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Main Boards => PowWow => Topic started by: Terry Green on July 30, 2010, 10:32:00 AM
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I put down a lot of boot leather, but I have some of the public spots I like to access that have had gates put up due to the economy and less patrol I suppose.
I walk a long way from the truck to start with, and now its gonna add an hour to hour and a half to get to some of these spots.....and that's gonna keep me out of them this fall on my weekday late afternoon hunts. That means I WONT be able to hunt some of those spots cause I can't get there in time....SO......
I have been intrigued ever since seeing Cory Mattson on his bike with a porker strapped on the rack. And I think this might be the ticket.
I'm sure you could spend a small fortune on a bike if you wanted to, or were really into mountain bikes.....but I sure don't want to go 'whole hog' - pardon the pun.
Anyone know much about Mountain Bikes and how much a good durable bike would cost?.....I guess this is normal...I'm looking for SMOOTH riding most of all, easy gear changing, and maneuverability/agility. Cargo rack for a Pack and definitely a light on the front cause I'll reach the bike way after dark.
Oh...I've seen some with front shock absorbers...do they also come with rear shocks? How about a front rack as well as a rear.
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I've been buying a $100 wallyworld model EVERY year Terry. I'm ready to spend a little more next time and hopefully get more use out of it. I think you will probably have to accessorize it with after market racks. I have an old child carrier frame that I built a platform on for the back cargo. Maybe find you one at a yard sale cheap.
(http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o203/Apex-Predator/8-18-08-1.jpg)
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Here is the bike I currently use...it has done real well for me. Basically it is a good entry level bike.
It comes with the front suspension fork but not rear. When you start getting into the suspension in the rear price goes up for the most part.
Racks can be bought separately. I have not looked into a front rack but do have a rear on mine.
http://www.giant-bicycles.com/en-US/bikes/model/rincon.black/3873/36247/
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Terry
You can go 1 or 2 ways
1)I not sure how much different in GA but here in MI on craigslist you can get when new $500-700 mountain bikes that will last a long time whatever you do to em for $200-350 bucks. Giant, Trek Specialized.
2) buy the cheapo $150-200 wally world model that will not last as long.
You want front shocks for certain and they do make a full suspension bike with rear suspension.
The full suspension (which I have) is good and bad
good over bumpy stuff I and my equipment is not jolted as much.
Bad - harder to get going some momentum lost in the suspension, not as many solid mounting options if you attach a deer cart or remodel a child carrier to a huntin cart versus the solid rear frame.
Hope this helped some.
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Here is a link for racks.
http://www.oldmanmountain.com/Pages/BikePages/Pages/MainBikes.html
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I would look into a pull behing cart like they use for kids, they have large wheels and pull easy. You could pull out your game alot easier then on a bike rack.
Terry
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These may be kind of expensive, but they are bar none one of the best ways I have found to haul a significant amount of weight on a mountain bike:
http://www.xtracycle.com/cargo-bicycles/freeradical-cargo-bicycle.html
It allows you to convert almost any standard mountain bike to a long wheelbase with a fairly substantial area for hauling goods and game. All you need to do is find a good mountain bike, preferably steel framed, which can be had for $100. Purchase the conversion kit, and away you go.
I love hunting with a mountain bike. It gives me the ability to haul what I need to, and still be quiet and enjoy nature.
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Here is what the full suspension looks like and the one I have but mine is black.
http://riverfrontcycle.com/images/library/large/giant_canyon_05_m.jpg
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I usually find a good bike at a Pawn Shop. Be sure you know what you want, when shpponig at the Pawn Shop. Couple years ago I picked up a matched pair of Mtn. Bikes for a little over $100.00. They were in excellent shape. Added a rear rack, front removable basket,I added baloon tires(help in grass and sand) and a BIG SEAT!
(those small racing seats are very uncomfortable)Couple cans of dull paint to camo, and you're set to go.
Just remember, if you're hunting public land, a chain and lock are a good idea. I also carry an orange piece of plastic to cover the game when headed out. If its too big to tie on the rack, you can drape it over the whiole bike and walk beside it. Lots of different ways to do it. I have also used a tye of travois.
Happy Hunting.
JAG/Johnny
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Terry,
When it comes to bikes it is sorta like bows... They're made outta the same stuff...
Some you get much nicer stuff... I'd say just look for decent quality in the derrailers (the gear changing gizmos) and components... That and the wheels are what break... Oh some have a shock in the seat post which is much cheaper than rear suspension... But I would just opt for the cheapest one with decent components...
I use my bike to get from point A to point B over fire roads on WMA's... My bike is 10 years old... But then serious bikers ride their bikes twice as much in a month as I do in a year...
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Yes good info presented here. Hey that pic is Sam on his bike - cheap model. I use one often and the last one was a $500 model my wife bought - it was stolen. I use bikes a lot for urban hunt access too. I would spend 500 again though - excellent bike - i do not know the brand - but a quality bike holds up - Blackbeard, Mounatins, our hog lease, and thru the neighborhood. Inexpensive works too most of the time - on Blackbeard there are usually dozens of bikes that are junk yard fixed up spary painted black. Funny story - one time Matt Quick calls me up and says "hey that using a bike is deadly I used Sam's bike and got into hogs all afternoon and killed one" ???? and after a minute and a few questions - I realized he used my bike!!! - hey tires and pressure are better when used often.
One more thing - I usually DO NOT use the bike to bring game out. Tires are set for 220# (me and a loaded pack) - a deer or hog would be too much extra weight - not with Sam though since he shoots small pigs - anyway I go back with an ATV, Truck - on Blackbeard the managers pick em up - for wilderness areas I would take and empty freaightor pack - use this to carry the deer or hog and walk the bike out - thats how we do it.
