I've only had one longbow, and it was a 21st Century I had 15+ years ago. Beyond that, I've always shot recurves. But, as I said elsewhere, y'all are a bad influence on me. When I was much younger, the longbows all seemed to be 68+" long and a heavier draw weight was required (I was told) to get the same velocities as a recurve. I don't think that is the case any longer (if it ever was.)
Soooo...what does one look for as desireable attributes in a longbow?
For me is has to say Big River on it!!!!!!!!
Go to a trad event if you can and the vendors there will let you shoot some so you can find one you like. there are so many different things in a long bow that what I may love you may hate or vice versa. R/D or d-shape, traditional or hybrid, straight longbow grip or locater grip. Realisticly it's hard to choose any bow without shooting them. Sorry if I made it worse but I'd hate to see anyone buy A bow that didn't feel right when they were shooting it.
I'd prefer it to say Lost Creek... Maybe NAT on the side of it or something... :goldtooth:
Ron King's ( Fox Archery) triple crown or royal crown, you can look but you wont find a better shooter.
All the bowhunters I've met in these parts shoot the kinds of bows we don't mention. Many of them claim proficiency out to 100 yards. I've seen one Widow at a 3D shoot and everyone else was whispering about it. :rolleyes:
I live only an hour from O.L. Adcock, but he's not taking orders. I do, though, have an email in to him. He might have some bows I can shoot.
What characteristics make a good longbow? I realize everyone has their fav bowyer, but I was looking more for thoughts on grip design, limb design, cut past center type things.
Dan Toelke will let you shoot his and they are awesome, so is he. My wife got one of his and it is amazing. I just picked up a Thunderstick III, so far I love everything about it and I have shot many of the Howard Hill longbows and they deliver as well.
reflex deflex limbs, cut to center with a locater grip would probably be the easiest to transition to at first. Some sort of a hybrid type because they are mid way between a recurve and a d-style longbow.
Quote...What characteristics make a good longbow? ...[/QB]
Forgiveness.
I have a longer draw so want a bow that only adds 3lbs or less at the end of my draw. I like a 64 inch longbow but some 62 inch I have shot are equal in smoothness but they are fewer- that special one that comes along out of every several made.
I like a finger indent grip but made my own to get it (the bowyer left the grip unformed).
I prefer mildly R/D bows but that may change with my Ossabaw, a pronounced R/D design by Marty Thompson.
I've shot a lot of different longbows but wonder how many of them shot or felt poorly because they were not tuned to my draw or some other little detail. Come to think of it the best shooting bows almost always were already set up right by the bowyers themselves.
As a way to compare, a bow I can stack the arrows with right away is a good bow for me- I'm not a great shot yet, but know when a bow works well with my form and style. Whether shelf detail or shelf cut or what ever it is I know when a bow has it for me.
A lot of it becomes psychological after that IMO.
Joshua
Anything Hill archery makes looks good
R/D bows vs Hill style is something you must experience for yourself. I prefer R/D but nobody can tell you which you will prefer.
Whenever I look at a longbow the first place I look is the limb tips. Mass at the limb tips translates into handshock and I am not a fan of handshock.
Good luck bow hunting.
I don't have the experience that a lot on here do, but I will give my two cents. I prefer the r/d bows. I have a d shape also and like it but it doesn't compare to my r/d. I shot a buddies d shape for a little while and the hand shock was bad enough to give me tendonitis in my elbow for several months. That being said, I know you have to shoot with a bent elbow with them according to Byron Ferguson but I keep my straight. Also, I like a locatet grip. Mine has the finger locaters and just fits my hand perfectly. I also would recommend going to a big shoot and trying different ones out. I've shot a lot of them at Denton Hill and some I really liked the looks of, didn't care for how they shot. Good luck
QuoteOriginally posted by LITTLEBIGMAN:
Ron King's ( Fox Archery) triple crown or royal crown, you can look but you wont find a better shooter.
LITTLEBIGMAN,
I'm in total agreement with you. I've owned one of each and still have the Triple Crown. They are both very accurate shooting bows. I prefer the extra length and smoothness of the Triple Crown.
Bill
In the short time I've been been into the longbow I've observed the wide variety within the classification itself. Some say if it has a recurve handle it's not a longbow at all because of the drastic difference in hand placement(high vs low). As a consequence it's hard to focus in on attributes until you've made the decision on which type you may wish to concentrate on. The learning curve has been long for me but so enjoyable on the type that I chose but knowing those shooting differences in advance makes the process much easier. My guess is when we are initially trying to make our determination many of us haven't gathered enough information to shoot the differing designs properly. Reading first then shooting those different designs with what we've learned would make it a whole lot easier but fun either way.
