After years of compound bow shooting I purchased a PSE Impala Take Down Recurve in February. 55#@28". I absolutly love traditional archery now. I have no interest in shooting my compound at all now. Recently I noticed that my limb is twisted. After calling PSE it is under warranty and i will be getting new limbs. PSE told me that the reason that the limb twisted is that my draw length is to long. (I have approx a 31" draw)
Has anyone ever heard of having a draw length to long for a recurve? Im going to buy something different now. Any suggestions on what would fit me better since I have a longer draw? Would a longbow help alievieate the stacking at the longer draw vs a recurve?
I am a newbie and any help I can get would be very much appreciated.
thanks
You need a 66" recurve or longbow, whichever would be your preference. That pretty much puts you in the custom bows to get one that long, unless you want a standard longbow like Martin and Bear offers. Personally, I would recommend something a bit different. Keep your eyes on the classifieds and you may find one that someone is selling. Wes Wallace and Blacktail both offer recurves in that length. They will hit your pocket book though.
Bill
Keith Chastain's Wapiti TD recurve is well suited for long draw.
Wapiti Bows (http://www.worldclassbows.com/)
You are not alone. After completing Rod Jenkin's shooting clinic my draw length opened up to 31 1/2". I put footings on 6 arrows so I could still shoot a wood arrow.
Shop the classifieds and try out bows. I recently spoke to the founder of RER (cant remember his name) and he has a 31" draw or something close. I also know Scott Mitchell of Timberhawk has a draw length longer than 29". These bowyers have long draw lengths in mind when they design a bow. You might find an old 66" target recurve you can dress up for hunting.
I have a 30-31 draw depending on what I wear,and that's why I prefer to shoot a longbow (fit us big and tall guys well).Besides I like the way I look shooting it,its more Robin Hoodish :goldtooth:
The limbs are not twisted because of your long draw. That is not why limbs twist.
You definately need at least a 66 inch recurve or a 68 inch longbow to avoid stacking and finger pinch. I have a long draw length and shoot a 68 inch longbow. No stacking, no finger pinch, and smooth drawing all the way to anchor.
I can highly reccomend Wes Wallace as a bowyer. Tricia and I just stopped by his shop yesterday and put money down on her second royal and I put in an order for my new one as well. His wait time is 7 months on a bow. His bows are worth every penny he asks for them. Every time we visit him I end up picking out new woods I want in another bow.
Howatt Hunters are good out to 31 inches I believe. I draw 30 and no problems. I think Charlie Lamb has a longer draw than mine and he shot a Hunter for years. He would know regardless.
I don't agree you need a 66 inch recurve. Just one that is made for a longer draw. It does not follow that the only design option is a longer bow to accommodate a longer draw. Hunters are 62 inches and just one example. Steve Gorr of Cascade bows told me I could shoot their 56 inch recurve, no problems.
Joshua
I have a draw close to 31" and prefer recurves with lengths from 64".
Margly
I have a 31-32" draw depending on how I shoot. If you want a longer recurve, I shoot a Border Black Douglas. With the right limb/riser combination you can make a 66" bow. They're great bows and you won't regret it.
A friend of mine has a 33" draw and shoots a 64" Bob Lee and a Keith Chastain's Wapiti TD recurve. He just order a A & H take down longbow @ 66".
Dan Toelke has a brand new R/D Long Bow model called the 66 that was created primarily to accomodate long draw archers. you can see one at www.montanabows.com, (http://www.montanabows.com,) click on "current bow inventory". I have not shot one yet but the short story is if Dan Toelke makes it, it will shoot superbly and be beautifully crafted.
I guarantee you that you will not be overdrawing a static EagleWing Talon Recurve in either the 62 or 64 in model. as too the Longbows 66 will work for you if it is built right and if it is a d and r. otherwise the 68 and up. I have pulled the Talon onepice 56 in bow 32 inches without hitting 90 degrees on the string.God Bless You and good luck , Steve To my knowledge no standard bows such as the Bears or Martins will work well for you.