Thanks <><
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Terry, there is good info here for sure. I second the Craig's list option -- for a hunting bike there is really no sense in spending big money, but a cheapo will show it's wear'n'tear much quicker -- especially in gear changing. Get a good mid-level bike like a Trek or something that's in that $500 range when new. There are generally ton's for sale on Craig's list. The racks will have to be aftermarket and the light also. I'd look for dual shocks if possible, just to get any added shock absorption for your bow, etc when riding.
I second the cart option, if your terrain allows for it. Hauling much weight at all on a rack will really throw your balance off and make riding a pretty difficult task. We used to pull bike carts into Cranberry Wilderness area in West Virginia for a week long pack-in fishing trip. You can haul a lot of stuff on the carts. We made ours ourselves out of some simple materials and they worked fine for us.
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Terry, I dealt with the same issue last year and found this to be a quiet, effective way to get to where I wanted to hunt...With a little tinkering and using what I had around the house, I have a total of $20 (pawn shop) in this bike...
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v612/Bowlovingman/huntingbike.jpg)
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Like Marty I`ve used Bikes from Walmart and they worked great. A flat "bed" to strap your pack on the rear works well with a small basket in the front. Carry something to repair or air up a tire and your in business. Also a way to carry your bow. Your hands must be free for a long haul. Marty and I bike to some of the same places and one of them is a 4 mile 1 way run.Its gated up and an atv to retrieve game is not an option.A field quartered critter divided up between front rack and back " bed" and a pack on your shoulders is not bad at all.
Biggest thing I like is I`ve camped and made the 8 mile trip on foot packing out a critter on my back and was dead afterward.Everyone else hunted and I went to the pier and fished the next day..lol. After using the Bike I could make the trip twice in one day and hunt 3 days in a row and be tired but not beat down.
Jeff Holchin and I were hunting once using our bikes....the only two people on maybe 20,000 acres and I ran into him and we crashed...funniest thing you ever saw.
I think Marty told me about and experience he had with a "cart" on a bike. It wasn`t good.RC
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Thanks Guys.....keep it coming. I am going to buy new, from a local family owned buis......didn't know about the seat shock....sound better, and a lighter way to go than a rear shock. I wont be on real mt bike trails often at all....but more gated service roads with maybe a tail or two here and there. Most of the trails where I hunt are foot traffic only.
The 'bob trailer' I found would make a great asset if you wanted to set up a base camp.....
Bob Trailer (http://www.bobgear.com/trailers/)
Thanks to all...but keep it going.
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I have been looking into this too. I have found from talking with guys that you do give up comfort if you go full mountain bike. I am going to be riding mine mostly on logging roads behind gates..no off road stuff. So I think you can go with a more standard bike, maybe a front shock, with the standard handle bars and a nice seat. If I had to ride for miles with having to lean over onto those mountain bike "T" handle bars I'd walk!
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Another thing to look in to is the baby carrier that hooks to the bike. You can load that up with some stuff and also use it to carry out game.
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I've had this Mongoose for 15 years. I use it on closed roads to access elk areas in 15-20 minutes compared to 45-60 minutes on foot. I zip tie a plastic milk crate on the back rack to keep my pack off my back.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v117/treekiller/downsized_0717001200.jpg)
There's an outfit on the Oregon coast that builds a really nice trailer that attaches to the bike under the seat. They were selling for $400 or so the last time I heard.
Here's a link for the game carts I mentioned above..
http://www.hawkeyebilt.com/
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This is what I mean.
(http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/51tOcr26cxL._SL160_.jpg)
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Terry,
I used to ride (now I'm more of a roadie) and somewhat race Mnt. Bikes and I worked in a bike shop for a year while in graduate school. You CAN spend a small fortune... but I think your best bet is to go to a local bike shop. Find the OWNER and tell him/her exactly what you are looking for and what reasonable price range you want to spend. With bikes, like bows, you often get what you pay for. If you buy garbage made for the big box, it will fail you. Here are a couple of things you want to tell them you want: full suspension, disc breaks, STI gearing by Shimano. If at all possible, I recommend carbon fiber framing. This will cost more, but it will be the last frame for a bike you will ever buy. And it will absorb alot of the shock of the ride, saving you undue fatigue when riding and hunting.
Here are some companies I think make outstanding bikes:
Kona (Hawaii, USA)
Cannondale (CT, USA)
Jamis (Korean as I recall)
Giant (not certain)
Kona specialize in off road bikes and make a pretty serious full suspension ride. Guys who down hill race (that is heading straight down a mountain) ride those. Cannondale can be a bit expensive, but its what I ride and they are super solid, made in USA. Jamis is a good bike, but cheaper as it is foreign made.
Oh, one thing to look for in frame quality, check the welds. The smoother the welds (less beading, dripping, etc...) the better the frame is constructed.
PM me if you have any other questions... I am happy to help!
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Terry, whats the terrain like, flat, hilly, bumpy,that would make a difference in what you want. If there are access roads you can ride on, the suspension isnt needed, & you will get a smoother ride. One thing I like is a medium agressive tread tire. I ride a Jamis(mine is about 7-8 years old & made in USA) during turkey season & about 1/2 is thru fields & trails, & 1/2 on access roads. I found I didnt like the suspension system & did better with out. Go down to the bike store & ride a few to see what you like. Mike
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I have a bright yeller Mongoose. Wonder if Big Jim can camo-dip it? :)
I use mine to get into farms where I don't want people to know I am there except the landowner. It works great for those fellas who keep tabs on me to trespass on farms I am not hunting. I park at one farm and pedal a couple miles down the road to the next spot. Don't know if it works or not but it puts me into places that are hard to walk into. I always tell the landowners if they see my truck or a butt-ugly yellow mountain bike it's me and I'm hunting! Anything else then call the Warden :)
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http://www.bobgear.com/trailers/
These are great!
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A couple of years ago I bought a 'Montana Scapboard'.
This is a device that attaches to the back wheel of the bike and carries your bow in an upright position.