Although I agree with Joe, Big River :thumbsup:
That is a question you will have to figure out by trial and error. The good news is, It doesnt have to cost anything other than time, sweat and perhaps a few broken arrows :rolleyes:
Good luck with your search
I should probably post under the screen name, Broken Arrows! I really appreciate all the advice and replies. I'll shoot as many different bows as I can...or maybe buy, try, and sell/trade until I arrive at a good place! :D
I love my Hill bows, but there sure are a lot of really good sticks out there. Shoot as many different bows as you can. Eventually, one will "grab" you.
Get one that feels good in your hand and draws smoothly. Don't worry so much about draw weight or arrow velocity. Just get one that suits you and that you can shoot accurately.
As soon as you get really comfortable with it, another great bow will "grab" you, then another, and another, and another...
I love how the guy asks for "desirable attributes" in a longbow and gets a volley of brands tossed at him. :banghead:
I'll echo the post that made the most sense...go to an event and shoot a lot of them. If you are a taller guy, start with a 66" or 68".
I would find something that has a crowned shelf, is cut to center, and has a shallow locater so you can repeat hand placement easy.
I disagree with the "transition" bow comment. I don't see the point in moving if you are going to shoot a modern-recurve style riser with a deep-locater grip. Kind of like shooting a recurve with straight limbs but I guess it depends on what your definition of a longbow is.
Also, the masses seem to be flocking to the R/D hybrids these days. Don't be afraid to try an actual D-style, straight limbed longbow.
Really need to see what floats your boat? Today, longbow are not all long. Many different designs: D-shape, R/D, Self, 3-piece, 2-piece..........
I have shot them all and they all have their own qualities. I would first decide on length and what type of hunting you do. I would keep in in the 60"-68" range.
You will get less or zero hand shock with the R/D and three piece LB's.
Lots of good bowyers out there so best to test the waters before jumping in.
Mike
I plan on testing the waters, but there are precious few trad shooters hereabouts. One generous poster has offered to send me a bow to try out...wow! I declined because I wouldn't want to chance having the usps gorillas...umm...ponies messing it up in transit.
Thanks for all the advice and comments, y'all. I've been surfing a lot and really like the looks of those Super Shrews. Maybe Mudd will send me one to look at! :D :saywhat:
QuoteIf you are a taller guy, start with a 66" or 68".
I would find something that has a crowned shelf, is cut to center, and has a shallow locater so you can repeat hand placement easy.
I'm 6'4" but have never owned a bow longer than 64"...am accustomed to 60". The crowned shelf is a must--are some longbows made without them? Cut to center makes a more forgiving bow, yes? Or just able to use a wider range of spines?
QuoteOriginally posted by LimbLover:
I love how the guy asks for "desirable attributes" in a longbow and gets a volley of brands tossed at him. :banghead:
I'll echo the post that made the most sense...go to an event and shoot a lot of them. If you are a taller guy, start with a 66" or 68".
I would find something that has a crowned shelf, is cut to center, and has a shallow locater so you can repeat hand placement easy.
I disagree with the "transition" bow comment. I don't see the point in moving if you are going to shoot a modern-recurve style riser with a deep-locater grip. Kind of like shooting a recurve with straight limbs but I guess it depends on what your definition of a longbow is.
Also, the masses seem to be flocking to the R/D hybrids these days. Don't be afraid to try an actual D-style, straight limbed longbow.
"kind of like shooting a recurve with straight limbs." That says it all for me. I love all the styles of trad bows (except metal risered) but for me, I'm not shooting a longbow if I'm shooting a hybrid. There is a lot to recommend in hybrids but one of the really desirable qualities that I need to have in a longbow is that it actually BE a longbow-long, "D" shaped, longbow risered-in fact my favorite is not even cut to center because that would disqualify me for many European longbow tournaments! What's wrong with NOT making it easy on yourself and actually learning to shoot a real longbow?! Isn't that part of the FUN?! Longbows are light and with excellent "pointability" for quick shots etc. But the real attraction for me is that "longbow feeling"; that connection to history that you're just not gonna get with a hybrid.
I've heard the D-shaped bows have a lot of hand shock...but I suspect not all of them do.
Just a noob but I read a book once :-)
According to this book I read, the best bow hunters of history shoot straight. Howard explains why in the book, he was very convincing (Hunting the Hard Way, by Howard Hill).
From the book it would seem other bows may be better for target shooting, but when you get out into the woods the straight long bows are what is recommended. I suppose if you have a feed stand and set up a target for practice then wait for them to line up ... :archer2:
Andy,
I have to go to Ruidoso on business from 8/19-8/21. I have a D shaped longbow 68" and 57#@31". If you wanted to pick it up from me on the 19th and either shoot it for a day in the mountains around Ruidoso or take it home and bring it back to me there on the morning of the 21st you sure could. I know that's a couple hour drive for you but if you wanted to try one out without buying one blindly or having to worry about shipping it is an option....Shawn
There are a bunch of good ones. Shoot as many as you can and go with the one you like the best.
