I recently bought some snuffer broadheads for the upcoming season along with the sharpening tools to go with it. I saw the sharpening directions on 3rivers website that pertained to the woodsman BH and was planningon following a similar procedure with the snuffers. When the snuffers came the back told how to sharpen them. They said slide the broadhead across a bastard file 20 strokes on all 3 sides and you are ready to go. Anyone else use snuffers and is this all you need to do because that seems like a rough edge that is sharp but maybe not as sharp as it should be. Any imput will be appreciated.
Ganzer
There was a thread about sharpening snuffers and the like earlier. Try doing a search, there is a search link at the top of the threads.
I do not like using a bastard or any other file on a new broadhead--> that is only for something that has been shot and needs the edge broaght back,,,,,,,,,,,, I like to use a KME extra fine hand sharpener (from any hardware store) first until I feel the edge is there and then I go to a ceramic rod sharpener that comes with the simmons sharpener system from simmons but can be bought seperate,,,, so mount the broadhead on the arrow and I do about 10 strokes on each flat side where you lay the sharpener across two edges at once then tuen the broadhead to the next two edges and keep repeating,,, it is VERY IMPORTANT that the sharpener feels like it is just sliding on glass and not really digging in or fileing anything (which means uneven edge) do this on all 3 sides for about a 1/2hr for the first time and it will turn into something you can shave with..... remember take about a 1/16" off the very tip so it doesn't curl as easy.
Thanks I will give it a try tonight when I get home. I have everything but the ceramic rod.
Ganzer
I use the side of my 8 inch grinder- but thats what I have at my disposal.
The first step, regardless of method, is to "true" the edges from the factory. On my wheel I can readily see how unfair the edges are from factory and it takes a good bit (relatively) of material removal to get them fair.
After achieving that you have a chance to get them sharp.
Joshua
Yes, That is a Great way to sharpen them. I Also do that and add stone work and leather strop to the way I sharpen Mine..
the extra fine will work good too just remember apply the same very light pressure on each set of blades,,,,,, I should of noted that if the heads are brandnew you will keep feeling roughness when sharpening until you get that smooth edge,, if you like a tiny bit of roughness on your edges lets say like a baby serations then just go by feel,,, I personally like a polished edge on my 3-blades and I think it bleeds "faster" which means it won't clot up as quick as a rough wound (My theory only) ,,, the flesh wound alone should leave more blood on the ground like a razor cut on your face and that along with the vital hit to me means easier tracking,, my deer leave alot of blood on the ground.
I use the DMT 8 X 10 diamond bench stone in medium to start them off. What I do first is mark each edge with a sharpie black marker so you can see what you aretaking off. Once all the marker is gone you know your edges are even. Once sharp on the medium stone i switch to the fine stone. Once that is done i use cardboard or a old peice of carpet to get the very fine burr off. They come out hair popping sharp.
I use a file and finish lightly on a stone. Works for me.
DMT diamond two sided steel 10", course and xtra fine. It takes about 50 strokes (actually 100 as I count backward and forward) on the course stone on each side to remove the factory grind. Then a few light strokes on teh xtra fine stone, then strop. Hair shaving sharp. This will remove about 8 grains from the head.
I have been using snuffers for a long time, all I have ever done is the prescibed sharpening procedure that on the back. The file method has never let me down!
I used to use the Snuffer Tamer but now use the X Block
Snuffer tamer.
I use the Snuffers and the Woodsmans. I use a file from back to front until I have an edge, then from tip to back on a fine stone and finally drag it from back to tip on a leather strap glued to a piece of wood. The trick is to get rid of the factory machine marks on the edges of the broadhead. For me to sharpen 6 heads it usually takes the same length of time to watch a baseball or football game.
QuoteOriginally posted by jonsimoneau:
Snuffer tamer.
same here.
I have been using a mill bastard file for the last 20 years, after using a butchers stone for the first 10 I used them. Mill bastard with light pressure leaves a fine serrated edge that pops hair and is far superior to a honed edge, as it does not loose it's edge when shot through game and into the ground. I hold the arrow in my left hand and stroke tail to tip, 3-5 strokes them rotate. begin with moderate pressure and after the original grind marks are gone decrease pressure until it is just the weight of file. The snuffer tamer weakens both the edge and the tip. A 160 snuffer sharpened with a mill bastard laying accross 2 edges at once is stronger than anything save maybe a 160 ace standard
Try search option, there are about a bajillion ways and threads on the subject.
Come on Ryan Rothhaar, share your technique again. They just don't get any sharper.