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I just bought a Mongoose, 24 speed, mountain bike with disc brakes, front and rear suspension, easy change gears, for less than 300 bucks from walmart.
Perfect
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I am not advocating trailers, but... If anyone of you find a bike trailer like this... call me!!! (http://bikehugger.com/2009/05/pedal-pale-ale.html)
You could always do the Ho Chi Minh trail special and load the deer atop the bars set and rear rack.. or just quarter em out... Google it and see images... (many are on other boards.. and I don't think i can link to those...)
I wonder about this one bow scabbard (http://www.montanascabbards.com/index.php)
I usually just strap my bow to the outside of my pack or use a 3pc recurve... I have seen guys attach med sized rubbermaid garbage cans to the rear racks of their bikes to throw their hunting/fishing gear into.... but can't find any pics... I want to use a milk crate over the front wheel, but need to do some engineering...
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Terry,
my bike setup looks like Tree Killer's, I add a plastic milk crate to the backdeck for hauling gear...since I don't use a bowquiver, a pvc tube strapped to the frame and angled up to the rear holds my longbow well without tying up my handlebars. There are pannier system available for some touring bike scenarios that might hold enough gear for hunting...
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Terry I got a Cannondale F5. It is a good bike. Front shocks will lock out that way you decide what you need for the terrain you are on. No back shock. I have a rack on the back. Got mine from REI.
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Mine is a Jamis Dakar, disc brakes, front shocks, rear compression fork, nobby tires.
http://www.jamisbikes.com/usa/index.html
I have not added a rack, yet. Their is a maximum weight limit to most bikes, overloading could be lead to a crash. Standard brakes are unsafe in wet weather. Nobby tires with a tub might be an idea, to avoid flats. Shocks have limits. Cost is $500 under $1000. Cheaper won's last.
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I use my mountain bike to get into some areas and have found my rear suspension bike to not work as well as my non rear suspension bike. if you load the bike down to much in the rear you will have to change the rear suspension settings. Some of the lower priced bike won't have this adjustment or you will need tools to make adjustments....just more things to have to carry(and loose). If you plan on using a trailer it won't have any impact on the rear suspension. I would definitly get front suspension and go with the seat post suspension and a good quality seat. If you go with the gel seat make sure it has a durable cover...not the lycra cover. You can't go wrong with Giant, Cannondale, GT or Trek. You do get what you pay for....for alittle more you get better components. As for trailers...keep your eyes open at the goodwill and yard sales...my wife picked up my kiddie trail/deer hauler up at goodwill for $20.
Best bet is to tell your bike store what you are going to use it for an he can point you in the right direction.
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Not sure if anyone has mentioned weight distribution and balance. If you are carrying weight on a rack, it needs to be centered and secure, or you will find it difficult to ride. I would check some websites, and talk your bike shop. Try a few out if possible.
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I used bikes for many yrs in Florida WMA's. I always just bought the cheap Walmart brand and ordered a shock absorber post from a bike shop. Bought the biggest widest seat I could find to go on top of the post. I later order the swept back handle bars cause I hated to have to lean over to reach the straight ones.
Those cheap bikes would last me about 2 yrs., but I lived in a tent in the woods and hunted from Sept. til Jan. and the bikes took a lot of abuse and water. Back then I could get one for about $50 so no big deal anyway. I would put a rack on the back to haul my tree stands and put deer and hogs on the seat and walk them out. The basket on front comes in handy to haul stuff too.
I could ride 7 miles through rough roads and cross creeks, hog root'n etc. carrying two climbers on back.
Carried my bow on handle bars with the u shaped racks. I also liked the women's style better. Much easier to get on and off when you stop. Especially if you have a tree stand on the back. Just made it a little more difficult to tie game to the bike.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v71/Iflytrout/Pictures/bikestand.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v71/Iflytrout/Pictures/tent051.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v71/Iflytrout/HOGS/bigmomma1q.jpg)
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:laughing: :laughing: :laughing: Hog on the bike! Way cool!
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LoL I think that Hogs name was Harley :D
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My dad rigged up a bike once. Ha we always joked about putting a field dressed deer over the seat then riding on top of the deer out of the woods. From a distance it would really look like you were riding the deer.
In all seriousness having a bike really helps out where atv's are not alllowed
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Good thread, I was just in a bike shop a few weeks ago, not knowing what I was doing. Looking forward to going back with better info.
Pics of your setup are great.
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I love the the hog on the bike... its perfect!
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Terry, a bike is the way to go. I have been hunting off a bike for a number of seasons. Sure it is work headin up hill, but the ride out is fast.
The best idea is to go talk with someone at a bike shop, get them to fit you on a bike. Once you know your frame size you can give those guys the business or start shopping around. Craigslist is great, yard sales etc.
I would suggest a steel frame bike, it maybe heavier but steel is real. It also is less expensive. Front suspension is a good idea but not a necessity. I would not buy a full suspension (F/S) bike. It is hard to mount a rear rack on, and the F/S will waste energy through frame and suspension flex.
Your idea of a rear cart or trailer is a great one. Look for a used burly child trailer. They are cheap used, and very common since kids grow and want to pedal themselves around.
Find a good bike and go for it.
PM if you would like and we can talk about more particular stuff like brakes and shifting components. Take care, Jeff
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I ride a Giant that I bought off craigslist a couple years ago for $80 (new price was around $400). It has great gearing, shifts good and rigid suspension. I noticed a couple of you mentioning having to bend over to reach the handle bars. The bars are adjustable as well as the seat and you can get them setup where you have to bend over very little and be quite comfortable to setup and ride. Also your better bikes are made in different sizes ie. 16,17,18,19 or 20" measuring frame sizes and with the correct size for you body you can hone in you comfort adjustments alot easier.Don't confuse frame size with tire sizes like 24" or 26". As mentioned above a good large, well padded spring seat helps creature comfort and keeps away saddle sores, especially when the road or trail is rough. Ben
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Hi
Have a look at this system. With it, you don't load the bike suspension.
http://extrawheel.com/
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Terry,
When I was looking into this a couple years ago, everyone told me to stay away from the rear suspension. All it did was suck away pedal power when you need it most. You are making a very smart move buying from a bike shop. I ended up with a Specialized Hardrock Sport. About the only non standard item it has is disc brakes. These I like as they stay out of the mud more than the standard rim brakes.