My Dad draws around 34" if he draws full to his face so he snap shoots with a floating anchor around 32" and he shoots a 68" or 70" longbow. I have a friend with a doweling machine make the shafts I use for his arrows extra long. I kind of doubt your draw length twisted the bow but for comfort sake you may want to start shooting something a bit longer.
I draw 32" and have no problems with a well-designed 62" recurve. Chek-Mate Hunter 2s are good, as are Bob Lee takedowns, Black Widow SAs, and TradTech Titans with good limbs.
my turn to chime in here, and at 33"+ of draw, I feel I am more than qualified to discuss options.
I shoot mostly r/d (hybrid) longbows, though sizes are 56" - 68" (yes, I said 56"), and a 62" recurve. No issues with stacking on these bows. I do recommend a longer bow 64" or more as more user friendly, but hard work will allow you to shoot any properly designed bow.
The most important thing I can tell you, is to talk to the bowyer - he knows what his bows can do. If he can't tell you straight up, then pass. There are lots of them that can work for you.
ChekMate, Hill Country, Chise's, Griffen, Shrew, Blacktail, Big Jim's, and on and on and on (please take no offence to anyone not mentioned, there are many more). Some won't, and as said, forget the "classics" or the mass production.
It also doesn't require a mortgage to ge a good bow, just proper homework. You may need to custom order one to your specs as 3# of weight is "typical" for each inch past 28" (if it isn't stacking), and thet may not be a common build weight at the 28" standard.
I have been blessed to find some decent bows, and so will you.
BobW
i posted some things on here about pse when my impala riser blew up..pse will say whatever sounds good to cover their arses.they said i shouldnt use a wood riser for bow fishing..i have a 29 inch draw and mine stacked like no other...you da man
is yourdraw 31 compound or trad
Treat yourself to a bow made for that draw. There are some great options out there. For easy to find or get fast for a new bow a BW PCH 60" will do it. PSA 62" will go more than you need.
I gotta agree with Jason Westbrook and BobW.
I'm also in the 32" or so draw club and bow design is important. I've shot 58" recurves in the 45# at 28" range with no problems. For a smooth all around usable recurve, I like about 62" though I have some in the 66" and 68" range. My buddy had an old Wilson Brothers Widow in 62 inches that pulled like butter but they are scarce. Depending on design, many 62 inch recurves can feel VERY smooth even at 32" draw. As they get longer, design is less critical if looking only for smoothness. I've got two old Root Targetmaster recurves that are 68" long and I can pull a 33" BOP arrow all the way back till it falls off the back of the shelf without it feeling like it stacks. But these are early 50's models with woven glass and no reflex/deflex and performance is only average. Plenty good for sure but not in the "speedy" category.
Now, even though I have a bunch of recurves, I don't really ever use them for hunting. My "go to" bow is a 66" hybrid longbow with quite a bit of reflex/deflex. It too will pull smoothly out to about 34" or so and is a joy to shoot. I've got a 64" mild R/D longbow that stacks at about 29.5 inches and caused me all sorts of trouble with target panic, short drawing and stuff like that. (It was my first bow when I got back into archer as an adult) My brother has the exact same bow in 66" by the same bowyer and it is nice and smooth to my full draw so the extra length made a big difference. In something like a straight or backset longbow like a Hill style or similar, I think I'd have to go out to at least 68" and maybe 70" to get the same smoothness at my draw.
If I were you, I'd look on fleabay for a nice used recurve about 64" long for under $100. You could could look for a used longbow but because longbows weren't massed produced in nearly the numbers that recurves were back in the 50's 60's and 70's they just are not as common and if you find a used one, it will likely be newer, (last 20 years) and will bring a lot higher price than a 70's era recurve.
