Im not a carbon shooter but im soon going to be shooting a new fiberglass longbow and want to shoot carbons for a little more consistency in each arrow and a little flatter arrow flight.
Are they worth the asking price? or is there better ways to go? :dunno:
Any input is welcome and i thanks you for it.
God bless.
I have some. With certain bows they shoot to the right, when shooting right handed, compared to tapered cedars, my lighter longbows, my recurve and my heavier longbows. However, with one, 57.5@26", they shoot close enough that if I shoot just a couple of arrows, I can have them zeroed in. I suspect it has something to do with the continuous taper in the lighter bows and the spine in the heavier bows. Do they kill deer better than my Rogue River tapered cedars? Not that I have seen, for elk it may be a different story.
I love them. Very tough, high quality shafts. Makes for a good heavy arrow.
They don't handle hard impacts too well, splitting around the insert. This has happened on shoulders as well as on termite mounds. The Douglas fir is way stronger.
I have some and like them. But I would buy Beman MFX trad. shafts over them.
The good thing about them is that they can be made really heavy and they do fly well out of really heavy bows. However, if you shoot normal game from normal bows, other carbons will suit you better.
I glue the inserts with hard epoxy and then wrap the ends and secure with glue, just like I do with fiberglass shafts to prevent splitting possibilities. Has anyone tried the tapered doug fir shafts from Allegeny Mountain Arrow Woods?
I'm shooting tapered Doug Fir from Surewood-excellent!
Ok from your guys opinions/experience i dont think they are what im looking for.
What about BEMAN MFX classic carbon arrows they any good?
Is there a lot of modification you have to do to the arrows so they shoot good?
Thanks for your time and input.
God bless.
My two cents: I love my GRizz sticks, if you are shooting a bow less than 60 lbs @ your draw. I would look at Gold Tip or Arrow dynamics trad.
I dont think they shoot better than my woods but I prefer them in the rain....
Those Grizzly Sticks sure pretty!!! To me anyway
I just lost my riser because the bow dry fired when the nock broke on the grizzlystik. That was one very expensive nock. So if you ask me I hate them.
And by the way the nock broke inside the shaft.
Could never get them to fly right - went to AD's and that solved the problem (after replacing the nocks). I shoot under 60 lbs. I did like the way they looked, and I know people who love them. Most of them shoot heavy weight bows.
I like the MFX Classic, easy to tune, flies great. My setup is 29inch 500 arrow, 175 VPA Terrminator, with a 50# RER recurve.
I use Grizzlies for big heavy game. Took my buff with a 1000 grain stik and STOS head combo out of a 76 pound silvertip. They shot soooooo well. Quartering away at 25 yards it buried to the nock, have pics of the freshly downed buff, when I figure how to post I'll put them up. Penetration was unbelieveable. BUT!!!!! I agree with the other guys, for whitetails and such from lighter bows, there are a lot of better options. Beman, Carbon Express, Goldtip, etc. All make high quality carbons that are easy to tune and shoot. Never had a problem with damage. Caribou, bears, elk, red stag, whitetails, carp, wild boar....never a damaged arrow yet with carbons. But I have heard a few bad stories, maybe I've been lucky.
MFX vote here as well.I have grizzly sticks too and like em cause they fly well for a heavy shaft and make for a quiet shot.The MFX are simply more durable and easier to tune.100 grain brass inserts are readily available and you will be strongly challenged trying to break one as long as your not shooting rocks and such.I still wouldnt trade a good set of woodies for any carbon shaft out there.I usually have a combination of woodies and MFX in my quivers.Grizzly sticks come out when I need a large diameter shaft for shooting 3Ds for points.
Well hey im just trying to find some nice shooting arrows and if carbons aint them then speak now please! In your experience what would shoot the best? (in your opinion) Wood (please say what type) carbon..etc Im not looking for a arrow that bends easy and is slow thats why i was thinking carbon but i have know experience with carbon. Any input is great and thanks for your time!
The bow i will be shooting from is a 66" longbow it will be in the 50 55# range at 27.5 length draw.
God bless.
I have 18 sitka blems cut at 27 3/4 never used would trade for a dozen MFX .500 spined.
Last year I killed 5 deer,1 hog and at least 5 armadillos with same Alaskan Grizzly Stick shaft. 5th deer broke the shaft because head stuck in a root on pass through while back half of shaft was still in deer. We do not have many termites mounds here in MIssissippi but if I see one, I'll pass on it
Here's the answer you are looking for...whats better carbon or wood right? Every wood shaft is different from the one next to it. Wood is natures shaft, very imperfect. Carbon are built to EXTREME specifications. If you want perfect arrow flight, shoot carbon. You'll be better off with a perfectly matched arrow. But then again, a perfectly machined metal risered olympic style bow is also much more structurally perfect than any custom wood bow will ever be. But you shoot a longbow, that says something about you. You enjoy the challenge of shooting a bow that requires more skill and time to shoot well. You are limiting yourself! You are a TRAD GUY!
Now what you don't want to hear, carbons may NOT be your answer.. Trad guys love wood, and know how to shoot them. If you are competing for the IBO open championship, wood is out. But for hunting and 3D, a really good set of woods is just fine. You have to put the work in to see what type of wood shoots out of your bow. Tapered port oxford cedars are an absolutely killer shaft, and there are other great woods too.. I'd gladly hunt with them any day. Plus you get the satisfaction of shooting a more traditional shaft instead of a modern one, if thats your thing.
Carbons are a GREAT hunting and tournament shaft. So are woods. Carbons break for some, so do woods. I think the decision is not as difficult as you are making it. Part of the fun is making things work through your own trial and error.
