I have some 50gr brass inserts and GT 35/55 shafts. The inserts do not fit into the shaft like my aluminum ones they are looser. What glue should I be using? I keep having them pull out when shooting my 3d target. I am using 2 part apoxy now.
I use a AAE or Devcon 2-part 24 hr. epoxy with aluminum and brass inserts.But the key with any insert install is to properly prep both the arrow shaft and insert.I'll etch or scratch the inside of the shaft,and scratch up the insert with sandpaper.Then I clean everything with alcohol and then epoxy them in.What kind of two part epoxy are you using,the 24 hr. slow cure is stronger then the 5 minute epoxy.I have never lost an insert with this method,brass or aluminum.I also with my brass insert is to fit them to my shaft,somestimes they have a lip over the outside.I'll mount them on a point in my drill and spin them and file the lip so it is flush with the outside diameter of the shaft.Helps make for easier target removal and I can scratch up the insert easy.Works for me.
I use steel force works good but dont plan on taking them out.
I like gorilla glue
Use J.b. weld but under no circumstance use powerbond. Powerbond and other glues seem to be indestructable but are too fragile and brittle when it comes to constant and violent collisions (archery).
I don't use epoxy anymore.
I shoot carbons and if you ever have to remove the inserts its WAY more trouble than its worth in added adhesion.
I use the hot melt glue sold for archery and have never had an insert bond fail.
I still use epoxy for the footings though.
I think if your inserts are pulling out now using epoxy the issue is either fit or a clean bonding surface. Epoxy is not in general a filling type of bonding agent, unless it has a structural filler additive such as jb weld or similar.
Joshua
Gorilla glue, havnt lost any inserts since I started using this.
Gorilla glue for me
JB weld :thumbsup:
JB Weld for me too. A 270 (I think?) bore brush in my drill w/ acetone/ clean with a q-tip until it comes out white, wipe down insert or adapter w/ acetone also. JB Weld them in and let set. I have also used the same cleaning method and used hot melt, the stuff for a glue gun (wal-mart)with good results.
Same as jhb, never had one come out. You can heat the point and take them out with no problem.
QuoteOriginally posted by Buckwheaties:
JB Weld for me too. A 270 (I think?) bore brush in my drill w/ acetone/ clean with a q-tip until it comes out white, wipe down insert or adapter w/ acetone also. JB Weld them in and let set. I have also used the same cleaning method and used hot melt, the stuff for a glue gun (wal-mart)with good results.
This is how I did my first batch of carbons a few weeks ago. With the hot melt. No insert failures. The guy at the local wheel bow shop told me flat out they wouldn't stay in. They use fast set gel fletching glue.
jb weld. the only thing is you will NEVER get them out.
i saw a new gorilla glue today. it's a rubberized glue for impact use.is that what you gorilla glue users use?
When at Compton talked with Big Jim he uses a hot melt that stays pliable when it cools said does his customer arrows with it and has not a failure since going to it. I got some from him it work very well. I like the ability to change insert weight if needed. The process he explained to me does not apply much heat to shafts.
I use the slow set marine grade epoxy with good results. If you need to pull the insert at some point, just screw in an old field point and apply heat to it until the epoxy gets soft, then pull out the insert using pliers on the field point. The shaft won't get too hot as long as you keep trying to pull on the field point after applying some heat, and then add heat repeatedly until the glue gets just soft enough to allow the insert to be removed. If you start boiling the epoxy with heat, it will also heat up the shaft enough to cause damage. I don't pull inserts from shafts very often, so there has not been any problem with repeated heating of the ends of my shafts. I have never had a problem with the end of the shaft being damaged by heat, although many people will condemn this process as being too damaging on shafts. It isn't if done properly and infrequently. Hot melt works well too, but it can get brittle and fracture if you hit hard surfaces with your arrows. I like the idea of the pliable hot melt that Dean Lintz says Big Jim uses, but I have no experience with it. Marine epoxy is MUCH stronger and is not as brittle as the fast set epoxy. It has never failed me, although just about every other adhesive I have used to glue in inserts has failed at some time or another.
Allan
I don't apply any heat to the shaft when using hot melt. Just heat up the insert good (usually brass) apply hot melt to insert, fan glue a little with the way out portion of the butane torch flame and shove it home. Use a f/p when installing and spin and adjust while still hot if necessary (usually not) and let air dry, no water dunk. just my method, always get good results, never have anything come apart in foam or stumping..