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I would suggest any of the high end bike companies entry level hardtail bikes, used or new. Craigslist often has used giants and gary fischer bikes. Specialized and treks too. I would just look for one that fits and rides well. With the higher end companies comes better frames and shifters. Heck narrow your search and give us another shout, opinions are plentiful around here.
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Bet that was a real job getting the hog on the bike.
:eek:
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Entry level, I have a Specialized Hard Rock which I really like hardtail with front shocks and disc brakes if there is any chance of it being wet or muddy, especially if there is any hills. Make sure to get a good seat if you're going to be riding a long ways and sitting down, these you can get aftermarket quite easily.
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I own a bicycle shop and if you want a bike that will last more than one season invest in a bike shop quality bike. Totally different product from what the dept. stores offer. Two good choices that won't break the bank are the Gary Fisher Advance $480 - $500 and the Trek 4300 $510. These are both front suspension models. Save your money and get the none disc brake models ( easier to maintain and less expensive ). You can install a rear rack to carry light to mid weight stuff but if you over load it you will make steering difficult. Trailers are the way to go and two good choices are the Burley Flatbed $300 ( BurleyTrailersUSA.com ) and the Bob Yak or Ibex ( BobGear.com ). I hope this helps. Drew
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I really like what mrpenguin has to say. I really rode mt bikes hard for some time. My current and only bike is a Kona Hoss (extremely beefy frame and components), with front suspension, and disc brakes. I do think rear suspension will help with the more trail rider oriented people, but think it is an unneccesary evil on an everyday "hunting" bike. It does tend to rob some performance going uphill (I know the "racers" will disagree and say that it keeps the rear wheel on the ground for better traction) for the average joe. Disc brakes are even a negotiable thing for me. I have the mechanicals which are pretty easy to maintain, but if my choices were two similar bikes with different braking systems, I'd go cheaper. Lots of good advice here, only thing I can say is go to your local mtn bike shop and tell them what you are looking for. Chances are they'll help you more than any of us can...Mike
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Definitely go to your LBS (local bike shop) for your purchase. A few reasons why:
1. They need your business
2. They know the product
3. They know how to wrench on your bike
4. They will fit you to the bike (very important)
5. They will know what needs to be done to make it work for your needs (racks, trailers, fenders, etc.)
Personally, I'd skip the suspension and just have higher volume tires put on the wheels, they still absorb the small bumps and you'll be less likely to pinch flat, especially with a big load on.
If you buy from a shop, be sure to take the bike back in after a month or so for a tune up, most shops will do this first tune up for free. Reason being, the cables stretch affecting the brakes and shifters, the bearings settle in, and the wheels get out of true.
Since you plan on riding with a load either on or behind your bike, I'd look at disc brakes for sure. They are way better at stopping especially if it's wet and muddy. Think about it, do any of the car manufacturers use drum brakes any more? No, why, discs just work better.
When getting fitted to the bike, the number one thing is comfort. If you're not comfortable, you won't ride, period. The LBS will make sure your bike is fitted with the parts to make you comfy and will swap out the stem, bar and seat either for free or just the difference in price with what's on the bike already (keep in mind this is for a new purchase from them). If you bring in a used bike, they will still swap parts, you just have to pay full price.
Wear a helmet.
If you buy from a private seller, take your new ride in for a full tune up, yeah it will cost some money, but a properly tuned bike is way more fun to ride and it will be safer. Be sure to have all the bearings serviced as well, hubs, bottom bracket, and headset.
Go riding BEFORE you plan to take the bike hunting. Make sure you know how everything works and if it's going to be compatible with how you plan to use the bike. If you ride just 2-3 times a week 3 weeks before you plan on hunting, your butt will get over the saddle soreness. Those big squishy seats won't save you, they just chafe the inside of your thighs, especially when you start to sweat. Be sure to bring a few basic tools and know how to do basic repairs. If you don't know how to remove the wheels, unseat the tire, fix the tube and put it all back together, have the shop show you. Not much worse than walking out several miles with a flatty.
Lastly, have fun! Ride year 'roud, it's a great way to stay in shape! Be safe, shoot straight, and put up some pics of your new toy and some game it hauled out!
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Make sure you hide your bike. My bud used one last year on a controlled hunt here in CT. Some other guys found it that must have walked all the way and destroyed it. It was limited access no vehicles. Needless to say he wasn't to happy about it. Of course this was a gun hunt but you have to love the hunting comunity!!
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Good stuff....I did stop by the local bike shop yesterday....and he said for my application....rear suspension was definitely un-needed. Not worth the weight, extra mechanicals, and not as trailer friendly.
I didn't know anything about disc brakes...going to stop by there today and find out about them and the shock seats.
Cool pic with the hog!!!!!
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Terry be sure and get us a pic when you get yours all rigged up and ready! ;) Have fun, it's part of the journey...
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Here in Michigan we call this Yankee ingenuity
(http://www.shrewbows.com/rons_linkpics/Deer-bike.jpg)
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:laughing:
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Here's my rig,it's the "Suede" Model by Giant. I bought it at a local bike shop a couple years ago for less than $500.00. I got the large frame model, Big cushion seat. I also like the high handle bars, a lot more comfortable for me than the T bars that makes you lean over. I have another bike that is 21 speed, the Suede is a 7 speed and is enough to get me to my hunting area.
(http://www.shrewbows.com/rons_linkpics/Biking_Bowman.JPG)
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Originally posted by Terry Green:
....rear suspension was definitely un-needed. Not worth the weight, extra mechanicals, and not as trailer friendly.