As far as arrow speed, throw that out the window. If you shoot a quality bow with a matched arrow, it will shoot PLENTY fast enough to kill anything you are hunting. Trad guys dont make many 50 yard shots like the modern guys do. At those distances, one step of an animal turns a kill into a bad wound. If your arrow is flying too slow, it is just WAY too heavy. Holy crap, someone tell me to shut up!
I built a shooting machine years ago. I rebuilt it so I could put my longbows in it. I wanted, at that time, to see if aluminum arrows would be better than the woods that I was using, because every so often I would get a wacko flying aluminum arrow and my woods seemed more consistent. At 25 yards I could not afford to test more than three arrows because the fourth arrow blew them into splinters in my Saunders mat. I suppose it depends on the bow, but a forgiving set of good wood shafts, tapered Rogue River cedar is what i tested, are easy to pick a spine cut to a length that is not crazy long and use with confidence. I am not one that enjoys messing around with varied insert weights and I like my arrows as short as possible. For someone that just wants a reliable good set of arrows right from the get go, i always recommend wood. And I will be giving Shurwood a call.
I went to AD trads this year and love them. I shoot mostly judos and hit a lot of hard stuff without any damage. Have gone through 2 judos and 2 refletching on the same shaft. I shoot the regular trads out of a 66" 63# Robertson and now a 66" 59# Pronghorn with perfect flight. With 250 up front and 100 grain inserts they come in at 715 grains. My best friend just started shooting them with 175 grains heads out of his Schafer 73# recurve. A couple years ago he tried grizzly sticks and couldn't get them tuned. Trad lites would work for you. I got mine from Paul at Badger arrows good guy to deal with.
Ok ive been thinking about this and i dont like to even think about tuning carbon arrows etc etc, with that said i shot some tapered cedar arrows about a year ago or so and they shot very nice and if i could have those nice of flying wood arrows again i would, but now for the question.
What is the best arrow wood for staying straight and is not over heavy? but can be bot in tapered shaft?
Thanks for your time and input its a really big help to me! :)
God bless.
Tapered Cedar and Spruce are light and straight.
QuoteOriginally posted by SaMbO2:
What is the best arrow wood for staying straight and is not over heavy? but can be bot in tapered shaft?
Wow, that's like asking who's kid is smartest at the PTA meeting! I can't wait to see the answers on this one :p
Sorry if its a hard question it doesnt have to be super light i need some wait to have good penetration.
I had a dozen Sitkas. I gave them away. I lost more inserts and had the tips split just shooting into an excelsior bale. Yes I was using what ABS recommended glue for the inserts. I was using them for tomato sticks, since I couldn't recommend them if I were to sell them. Someone wanted to try them so I gave them to him.
CX Heritage shafts for me - heavy, tough, shoot great (bare shaft to 40 yards) and much cheaper. Although I am going try douglas fir in the future.
Save yourself some money.
Way too heavy for any arrows I need.Much rather have the Beman bowhunters or GT Entradas myself.If I had to have a wood grain finish it would be Easton or GTs as well.The CX Heritage are ok but still heavier than I want in a shaft.Unless the quality has changed a lot all the above are far better than the Grizzly Sticks and priced a lot more sensible as well. jmho
QuoteOriginally posted by SaMbO2:
Ok from your guys opinions/experience i dont think they are what im looking for.
What about BEMAN MFX classic carbon arrows they any good?
Is there a lot of modification you have to do to the arrows so they shoot good?
Thanks for your time and input.
God bless.
You won't be sorry if you choose the Beman MFX Classics. Guaranteed.
SaM Do you make your own arrows? There are several good suppliers of tapered cedars, it gets cheaper if you make your own.
I do make my own arrows, do you have any recommendations on witch company?
I am shooting Easton Epics with external aluminum footings and love them. Tought, always straight, and fly like bullets. Carbon is my personal choice. I love making wood arrows and hate straightening them.
Carbons would are my choice.
I tried the grizzly sticks and was not impressed. The sitka's and alaskan's flew well, but broke easier than gold tip traditionals and beeman mfx. I also had problems with the nocks breaking off inside the shaft. And the "made in china" label didn't help.
MFX all the way here. Excellent shaft, and brass inserts are included.
Hey Guys
I have been shooting gold tip expedition hunters all summer they are $30 for a half dozen and I hate to say it shot the cinder block base of my gaurage at least 6 different times and they didnt break, well maybe one did but they are tough cheap and fly great.
I shoot AD (Arrow Dynamics). They are tapered and shoot well out of all my bows by simply changing point weight. They are tough and fly great for me. The taper makes it easy to get good FOC. Several of our sponsors carry them and can advise you on which ones will work best for you.
After trying some carbons (grizzlysticks not among them) I prefer aluminum. The aluminums may bend on bad shots but are usually fixable. I've cracked some carbons from hard impacts and thats that.
It is to bad that aluminum doesn't work anymore, so if anyone has any 1918s that they would like to put to sleep humanely send them to me.
i tried some grizzly sticks they fly and tune well and quiet out of the bow.i was shooting a 50 # bow and the arrows didnt totally pass through,they did the job but brake when the deer run off. i had one come out in one piece but the land owner found it with his disc and ran it over before he could stop!mfx with the same bow and head total (http://i785.photobucket.com/albums/yy138/chopperziggy/093.jpg)ly passed through.
I like my Grizzly stik sitkas. They fly well for me and come in at 610 grains finished using 190 grn Grizzly heads with brass inserts. That's no heavier than my surewood shafts and great FC ratio. I'm not thrilled with 9/32 nocks though. I've had 3 break on me. I did not use the male insert nocks but rather the aluminum glue-in insert with a 9/32 nock glued to that.