My package of WW came in the mail today even though they were only ordered 3 days ago. Props to Tim Harms of Braveheart Archery for such fine service.
I read everything I could find here on TG about sharpening them. I have a file, tri stone and sharpie on hand.
I will sharpen the 1st one and see how it goes. I can get a 2 blade Magnus wicked sharp, lets see if I can do the same with the ww.
I have used some broadheads ike woodsmans, snuffers, and never got an edge like I was used to getting on a 2 or 4 blade. It still works well when shaving sharp, just not what I have been used to.
I can get a 2 blade so sharp it will cut your eye if you look at the edge!
Well after an hour I don't have much to show for my effort. They have somewhat of an edge but nothing I would hunt with.
This is kind of like learning to sharpen with a file. Took me awhile to figure it out but I finaly did it. Guess it will be the same with the WW.
I found the trick to be in the technique. Use your sharpie to mark the edges, file or sand till the edges are even, making sure not to use too much pressure, once all edges are filed such that your marker lines are gone, polish with your fine stone, again making sure to not use much pressure.
Through trial and error, I found that using too much pressure on the file made it impossible to get a sharp edge along the entire blade and too much pressure on the stone likewise killed the edge.
I also found that a diamond rod with very light pressure was the best for me after using the file. Again, very light pressure.
Keep at it, you can get them sharp.
Is this the original or the elite?
The elites are a cinch as the bevels come level....if its the originals, it take a lot of file work...or what I use, a belt sander to 1st get all the bevels level....then a 3 sided jewel stick does the trick. I've had great sucess with them from bunnies to hogs to bison...and great blood trails on the hogs let me tell ya!
They are the originals Terry.
I have worked on the head a little more and now it is shaving but also doing a lot of pulling hair. I actually spent maybe 10 minutes on the head this time and it is taking shape. I believe I am getting the hang of it and will develope a better edge with pratice.
I'm using a flat file to get the edge established. Then 30 strokes on each side with light pressure then 20 then one stroke on each side unti I have completed 30 strokes per side.
I found this info while searching for sharpening snuffers and thought it would work with the WW as well so I gave it a try.
Next I honed on a fine AR stone and finished up with stropping on a piece of cardboard.
I think I about have it licked. More technigue than anything else as best as I can figure so far.
I also have the older ww,they did take some effort to get a good edge ,but I like to play around sometimes just to pass the time.I haven't taken any game with them yet,but they they fly straight.They will be in my quiver this season.
I have always done my like Mr Lamb. Show you in his clip that way my dad show me to sharpen 3 blade head years ago. Work great watch the clip and use a sharpie on the edge to show your if the it flat. Good luck ray
like Terry said with the beltsander. Take a black Marker and mark the edges so you can see how much to go to get her flat. Once you are flat its easy. ron
What grit sand paper are you all using on the belt sanders?
Since I do not have a belt sander,I use a large 16" file, magic marker and cardboard. Usually start with 15 strokes, (back to front with the BH mounted on the shaft.) per side. Doing two blades at one time. Then I go to 10X per side, then 5,4,3,2,1 per side. Once I get to one I make another 20 strokes/side getting lighter with each passing stroke.
This usually gets me VERY sharp, shaving hair with no problem.
Recently here on TG I learned about stroping with a piece of corrugated cardboard. Pulling the head backwards 12X per side.
Now my WW are scary sharp!! I have never gotten a head so sharp!
I am keeping them in the garage b/c they are too dangereous to have in the house!
chris <><
I went from dull to almost hunting sharp and now back to an edge like a butter knife. I don't have a belt sander so I have to use a file. Maybe after a good night's sleep I can hit it again and figure something out. Time to watch Charlie Lamb's video again before I call it a night.
Pac, check out 3 Rivers Archery. They also have a video showing how to sharpen a WW.
I don't use there Jewelstik, b/c for me it seem to take a razor sharp head and dull it.
A piece of cardboard works better for me.
chris <><
Belt sander to get all the edges true, Large high quality metal file pusing head into the teeth equal number of strokes on each side and decreasing the number of strokes and pressure as I go. Finally I push each side over a butchers steel a couple of times using no downward pressure. Everytime before I hunt I run them over the steel again to touch up. When I use an imntermediate step like a shrpening stone I end up dulling the blade as compared to when it comes straight off the file.
QuoteOriginally posted by Onions:
I don't use there Jewelstik, b/c for me it seem to take a razor sharp head and dull it.
chris <><
I hear ya....and this is what I bet is happening with that jewel stick.....when the head 'feels' sharp it still has burs on it...and if you use the finest side of the jewel stick...it polishes them off so it doesn't feel sharp....but bet your pippy it is!!! That's one reason I use the medium side only, so I can still 'feel' the sharpness.
I promise you, if you have all the edges level, light dragging across a jewel stick will not make the head duller.
I think "Camolaw" said it best (and probably what's happening).