...going to stop by there today and find out about them and the shock seats.
I agree I have have the full suspension and if got to do it over I would have gone front shock and shock absorber seat. It would have not made much difference in ride and I could have a lot of other attachment options with the hard tail bike. Good luck and have fun shopping!
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Nice ride Ron. Got to love the saddle bags!
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I would second that advice about hiding your bike and locking it to a tree. I lost a nice Trek 4000 to thief while scouting.
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OK...bike is in the works....many thanks guys!!!
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Not sure if this was covered,but when you get your bike set up,get thorn resistant tubes and put in Slime tire liners.
hunting wise I use a Trek,Giant,Specialized and a Haro,all good stuff.hunting with a bike is awesome.Especially in Utah.
Edge
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Long time ago Easton Arrow Reps got a Hunting Mountain Bike made for them. They were cool! Anidized camo just like the game getter arrow shafts. I had a friend that got one... I did everything to get it off him... But I didn't .... :(
Anyone else ever see one.. ???
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Been thinking about a mtn bike also. You can buy a good bow for what some costs !
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Terry,
Here is a bow holder i whipped together after a quick trip to the Depot store to purchase a short length of PVC and a cap for the bottom and a T-joint for the recurve holder. Heavy duty zip ties, pre-drilled steel strip that I had laying around froma previous job, pipe insulation I had laying around, can of black spray paint left over.
The straight pipe will only hold an unstrung longbow. The PVC tube has a piece of pipe insulation inside of it and a piece at the bottom, to protect the bow during transport, and to quiet it down as well.
The T type addition that is used for recurves either strung or unstrung will also hold a strung longbow. I simply cut away a third of the "T" joint, and filled the cavity with expqansion foam. I use rubber or bungee type short straps to secure the bow in the holder.
It isn't the prettiest set up, but it is rock solid, pretty lightweight, and very quiet. I drilled holes on the back side of the PVC to allow the heavy duty zip ties through, and put moleskin at the points where contact is made with either the bike rack or the attachment brace at the bottom. Works real well.
***As a word of caution, make sure to do a fit check on the placement of the PVC tube. I had to modify my initial installation a bit because when I first built and installed it, it seemed to work fine, but then with boots on my heel kept hitting the bottom of the tube. Make sure to leave enough clearance.
(http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa243/piscatordog/Bike%20with%20bow%20holder/IMGP6834-2.jpg)
(http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa243/piscatordog/Bike%20with%20bow%20holder/IMGP6835.jpg)
(http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa243/piscatordog/Bike%20with%20bow%20holder/IMGP6836.jpg)
(http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa243/piscatordog/Bike%20with%20bow%20holder/IMGP6837.jpg)
(http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa243/piscatordog/Bike%20with%20bow%20holder/IMGP6838.jpg)
(http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa243/piscatordog/Bike%20with%20bow%20holder/IMGP6839.jpg)
(http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa243/piscatordog/Bike%20with%20bow%20holder/IMGP6840.jpg)
I have found the front suspension to be nice to have and easier on the body in general. I generally wear in a small backpack, and can strap any extra clothing or whatever to the bike rack.
I am working on an adaptor for a game that I have to allow it to hook to the bike as well. Will post photos of that when I complete it. Hopefully, I can show it being used for it's intended purpose.
Straight shafts,
Chuck
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I forgot to mention, that one realy nice thing about this set up is that unlike strapping the bow across the handle bars, this holder does not cut a real wide path when riding. Also, the location of the holder fairly low on the bike means that that bow in the holder doesn't go above my head when riding. Lastly, I used to just strap the bow lengthwise with rubber straps, along the top bar of the frame. It worked well, but was a bit slow to remove should I have the opportunity for a stalk on an animal while riding to my blind. I also forgot to mention that with this get up I can leave a quiver on the bow if I am using a bow quiver.
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The trailers and bow holders are priceless information.
I used to mountain bike (sold them to get more bows)and have been thinking of combining the two.
This has to be the thread of the year for me! Thanks all for so much info and thanks Terry for starting this.
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As mentioned Mongoose and a couple others are better quality, otherwise alloy frame for lightness and to carry over things u can’t ride around. 2nd hand is OK. For good quality ones. Front suspension only, yes u can get adjustable. Suspension/sprung seat post and comfy seat a must. Most importantly change the handle bars to a set of BMX or slightly higher raised so u can sit more upright. Note the neck, the foremost part of the frame on Ron LaClair’s bike is quiet long, that indicates a bigger frame, his handle bars are also nice and high(elbow height while sitting upright)This way u will not to have to alter the length of all the cables from original an distribution of weight when u sit more upright will allow provision more weight in a carry basket off the handle bars, a second set of rubber hand grips on horns will allow a bit of manoeuvrability/change of position an tie posts at the ends of the handle bars. Be sure to get double walled rims to avoid buckling and such from weight and rough terrain, otherwise they will get out of true easily. Carrying the bike out is not much fun so have quick release on the wheels. 15 speed is sufficient but make sure the d’railer has a small guard/protector. Disk brakes can be an advantage for sure and not effected by untrue rims but they don’t like oil of any sort.
The carry rack of Yukon Chuck’s is a pearler and as slivrslingr mentioned the local bike shop is a good idea and cables stretch and bearings need adjustment fairly shortly after some initial use. Get pedals with metal grip not the full plastic. I still use the rubber ones as they can be serviced and u can ride bear foot but they can’t be got anymore.
If u go twist grip gear change it must be a REVOSHIFT or better. The Quick shifts are also good but if problems start take off the screw caps and spray lubricant liberally, (the grease with dust can harden inside and retards the full movement, well here in our heat anyway).
A rear rack is a must, the wider the better. Generally the longer wheel base the more comfey the ride. 70-80# PSI max with a heavy load, more will explode most mtn bike tyres. Going in about 55# less on sandy tracks.