I'm not 100% on this, but I think that GT's are .246 ID and the brass inserts are .243 OD.
You may have a hard time with them. Hap
I don't know the diameters in the shafts or the brass inserts but they fit my GT's perfectly.
I have a buddy at GT and I asked him what is the best way to glue in the brass because I myself have had may pull out. He said that there is no sure way to glue them in. There is something in the shaft that doesn't allow for a strong bond. He also said if you scratch up the inside dia of the shaft it can cause it to fail. He said they have heard that the best way is to clean both the insert and inside of shaft and then use the hot melt. I have tried all the above and in many ways and I still have tips pull out. I shoot a heavy poundage bow but I don't think that is the problem either. GT says it is but I think it is the shafts. He said they are working on either a new glue or changing the shaft to aid in this problem. I have found that marine grade epoxy is about the best for me but still have had a few pull. Good luck..
I use hot glue applied with a glue gun. And I put the points on top of a quartz lamp first to get them real hot. You have to hold them longer till the glue sets up but they never come out (till you heat them a few seconds with a zippo).
But for hunting I think the arrow would be stronger with HEAT SET epoxy. After I tried heat setting 24 hour epoxy I wouldn't think of using epoxy without some heat to set it. Yes even on carbon arrows, just hot enough that you can't hold your finger on the arrow will do. 24 hour epoxy will be rock hard in about ten minutes and bomb proof.
I have a friend that makes glueless inserts, they never come out unless you want them to. He has a patent on them. Only problem is trying to make them cheap enough to sell.
Wow.. Thanks for all the responses.
I use JB Weld...6 hr cure on my brass inserts for my AD Trad Lites. Never had them move or come out.
Also used brass inserts on some Bear Metric Magnums that I wanted to weaken up, JB Weld all the way.
IS there a brand name of that glue?
Hot melt is the way to go. Just be careful with direct heat on the carbon.
I have glued many inserts (1000's ++++)in with the quick stick hot glue sold by many companies including us. If there has been an insert pull out of any of those shafts, I have not heard about it. I did however have call backs on inserts that were installed with the cyacrilic style glue. Most of these have been into gold tips. That includes brass and aluminum inserts.
I use the quick stick on all of our shafts including my personal arrows being shot from bows ranging from 80#'s to 90#'s and never ever having one pull out!
good luck, bigjim
I prepare my carbon shafts by polishing with a brass bore brush mounted on a drill that I got at Sinclair reloading products and then clean with alcohol. Then JB weld, never had a head come out. Just did a dozen with Bohning insert Iron glue that is heat reverseable, we will see.
I've had good results in the past with both epoxy and super glue gels, but have been using AMG's new hot melt for carbons for about a year. Works great and is easily reversible if needed. They call it Super 735.
AMG Super 735 at Braveheart Archery (http://www.braveheartarchery.us/new_page_23.htm)
What about the amber hot melt for wood arrows and glue-on heads?
I think it's too brittle.
Hot melt is all I have ever used or need to use. I don't have problems with them coming out unless I want them out. On Beman shafts I just glue them in. On GT's I have to take a rat tail file or similar items and scuff up the inside real well. Those GT shaft have a really slick surface in them. I have wiped them down with different stuff to clean them, but in the end really needed to abrade the inside.
Wally World hot glue. Never had one come out.
JB Weld. Use the drill bit and swing trick to knock them out. The epoxy and hot melts I used in the past cost me a few inserts. Usually in the cold.
I've used hot melt glue ever since I started shooting carbon arrows more than 12 years ago and haven't lost one yet. I do take the tome to properly prep both the insert and inside of the shaft.
I just picked up some club makers epoxy from a local golf shop. I've heard good things about it and makes sence as it's used for repeated violent impacts. I've always used JB weld and never had an issue except one, and I think it was prep work. Didn't do any on that half dozen. The next batches all had the insides scored and wiped with alcohol along with the inserts and none pulled. I'm very hard on arrows. When people ask about my footing, I usually show them the effects by shooting a arrow into a rock or other hard stationary object to prove they don't break. Still going strong.
I use the Kimsha quick stick hot melt (Thanks to Big Jim)...I primarily shoot GT's and have yet to have an insert come out after using the quick stick hot melt. I have used Bohning Ferrl Tite, and other glues and have had point/inserts come out of my carbons. I'll have to agree with Big Jim in that I have not had an insert/point failure since unsing the hot melt. Good luck.