Thought I'd share this as I've tried arrow making like this in the past but wasn't as successful.
This time around went with the insert approach to self nocking. I like this more because you don't have to reinforce the nock end with excess threading which, from my experience, tends to either add too much weight to the arrow and slows it down or causes an imbalance. But this is just my opinion from my own attempts/observation. A more experience cordage expert may be able to achieve good results.
However I have thrown in a few shots of arrows I made with real sinew threading and reinforcement at the nock end.
For the inserts I'm using horn, maple, and yellowheart. I prefer horn because I like the contrast of sleek black against pale cedar.
I seal with a little bit of lacquer particularly at the nock end to seal off the epoxied inserts from environmental impacts (a bad day will be had if and when they come out).
The ultimate end result is to glue on the medieval broad heads using sinew and pine pitch. Not there yet as I'm still waiting on the pine pitch but will post when I am there.
Any comments, questions, concerns, suggestions please let me know as all of this is still in development as to how to approach most effectively. Thanks.
cherp
Nice assortment of tips.
I like the strip of black in the nock too.
Good Luck!
Thanks! Yeah trying to get things just so this time around. These arrows definitely have a rugged look at this point but if they're sturdy and functional then I could careless about overall aesthetics though I did try a bit to make them somewhat pleasing to the eye per green man's manifesto on self nocking:
http://greenmanarchery.blogspot.com/2010/01/nocks.html
I hope my pine pitch and 3 xtra bodkin points arrive today.
Like the reinforced self nock. Very nice work!
Last time I did the reinforce self nock I left a littble bit of the insert on the side and use the raised portion as the index.
I have heard that gasket lacquer does not seal so may change to use ployurethane instead if that was the case.
Ah thanks MM that is good to know. Yeah I'm actually using laquer that is polyurethane based (I believe so at least) that is a specially made by J&M traditions.
http://jmtraditions.com/WebPages/arrowpg.html
Back when I bought it they said I should avoid gasket laquer so I went with what they recommended since they make good arrows. I just slather a little on though with a sponge brush. I don't like really thickly laquered arrows.
Well I have some results below. The good news is they are functional, albeit somewhat slow, but the bad news is I found the combination of sinew and pine pitch produced less then desirable results when used for hafting arrowheads. Case in point, I lost a medieval broadhead already. Part of the problem naturally is what I was shooting into: bales of hay. If using these more traditional adhesives its probably best to reserve shooting your arrows into traditional dirt butts only.
I eventually gave up on the sinew and went back to just my old kim shaw hot melt which for all intended purposes works relatively well, is easy to use, and doesn't weigh down the front end of the arrow too much. Any way here are my photos. I may post more results later.
(http://i1019.photobucket.com/albums/af312/geomjr/pic1.jpg)
(http://i1019.photobucket.com/albums/af312/geomjr/pic3.jpg)
(http://i1019.photobucket.com/albums/af312/geomjr/pic2.jpg)
those arrows are wicked cool.where did you get all those points?did you make them?i am going to try and make my own,but i am just not that talented.great arrows,steve
Thanks Steve. Man I wish I knew more about and had the capabilities to do metallurgy but I don't. You can buy most these points here:
www.sevenmeadowsarchery.com (http://www.sevenmeadowsarchery.com)
I got mine from a guy on **** though in a an auction.
The bodkin point, second arrow from the right, can be purchased in packs of 3 from:
www.3riversarchery.com (http://www.3riversarchery.com)
Hope this helps and if I can do it, so can you.