Sounds like u’r on u’r way and won’t be offended when someone says “on ya bike mate!” when indicating u should clear off.
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I hear one guy saying 220 lbs on the tires, and another saying 50-80 lbs....which is it?
Are they both right in different scenarios.
I don't need to lug game out....I just want to go to stands, ride around quietly to get on pigs, and check on hunters who are out.
I'm a big guy though...and I find less than 80 lbs and my tires don't hold up.
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Tires have their pressure range stamped on the sidewall. I'd be very surprised to see mt bike tires with a high pressure like 220psi. 50-80 is going to be more common.
With a heavy rider you'll probably want the higher end of the range so you don't get "snake bite" punctures when you hit something hard. That's where the tire bottoms out and the tube is pinched against the rim on both sides of the tire, resulting in twin punctures, snake bites.
Guy
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I didn't read through all the posts but here's my offering.
Forget walmart and pawn shops. Unless you know bike mechanicing you may be buying alot of problems.
Buy an entry level bike that's a hardtail. SRAM or Shimano components which means the gears and shifters. Get disc brakes. If you get V-brakes wet, you lose stopping power. Mechanical brakes like Avid BB5s are good. So are Tektro brakes. hydraulic disc brakes start bumping the price and if you have a failure in the field you're toast.
If you go to a bike shop you may get a good used bike that has been given a once-over by their mehanic. Buy a cross-country bike, or XC as MTBers call them.
Buy a BOB trailer. They can be found on Craigslist. Don't buy a Nashbar trailer. They have about a 50lb max capacity. And they break alot. Poor welds.
Bobs can be found here.
http://www.bobgear.com/trailers/
Mechanical tips can be found here:
http://www.parktool.com/repair/byregion.asp?catid=54
My mountain biking experiences can be found here:
www.biketriad.com (http://www.biketriad.com) username Bud
and I ride a bike at work and for pleasure.
If you go cheap you're wasting $. Go mid-range for your needs and get a 29er mountain bike in hard tail. 29er means 29" rims. Less rolling resistance than 26" and you'll need that for hauling out a deer. Search google for bike lights like Light and Motion. Get good lumens. Not a blinky light type. Go strong on the light.
here's and excellent 29er for a good price and with good components.
http://www.bikesdirect.com/products/motobecane/fantom29_08.htm
I could go on. Mountain biking has been my passion for the last two and a half years. I am mechanic certified too.
Good luck. It's a good way to exercise and prepare for hunting AND you can get in good scouting prior to season start.
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Craigs list is good if you live in a big city, I just picked a cherry Kona Lava Dome. It is one quick little pony. 27 lbs, legendary chrome-moly frame, high end components for 275. I got the original bill of sale with it too. I also have a Sekai Sasquatch, which is a bomb proof old mountain bike with a chrome-moly frame and high end components for it's time.
Some of these bow racks are interesting indeed. I'm getting ready to go out in a couple of days when Blue Grouse opens as well as Elk....
I've rode seventy five miles at 5900 feet this week getting ready...
Oh, yes make sure you pay attention to upkeep on the chain, and learn to lube them right. It will save the bike down the road. Sand and dirt will destroy the sprockets and derailleurs.
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Ray...since getting my bike....I have really though about your place for mid-day scouting!!! You could check a LOT of spots quickly.
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50# of pressure holds me w a treestand 220#
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any pictures yet with Terry tote'n a dead thing on his bike ?
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That's a cool looking rig for toting your bows.....Randy
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I did my first trip into the Oregon coast range on a bike this weekend. I took the advice of some who have done some riding and went with a "hybrid" bike with some aggressive tires. The bike shop recommended deflating them a little bit. This way they travel better, with better control on gravel surfaces. They were rated from 50-80lbs. I went with 60. I have a Eberlestock X2 pack that I just strapped my bow on and it road really well. :thumbsup: I can see this as another piece in the arsenal of hunting equipment!
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Yukon Chuck... Thanks!!!! I am making a shopping list for the big box store.... That should be just the ticket
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Excellent advice from Bud B.! Thanks for taking the time to post the info..
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No Ken.......not yet......too deep in serious issues with Dad to get out much since small game season opened....hope to hunt soon though.
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Excellent feedback slivrslingr + Bud B.
Trek 3900 ( 3 series ). 2011 equivalent is the Trek 3900 model (disc brake)( 3 series ). Mid range price Mid range bike recommended retail is $379.00 USA
Rugged + front suspension only ( hardtail )
Good deals at end of summer season. These models are made without change for several years. There is good reason for that.
( if buying 2nd hand )Front suspension is hard on neck sets( bearings ) spend the extra( cheap ) and get er done.
enjoy.
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(http://www.tradgang.com/upload/terry/mtbike1.jpg)
Bike - Large Cushion Seat - Front Suspension - Hardtail - Flex Fenders - Kick Stand Boot - Rear Rack.
$480
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Lookin good Terry :thumbsup:
I expect the next pic of that contraption to have a big ol' hog strapped to the back of it, and you riding a wheelie!!!
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Yesterday afternoon, I rode my REI Mtn bike 5-10 miles in a new section of woods I was exploring/hunting. Came upon 2 doe after a rain within 50 yards & watched them for a good while. They couldn't figure what I was. This is a light bike with plenty of gears to let me pedal uphill with ease. I have panniers on back & stuff my bow (strung) in one side & BQ in the other. Then tie them together & pedal away worry free. The bow is standing on end. Easy to get to & quick to turn around. Haven't packed anything on this bike but I have others. The treat is how many miles you can cover so easy & quiet. Anyone want a pic e-mail me.
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Now get the paint cans out and CAMO that thing! :biglaugh:
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I'm taking my bike for a ride / scouting trip tomorrow , our deer season opened today but I'm not going to get too serious until elk opens next week.
