Not sure if this is in the right place but I hope it is.
I had some 29.5 in. 2016's with 175 gr. up front that were flying pretty good from what I could tell out of my 50# Lost Creek NAT (I draw 28 in). I hear so much about bareshafting and tuning your arrows to your bow, I decided to go ahead and try it to see how my arrows flew. When I stripped the feathers off one and let it go, they sucked! They were impacting way right with nock left every time.
Now here's where I'm not sure if I screwed up or not, I thought the impacting right meant weak, correct? Stu Millers calculator says I should be shooting 28.5 in. arrows and my dynamic spine is nearly equal. So, I shortened them a half inch, still too weak, another half, and a bit better. I cut all my arrows to that length and they still fly pretty good, but the bareshafts still hit right.
Am I missing something here? Or am I overthinking this stuff again? Is Stu's calculator usually pretty accurate?
Thanks! Sorry for the long post. :banghead:
Your bare shafts will still hit right. When bareshaft tunning..most people prefer to have them hit just a bit right (nock to the left for a right-handed shooter). The reason is that your fletching will stiffen them up. I have bare shaft tuned until my bare shafts flew perfect. Then when I put fletching on them they would hit to the left (indicating they are too stiff) Now..if you can...shoot 2 or 3 bare shafts with 2 or 3 fletched shafts at the same length, point wieght, etc. If the bare shafts are still hitting to the right of your fletched shafts, then cut ALL the shafts down a little more, or add more point weight to ALL the shafts. Keep doing this till they all group fairly close together (it is O.K. if the bareshafts group a tad to the right of the fletched shafts). When your fletched shafts and bare shafts group fairly close together (within 3 inches or so at 20 yards if you have good form), then you are good to go. Fletch them up and have a ball. If you are an experienced shooter, and have pretty good form...you can move further back from the target and repeat the whole process and fine tune them even more.
By the way...I have never found bare shaft tunning to be necessary when shooting aluminum shafts. The charts can generally get you very close, and aluminums have a very wide range of sizes and spine. Carbons are a whole 'nother game!
If they are hitting right and you are right handed your arrow is showing weak. Our setups are almost identical. I shoot 51@ 28" & my arrows are also 2016s at 29.5" long. The only difference is my tips are 125 gr.
I find bareshaft tuning to be very helpful with my 2016s. I can shoot from 25 yards with a stripped arrow and can see the arrow fly straight and true until just before impact. Just before it hits I can see it turn ever so slightly point right or just a tad weak. Add feathers and the arrows are good to go. By bare shaft tuning I know my arrows are flying at the absolute best that I can get them.
There are 3 ways to make your arrows show stiffer. Either reduce point weight, build the strike plate out or shorten the arrow. You can also increase the brace height but to me that is fine tuning after one or more of the other options have gotten you pretty close.
I use Stu Millers calculator to get a starting point but what I see on the calculator and what I end up with have not been identical yet. It's a great tool to get started with though and I'm glad it's available.
Sounds like too much point weight for those arrows but I could be wrong, maybe go with 125's?. :dunno: