I would appreciate your advice on what arrow to start out with. I have a Tomahawk long bow, 51# at 28" (which is my draw length). I am planning on using 125 gr tips and standard inserts. I would like to go with either GT traditional, Beman mfx classic, or CE Heritage arrows. I have looked at charts until I can't hardly focus anymore. I know the best thing is to shoot the arrow, but if any of you have a similar setup to mine maybe you can save me some time. All advice will be greatly appreciated ... Thanks
I'd recommend getting the heaviest shafts. Of the three, the CE Heritage (250's for you, cut to 29" I think) is the heaviest at 11gpi. They're also the most expensive I think. An alternative is to buy the GT 3555's and use weight tubes, which is a cheaper route and will get your weight up as all. I'm not sure of the draw backs of weight tubes, if any, so I'll let someone else comment on that.
But, generally, I think as your form improves, you're going to see increased draw length, maybe as much as an inch. In the meantime, getting arrows that are cut to 29" should be good and gauge what you need that way. They're all good arrows and you won't be "losing out" with any of them. Based on your info though, you'd be looking at the GT 3555's, Beman 400's, or the CE 250's.
I have gone through most of the available carbons and FMJ's. Like McFlurry said, look at the gpi of the arrow because some are hard to get up to a decent weight (grains per pound of draw weight -- gpp). I prefer GT trads for their toughness and the variety of ways you can add weight if you need it.
60-64 lb tapered fir.
I shoot the GT 3555's with 145gr heads from my Horne's combo LB 51@28 and my Kodiak 50@28 with 3GPI tubes and and am very happy with them.
I know that results may vary, but I have found the beman ics bowhunters to be very durable inexpensive shafts, so the classic mfx should be even better than those. I use the 3 gpi weight tubes in mine with 275 grains up front but may switch to 100 grain brass inserts to see how they fly.
I have not experienced a single one of the most common heard complaints about the weight tubes, whether it be their durability or them not staying in the shaft without glue and blowing the nocks out the back of the shaft.
If you are only wanting to shoot 125 grain tips, the 500 spine may be what you need. I shoot the 400's out of a 55# recurve with over twice that much weight up front and I still think they could use some more.
If you don't mind tinkering a little, one thing to try is to buy a 3Rivers Traditional Only Carbon test kit. These come with aluminum inserts in the following spines: 300, 340, 400, 500, and 600. There are three different test kits, two with half the above mentioned spine weights ( 300, 340, 400; and 400, 500, and 600)and one with one arrow of each.
I also recommend ordering one set of 50-grain brass inserts, and one set of 100-grain brass inserts. You can take a thin plastic sandwich bag or plastic wrap and use it to tightly fit an insert into the arrow to be tested. Try your 125-grain field point in the 500 spine and 400 spine arrow with the standard aluminum insert, 50-grain insert, and 100-grain insert. Shoot each one several times. You can slowly trim arrows down and repeat test to see what setup gives you the best flight at a weight you are happy with.
Then order the shafts and components or fletched arrows that you want. It will take a little effort but it will give you an arrow mached to your bow.
Good luck!
Going back to my "weight tubes" thing. Weight tubes shooting at relatively soft targets is no problem. Weight tubes shooting at relatively hard targets knock the nock (wow, that was unintended) right off. I even pinched them every couple of inches. I should've pinched them some more. So, I'm going back now and pinching them more and placing dabs of glue every so often. Just spreading the word.