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Having been a mountain bike racer years ago and owning quite a few. I can tell you that a rear suspension bike is NOT what you want. You lose too much energy. Too much of your effort goes to pushing the bike (called bio-bounce) down rather than forward. Also, if you plan to carry out your game, you need to make sure you have the correct gearing. Make sure you have a "triple" up front. (Three chain rings at the pedals). ALso, you will want 29" wheels. The larger the wheel the lower the angle of approach you have which of course means it's easier to roll over stuff. There are several other things that I would suggest like, using an IGH (Internal Gear Hub) but those are pricey. The thought behind this is that in the woods, there are little grimmlins that can reach out and tear that rear dérailleur off the bike and then, your screwed. With an IGH, you don't have that worry. You also, don't have to worry about mud, sticks snow or ice mucking up the dérailleur.
Disc brakes are another that I would suggest. Greater stopping power and if you are getting out of control on a downhill with an 80 pound hog strapped to the back, you want to be able to stop when you squeeze the levers.
Aluminum is lighter and will be the predominant material used for MBs. It is very light but incredibly rigid, (read bouncy and hard on the bum when riding) Steel is real baby! Although heavier, it flexes more and thus gives a "plusher" ride. Also, if something happens to the frame or fork out in the field, it is much easier to find someone who can weld steel than aluminum.
You can spend anywhere from $78 at Wally's for a nicely painted brick that might get you to your destination or you can spend upwards of $6,000 plus. The choice is yours. For what you want and should get, I would say it's roughly $800 to $2,000.
I know...."you're out of your freakin' head!" But keep in mind that what I am proposing you get is something that will last FOREVER.
Here are some bikes I would recommend...
GT Peace 9er
http://www.gtbicycles.com/bikes/mountain/endurance/peace-9-r-multi
Salsa Fargo
http://salsacycles.com/bikes/fargo/
Surly Karate Monkey
http://surlybikes.com/bikes/karate_monkey_complete/
Jamis Exile
http://www.jamisbikes.com/usa/thebikes/hardtails/exile/10_exile1.html
Specialized Rockhopper
http://www.specialized.com/us/en/bc/SBCProduct.jsp?spid=52808&scid=1000&scname=Mountain
I too have bee considering a "Hunting Bike" and out of the ones listed above, I would choose the Fargo.
All of the above bikes will work well with racks, both front and rear. There are a myriad of baskets, panniers (bags) that attach to the racks. Ortlieb make really nice ones, waterproof too! Make it easier to wash out the blood and all.
For trailers, I would look at the BOB trailer series. Great trailers.
And last but not least....for those nights that you just wont make it back (or don't plan to), you could always pull this....
http://midgetcampers.com.au/bushtrekka.htm
PM me if you have any questions.
Eric
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I picked up a Specialized Rockhopper today at a local bike shop off of Craig's list.
What do you guys recommend for a rear rack?
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29's are smoother over some bumps, you can be a slouch and just hammer into the small stuff and be pretty comfy.
But I think they feel weird.
I like a 26" hardtail with front shocks with lockouts.
Like another has posted.......a decent starter bike should run you at least $600 new (that the discounted price- retail usually over a K).
A really sweet MTB, they usually retail at over 3K.
You can score HUGE savings by buying closeout models or used ones.
Fixing Wallyworld stuff.......isn't cost effective IMHO. The annoyance factor of having equipment break when you need it.......double whammy.
FWIW I've been pleased with my old Fuji Tahoe Pro series. I got it discounted big time (when they dropped the line for a yr). Added some better stuff to it.........have maybe $650 in it.
Been flawless for the last 3 yrs. Did fold a cassette on a hill climb when I first got it, but that the only problem.
It's been down hard a couple of times........no real damage except to me and the paint.
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I like the fact it's in a color I can find in the woods ;) (http://img823.imageshack.us/img823/2636/tahoe.jpg)
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Terry,
You made a good choice. Let me make one suggestion: Try riding it off road with and without the kickstand and compare how loud the bike is. You will probably find as I have that the kickstand will rattle and spook game. There are plenty of trees to lean the bike against.
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Make sure to keep the seatpost height up enough. You want just a slight bend in your knee when at the bottom of the peddle stroke. You can mess your knees up with the seat too low.
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I'D RATHER USE MY TRUCK…lol
:biglaugh: :biglaugh: :biglaugh: :biglaugh:
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I've not read all the posts but will mention these points and second them if already made:
1)The bike fit to your body is going to be the most important factor in how much you can get out of the bike and at what comfort physically. A mis-fit bike can make riding on uneven terrain a drag, no matter how tuff you are.
2)Back in the day they designed some very nice mtn bikes with rigid frames, using geometry and metals to build flex into areas on the bike such as the fork and the tail. Find out if your bike frame is designed this way if you go shockless. I prefer them as it puts more power (me) to the ground using less effort. I like the weight savings on the front using a straight fork.
3)using a rack, especially on the front, will mean you might want a bike with a bit more forgiving geometry up front than the quickest bikes have. The closer to the frame the fork angle is (simplification) the quicker the turning, but the easier to take a header. They can be touchy with a loaded rack. A little less angle on a tired return ride at night you may be glad you don't have to be on edge the whole way home to keep it together.
Just my thoughts and BTW a little less angle is still going to be a very capable mtn bike.
Joshua, thinking its pretty cool you are going this route...
Oh, and its always easier to lose 5 lbs than chase after a bike that shaves off 6 ozs and costs another 500.00. Just sayin' (not that I think you need to lose any wt I don't even know what you look like besides pics here on Tradgang)
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You can change the fit and feel of a bike a bunch by changing the stem and bars (and other stuff).
I did mine and it's more comfy, but way less forgiving than it was when stock. Eh, ya get used to it.
Getting used to it.....whatever you do, run stock or after a mod, take it out to some test areas to get the hang of it before hitting the woods.
FWIW I do think bikes are cool, but strapping hunting gear to them offers hightened risk to such gear.
Higher speed, leverage, a "stumble" can magnify such an error's effect (compared to just tripping over your own two feet).
BTW, when on the trail and wearing more bulky clothing, I find that I have to drop my seatpost a bit. A little tougher on the knees but I can dismount easier if I need to in a hurry.
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What do you guys think about about disc brakes, are they worth the extra cash?
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I was considering using my Trek ($75.00 pawn shop)bike at the McAlester hunt this year(IF I dont get deployed). They give you a limited amount of scouting time and limit your driving. There is a lot of roads on that place. A bike would be great for quickly covering the distances to get to some areas I want to look at.
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Personally, I don't think disc brakes are worth the extra cost.
If you're a high performance rider, then sure. But for what most of us do, no.
Just be sure to get good quality brakes. The cheap stuff flexes under load and can give you some scary moments when you really need them to work well. There's just nothing like having your brake levers bottomed out against the grips and continuing to hurtle down a narrow dirt path.
Guy
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I bike quite a bit, and often use my Gary Fisher Tassahara ($400 used) for getting into my hunting area. I've been a mountain biker for over 20 years. I always tell people this: Bows, guitars, and mountain bikes are all similar in that you should get as good of one as you can afford. If you get junk, or 'el cheapo', you will not enjoy it, and will not use it. You may think you don't like the activity itself, when the truth is that your equipment is too lousy to enjoy.
My thoughts are...
1. Determine where you'll be riding, and what you'll be carrying on it. Deer? Pigs? Rhinoceros? This will determine whether you want a trailer, or some method to carry on the bike. Thick brush? Mud? Desert? Hills? Flat? You won't need disc brakes on flatland... but they would be helpful on hills, and possibly less noisy in mucky areas.
2. Go to a bike shop, where people who know what they are talking about can give you some experienced advice. Really... would you recommend that someone buy a bow at Wal-Mart, or a pawn shop, if they had no idea what they were getting? No way.
3. 29ers are great, and give a nice ride. My next bike will be one. No need for rear suspension. Possibly no need for front suspension, either, depending on how hard you will be riding, or how out of shape you are. My front shock is busted, and I've permanently locked it out. I ride 18 miles round trip to work, on some pretty bumpy ground, and it's no big deal. Be careful do not be overcome by thinking you need something you really don't. I raced a non-suspension mtn bike 20 years ago and it worked just fine.
4. Definitely put 'slime' in the tires. This is a gooey substance that will automatically seal any small holes in your inner tubes. Also, put together a small bike repair kit and never leave without it.
5. Once you get set up, try it out at home. You don't want to find out at 3am in the parking lot of some wilderness area that when you put your pack on and get on your bike, you can't tilt your head back because it hits your pack/frame.
6. If possible, get out from between your load and the bike. Put your gear in pannier bags directly on the bike, instead of in a backpack. That saves a lot of wear and tear on your tailbone!
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Good to see this thread back up, just today I mentioned to my wife that I want to get a bike and remembered this thread from last year. Lots of good advice(now written down) and I'll be going to a few shops in the next few weeks. Thanks for sharing.
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This is a great topic that deserves an occasional ttt.
This pic is a few years old, but just wanted to show how I haul my lightweight trailer when needed.
It rolls as easy as the bike.
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-aK_umNn3BCA/TIaBKQ-McMI/AAAAAAAACVw/XM9ssgIwEns/s912/018_18.JPG
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Glad to see so many guys using pedal-power!
Thanks for putting this on everyone's radar, Terry.
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I was stationed on the Quantico Marine Base in the 80's. I modified a bike to v
Carry my climbing tree stand over the rear tire and my bow in a gun rack on the handlebars.
I am looking for a picture I had taken with a doe on the bike with me riding on her back. It was a gravel road and a mile from the gate where my truck was parked
I wish I had that bike last year to haul out my Julie.
Bikes work well
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I am doing some research and found this link to the beer keg hauling trailers.
http://www.bikesatwork.com/
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For those looking for a method of carrying a bow while riding a bike check out the BOWTOTE The bow tote is made by the Vintage Archery Co. manufacture of the TuffHead broadhead
www.bowtote.com. (http://www.bowtote.com.)
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Finally a topic I'm well versed in. I would agree with Archie above in most respects. If you want to mountain bike its best to get one from a bike shop and not a big box store. Also the type of terrain you will be riding will determine the type of bike you should get, but I would recommend something with at least a front suspension, mechanical disc brakes and it should cost somewhere around $500 that is if you want something that will last you years.
Reason for front suspension is that it makes the ride much more comfortable.
Reason for disc brakes are two fold:
1. If you ride when its below freezing out you will need disc brakes if you hope to stop. When water hits the rim of your tire it will freeze and your rim brakes will be completely useless. and yes I am talking from experience here it wasn't fun in fact it was very scary as it was a night ride in 15 degree weather and I had no brakes after breaking through the ice on a puddle.
2. Disc brakes are just that much more powerful, if you need to stop in a hurray you want disc brakes. On a steep decent trust me when I say you want disc over rim again talking from a lot of painful experience there.
As Archie said make yourself a small repair kit at minimum should have multi-tool, small pump, spare bike tube, bike tube patches, tire levers, and two powerlinks (for chain). All of this can be put in a small bag that attaches under your seat so you won't forget it. Always and I mean ALWAYS wear a helmet if you are mountain biking.
Also if you plan on riding make sure you get some saddle time in before hand, your butt and legs will thank me. Feel free to pm me with any particular biking questions you may have.
My mountain bike is a Yeti 575, knee/shin pads are helpful when riding on the snow and ice being its very slippery :biglaugh: .
(http://www.ridemonkey.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=90388&d=1171232245)
(http://www.ridemonkey.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=90391&d=1171232245)
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Very timely topic. Lots of top notch info.
Thanks!
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Terry, I have a Trek 820. Built like a tank.