Light, light, light on the file. Let it do the work. Any three blade will want to spread the blades apart with too much pressure. Since that spreading can't be duplicated exactly from stroke to stroke, it makes the edge rounded and therefore not as sharp it needs to be to start.
Using the right technique the broadhead should be just fine to hunt with right off of the file process. After that point you are just refining the edge and need to know when to stop.
Usually just a few light passes on your hones and strops will do the job, then leave it alone.
Just understand they will never "feel" as sharp as a 2 blade because of the different angle on the blade, but they will cut meat and leave Great bloodtrails!
Got a big bald spot on my arm but had to press down fairly hard. If I had pressed that hard with my 2 blade I'd be getting stitches right now.
It's getting there but I have to wonder if I will know when it is sharp enough since it feels dull but still shaves hair with enough pressure.
I am new to the Woodsman Elites and I know what you are saying they shave hair but do not feel sharp. I am using stones I do not have any files but the stones work good I have been kicking around getting a diamond stone to speed things up some. Has anyone used the diamond stones? I am planning to use them on elk this year I did penetration test with them and I was impressed. Widow
Is the file new and sharp or dull? The new files move material way faster! Belt sander use with caution, but will get job done lickety split!
I have had great success using the Charlie Lamb method of sharpening WW heads. His video is in the archives here on TG. Once sharp, the WW heads are the easiest head to touch up that I have ever used. Are the Woodsman Elites as good as the originals?
I haven't had any of these in hand, but I can sharpen about any knife wicked sharp with benchstones. Why wouldn't you just get a big DMT diasharp plate, lay broadhead on it and push the point away sharpening 2 edges at a time. Is the angle you get from that too steep? The woodsman seems like it would be simple to sharpen.
With knives I have 20 or 30 stones of various types, but I 99% of the time I use a large coarse diasharp plate, and the largest DMT duosharp in fine/extra fine followed by a strop. It's possible to get a knife sharper than I get mine, but unnecessary unless you want to whittle spiderwebs.
Terry, Good thoughts on the jewelstik. Unfortunately I sold my jewelstik, so I can not try
chirs <><
Had the same experience with the older WW heads, takes a bit of work to get the initial angle trued up. The new ones are not an issue at all.
I finish them up across a jewel stick as well, and as mentioned above they be sharp.
They will never have that Oh my God don't touch it sharp feel that you can get on a 2 blade head. It is a function of the edge angle or so I believe.
They are hunting sharp they just have different feel to the edge. The best part is they zip through deer, leave great blood trails (you can slip in it kind of a blood trail) and those blood trails are not long.
Where can I purchase the 3 sided jewelstick?
I'm on day #6 with the same head. I have read and watched everything I can find to sharpen these heads but no luck getting them sharp at all. They do make good backscratchers though. No fear of cutting myself while scratching.
I just don't understand how I can sharpen a 2 blade with a file or stone and get them so sharp and I can't get these sharp enough to even think about using them for hunting.
I do want to thank everyone that has tried to help. I haven't given up yet. I'm going to go buy another file in a few minutes and see if that helps any at all.
I really want to use these heads.
im right there with pac, I cant get them to cut butter!! but they fly better than anything ive ever used. I dont get it.
what was the point of selling a dull BH in the first place????
I think I got it! :goldtooth:
Yeah, I use a 12" Nicholson mill file & just push point forward - rotate - point forward - rotate - point forawrd till I get all my bevels the same, then I use a 8K stone the same way to smooth out that edge then lastly I'll use a old leather belt too to strop them.
As has been pointed out, you are limited on the angle a 3-blade head can be sharpened. If I remember my geometry, the sum of the angles of an equilateral triangle(what a 3 blade is) is 180 degrees, or 60 degrees each. The actual double bevel blades would bisect these angles, giving you the potential to sharpen to 30 degrees at best. For those familiar with Lansky & KME sharpening systems, you'll know 30 degrees is a coarse edge option (not very acute). 2 blade heads can be sharpened at 20 degrees or less depending on the size of the ferrule and that edge will feel sharper although will not be as durable due to the "thinner" edge. The WW will work fine, just hope this helps explain the difference in "feel".
dull files are like dull knives, they just do not work. Files do wear out.
Glad to see your efforts are becoming more fruitful towards sharpness!
Take care.
Once sharp I found the WW head to be easy to touch up in the field with a small, fine tooth file and very light pressure. Well worth the effort. A very good 3 blade head.
all right pac, im going to lowes tomorrow at lunch to get a new file. we will see how it turns out tomorrow night.
Caleb I sent you a pm. Just a little while ago I took another (3rd) head out of the package and did my routine. I took note of the time when I did the 1st stroke and had it cutting hair in 14 minutes. Still not as sharp as I have got the otehrs but I'm sure it will be in just a few more minutes.
14 minutes Wow! Compared to 6 days of trying I'm happy.
PAC,
Post a video of your prowess, I am somewhat challenged in getting my WW & Snuffers sharp too. Great thread!
Regards,
Barry