Hello,
I recently wanted to go back to traditional archery for hunting and target shooting. I have a bear re-curve and wanted a R/D bow 62" long. I went to the E.T.A.R. this last weekend and shot different bows until my arms were falling off. I decided on a H&S or a Stewart bow. I got really lucky and ended up with a Stewart T/D bow at the blanket sales they had on Friday (I am a very happy camper). The only thing I gave up on buying a used bow is it's 64" instead of the 62" that I wanted. Shoots great, very smooth, no hand shock, and whats very important is that it feels like it was made for me. :goldtooth:
Ken
I shoot longbows only and I tried many. By now I own a Cari-Bow Peregrine and that bow ends all discussions. Period. It shoots where you look, wicked fast, no handshock or vibratons and it pulls as sweet as silk. Try to test one and see yourself.
Here is a nice review: http://www.peteward.com/test.Perigrine.html
And believe me, all that Pete is writing about the Peregrine !s true
QuoteOriginally posted by Andy Cooper:
I've heard the D-shaped bows have a lot of hand shock...but I suspect not all of them do.
You can get a mild R/D longbow that forms that continuous "D" when strung and is legal for all the tourneys. I have a Border GL. The "GL" stands for glassless and due to the lighter weight, carbon and angle and string geometry-it's a SHOOTER! To each his own.
QuoteOriginally posted by Curveman:
QuoteOriginally posted by Andy Cooper:
I've heard the D-shaped bows have a lot of hand shock...but I suspect not all of them do.
You can get a mild R/D longbow that forms that continuous "D" when strung and is legal for all the tourneys. I have a Border GL. The "GL" stands for glassless and due to the lighter weight, carbon and angle and string geometry-it's a SHOOTER! To each his own. [/b]
(http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j2/stevet_01/GL.jpg)
I would recommend the following...
1. Call local bowyers and see if they have some showroom bows and better yet a range to try them out.
2. Go to a traditional archery expo, or traditional shoot and talk with the bowyers. Most of the time they allow you to take them to the expo range.
3. Some bowyers have sample bows they are willing to send out for a potential customer to "test". After you're done, you just send the bow(s) back and a percentage of your money is refunded, or put towards a down payment should you decide to purchase from them.
QuoteOriginally posted by RKMBrown:
Just a noob but I read a book once :-)
According to this book I read, the best bow hunters of history shoot straight. Howard explains why in the book, he was very convincing (Hunting the Hard Way, by Howard Hill).
From the book it would seem other bows may be better for target shooting, but when you get out into the woods the straight long bows are what is recommended. I suppose if you have a feed stand and set up a target for practice then wait for them to line up ... :archer2:
By straight longbows do you mean the D-shaped ones...or something else?
Yes. They only take on the D-Shape when strung. Hill's point was that bows with a bend in them are more sensitive and thus the sensitive nature of the bows tend to make them harder to shoot in hunting situations. Such as when not shooting perfectly perpendicular to the target. They are faster and thus shoot farther but it is more important to hit the target. This according to Hill. There is a chance that he and the other experts were wrong back then :-)
QuoteOriginally posted by RKMBrown:
Just a noob but I read a book once :-)
According to this book I read, the best bow hunters of history shoot straight. Howard explains why in the book, he was very convincing (Hunting the Hard Way, by Howard Hill).
From the book it would seem other bows may be better for target shooting, but when you get out into the woods the straight long bows are what is recommended. I suppose if you have a feed stand and set up a target for practice then wait for them to line up ... :archer2:
Longbows are easy to hunt with. In fact, they make you want to move around because they are so light. I had a much harder time hunting with a 62" takedown recurve.
You would be surprised how much they DON'T get in the way. You forget about the added length quick.
Also...I read that book too. Howard was admittedly a longbow shooter from day one and he had a very specific way of shooting. Byron Ferguson covers it more in "Become the Arrow". You have to take the era into consideration as well. People were moving to the recurve then as the newer thing. The trend is coming full circle now - recurves to longbows. It is a different perspective.
HH did a shooting exhibition at my school when I was in second grade. The most memorable thing was when he split a playing card that was facing him edge-on. I'd thought the impressive thing was when he snuffed out several candles...until he told us the secret was using flu flu's. Still, given that it was over 46 years ago, he must've made quite an impression!
a good shooter to me!
I've about decided to order a Shrew and concentrate on regaining my form with my recurves during the wait. That way, if I don't like the Shrew when it finally arrives, I can dangle it in front of Mudd :D ...umm..I mean, I shouldn't have trouble moving it. :saywhat: