I been trying to bare shaft tune a new to me bow and am having a lot of difficulty. The bow came to me and it seem to have a really high nocking point. Sure enough when I started shooting bare shafts they were hitting noticibly tail high in my target from about 12yds. I started moving the nock point down 1/16 at a time using my bow square all the way to perfectly level and the problem didnt change. I moved the nock back to its original position and started moving it up 1/16 at a time with no change. Arrows are showing slightly weak(tail left)but I have always been told to correct the nock position first. What should I do now?
Often this is cause by something you are doing. Do you shoot split finger? If yes check to make sure you are not putting pressure on the shaft. Eyeball the shaft at full draw and see if there is a bend. Vertical pressure could cause the back of the shaft to kick off the shelf. You could try shooting 3 under and see if you can tune nock that way which would confirm the previous.
Since this isn't "your original" bow Also make sure there is no limb twist and that the tiller is still OK.
get an arrow test kit and try different spined arrows.also try dirrerent point weights.hope this helps.don't give up,steve
QuoteOriginally posted by seabass:
get an arrow test kit and try different spined arrows.also try dirrerent point weights.hope this helps.don't give up,steve
:thumbsup:
I shoot 2 fingers under and I was shooting fletched 2213 very well but only had a couple arrows. I have 10 2312 shafts and was hoping to shoot them. I was just trying to fine tune arrow flight slightly but this tail high is really hurting me. The shafts are showing slightly weak but I have enough extra length to cut off that I feel confident I can stiffen them up that way or I can go to a 100gr head instead of 125s but I really want to correct the tail high first. I have never had a bow that arrow flight didnt respond some way when the nock was moved either good or bad.
BTW the bow is a like new Martin Mamba at 60#. The limbs are straight and evrything on it is factory issue. It is on loan to me from a buddy that cant shoot it because of an elbow injury. I shot it great for a few days with fletched 2213s but was just wanting to fine tune a little. Should I go back to shooting fletched shafts and forget it?
This is elementary but have you tried turning the nock to re-orient the fletching? Maybe you have some contact with the shelf (or rest)?
I am trying to bare shaft tune so there is now fletching to contact the shelf.
Is it possible the bow is tillered 3-under?
Turk-forget the bare shaft, and get to the fletched arrows. I did this same thing and spent hours of frustration until I pitched the bare shaft out!! Good luck.
Kennyb
Try the OL Adcock method and leave the bare shafts in the closet. I did the same thing and went crazy. His method is much easier and better for your health!
Im not familiar with the OL Adcock method of tuning what is it?
Its tuning fletched arrows, broadheads on a few and feild tips on a few. Just search OL Adcock tuning and you will find it. It works
Adcock Planing method
http://bowmaker.net/tuning.htm
Turkhunter if all else fails raise your brace height 1/8 or 1/4 inch. Worked for me for same problem you're having. I learned that from a well respected bowyer.
Apparently the arrow bends a bit in the vertical plane as well as horizontal.
JW
OL Adcocks planing method does use bare shafts-along with fletched.You are only concerned with how the bare shafts impact in relation to the fletched.After you have the bare shafts impacting with the fletched,then shoot fletched broadhead arrows and if they impact exactly like the fletched field point arrows,you are tuned.
Form issues can affect how a bare shaft flies and which way the nock leans.