You will however have a small advantage when buying because of your long draw. You could buy a bow that is marked 40 or 45 pounds at 28" and if you are pulling 32" you would actually be pulling 50 to 60 pounds at your draw. Plenty for hunting! Those old bows are common in the 45lb range. Most people with normal draw lengths feel that is on the light side for a hunting bow so that weight does not bring the premium prices that a "hunting weight" bow of 50+ pounds. You can find them pretty cheap if you don't get in a big hurry
I have a long draw and have been amazed at the Dryad Epic limbs on my Dalla riser. They have no stack to them, they are a static limb, get Mike to explain. They are also really quiet because of the shape and the string hitting a curved rather than flat surface. I think the quiet is real important. I first saw them at a shooting clinic and later got to shoot a friend's. I now have a set with a second set on order.
I should add that i weighed them and they were gaining 2 1/2lbs per inch at 32 inches, same as at about 28. Mike makes and extra long limb that makes a 64 inch bow on my 17 inch riser. It is also short for its length because of it's shape. I have quite a few bows and right now this would be my favorite.
I draw a tad over 32" since I have become smart enough not to be overbowed as far as weight goes, I have both 62" and 64" Bob Lee bows both in recurve and longbow, and they all work beautifully, with no stacking, (I am not sure about that statement when made by anyone, doesn't a bow that increases in weight the more you draw have to stack? Just a thought, anyway these Bob Lees draw as smoothly as any custom bow I have ever had and I have owned and shot alot of custom bows.) I do prefer the 64". I'm pulling between 51 to 59 pounds at my 32" draw with my different Bob Lees, and can tell you that 59 pounds is pushing it for me, I can shoot it, but 55 pounds is much more comfortable, which improves my accuracy and form, If I go beyond the 59, things start to fall apart. Keep that in mind when you choose your next bow. DK.
David. A bow that does not stack will add on approximately the same amount of poundage per inch of draw. A bow that stacks adds on the same to a point and then starts adding more per each inch eventually hitting a wall or a spot where it really jumps up.
Bows with static tips 9depending partly on design as to how they perform) will usually draw much longer in shorter lengths than bows that have working recurves or longbows. That is because the static tip keeps the string angle the same or approximately the same through its draw cycle. It also keeps the string on the limb longer and in the case of the bows I have mentioned almost to full draw. When released the string just rolls back up on the limb without any slap/ That is why they are so quiet. God Bless and I hope this helps explain it , Steve To see the limb design check out my website, Thanks
Thanks for the explanation Sixby, I know I use the statement 'this bow or that bow does not stack' and I see others use it as well, and I always wondered about what you just made clear to me. Thanks again. It is neat to have a place to go where there are so many with such a vast amount of knowledge on each and every aspect of a sport or should I say lifestyle we all love. By the way, now that you explained that, I understand as I have definatly had bows that hit a wall so to speak as far as while drawing. Thanks again. DK.
One thing to remember is that stacking is not inherently a bad thing, more of an annoyance up to a point. More important is finger pinch which can interfere with a clean release.
I am planning to deal with the finger pinch issue by switching to shooting 2 fingers under after hunting season is over.
I like a very deep hook and with that 2 fingers seems to be lots up to about 50 pounds.
Get on fleabay and buy yourself a nice Bear Polar or Damon Howatt Ventura for between a hundred and a hundred and fifty dollars. I shoot both at 30 inches and they are great bows.
DDave
DDave
I have a long draw as well 30 1/2" not as long as some that have posted.
I have a RER 62" Static tip XR recurve that draws smooth no finger pinch and is wicked fast, 57# shooting 615 grain arrows. I can draw this bow back to my ear before I find any stacking.
I have shot some of the shorter hy-bred longbows that have worked as well.
You have gotten great advice in the above posts and anythig I could add is just a repeat of what has been said. The one thng that does bare repeating however is call the bowyer.
I draw 32" with a recurve and 30.5-31" with a longbow depending on the grip. Bow design has a lot to do with how comfortable they are to shoot. For recurves the Bruin Bows by Mike Steliga are the nicest I've found for my long draw. I shoot a 60" T/D and it works great. With straight limbed longbows I like a 68-70" bow and for R/D longbows and hybrids, 62" is about as short as I like.