Okay so i got a new to me Howatt "the stick" 55# at 28 inch draw.(my draw is about 28.5) Until now I have only shot compound bows. I knew that my easton axis 340's were probably not spined correctly for this setup but seeing that i didn't have any other arrows i decided to try and shoot it just a few times anyway. First few shots kicked terrible because of the vanes on the arrows(i knew that i needed feathers but had no practical way to get any in a timely manner so i decided to shoot the bow bare shaft at 10 yards. I can actually hit a 8 inch circle 9 out of 10 times with a bare shaft at 10 yards but every single time the shaft is sticking out of the target at an angle, nock right. What does this mean? Also I have a dozen easton axis 500's on the way fletched with 4 in. trueflight feathers. Should these arrow fly better, is this a typical spine for my setup? I know this is a lot of info but any help or advice would be appreciated.
Nock right mean stiff if you have a good target. Best to do is move back to 15 yards then 200 and see if the groups start moving to the left, then you'll know they're stiff. 500s will be ******line at best but I'm guessing they'll be a touch weak. You'll most likely need 400s.
I think vermonster means 20 yards i am assuming you are rt handed rt knock would be stiff. Depending on how much rt you might try a heavier tip this will weaken spine and give you more foc weight.
I can shoot a .340 arrow like that off a 55# recurve but only with 400 grs on the front end and cut to 30".
Your .500's should be much closer if you are using 125 gr or so,heads.
Thanks for the help guys! Was also wondering wich way i turn the cock feather?
Some folks shoot cock feather in; most have it out.
:readit: http://www.acsbows.com/sitebuildercontent/sitebuilderfiles/tuninglongbowsandrecurves.pdf
:archer2:
This site is a good resource, thanks for the info.
The 340's are way too stiff. The vanes actually shouldn't affect your arrows flight because if spined correctly then the arrow should bend around the shelf, but that's a whole other topic.
Try this link. It'll help get you close if not right on.
http://heilakka.com/stumiller/
If you are bare shafting get some different weight field points, 75-175 grn. Adding wieght should weaken the arrow (less nock right) and less wieght the opposite. Kinda helps reinforce the idea ;)