I had a buddy who was about to quit trad, shooting off the shelf. I finally convinced him to try a stick on bear rest, solved 90% of the problems he was having with his shooting/tuning. He now keeps 6 extra rest in his toolbox.
I am slowly adding the Bear weatherrest to just about all of my bows. I get better arrow flight, but I like to shoot with vanes instead of feathers, vanes are quieter. When I am breaking in my weatherrest I shoot about a hundred arrows or so to get a groove in the strike plate, once that is established I put teflon tape on the strike plate then on the flipper. I would post a picture but I can't seem to figure out how to add one, with this setup it is quiet enough for me.
I just read my post and didn't explain the teflon tape, the teflon tape makes for a MUCH improved draw and release. Less Drag!!!
Moleskin makes the Bear WR deadly silent
(http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b351/osminski/DSC01070.jpg)
Ahhahh! Thanks Steve O! That's what my Tall Tines will look like this evening when I deck it out with moleskin.
Most of my bows have rug rests but an old Root Gamemaster came with a Flipper rest and I shot it well so I left it on.
I'll have to take a pic But what Steve O posted is kind of what My PSE Kingfisher recurve looks like (Camo Moleskin)
Just make sure your stick on rest isn't too thick for your setup or it will have your arrow sitting too far away from the riser. You don't want your adhesive strip to be too thick either. A lot of guys give up after a few shots but don't realize they need a thinner rest. If you see a lot of older target recurves, alot of them had the sight window sanded thinner than factory to get more of a center shot. If you order a bow today set up for a rest, they are usually all set.
I use a Trap feather rest on my Bear Montana longbow. It works great. I am not sure why but it just does.
Martin
I prefer the shelf close to the knuckle, AKA "Fred's grip". However, I do just fine w/ an elevated rest. I have a 1968 Shakespeare Necedah recurve that has a very high shelf with a feather rest that I shoot well. I think you can get you can get used to either a high or low rest.
QuoteOriginally posted by mmisciag:
I use a Trap feather rest on my Bear Montana longbow. It works great. I am not sure why but it just does.
Martin
Would you happen to have a pic of your set up?
Ok guys, newbie here. So what you guys seem to be saying is that a flipper type rest may improve accuracy?
Yes.
I'm not saying that but the one and only bow with a flipper rest shoots well. Not better than a rug but just as good.
I started out with a safety pin bent in the position of a flipper rest and taped on with heavy duty tape. It worked great for a number of years, then I took all of that off and now I've got a pad of beaver hide with the hair trimmed down to make a nice little mat for the arrow to rest on, same thing for the back plate. My arrows fly awesome off of the beaver hair/leather hide. Beaver works so well for me because the hair is so dense, when you trim the long guard hairs off of it the underfur is super thick and hard to wear out!