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Main Boards => PowWow => Topic started by: WPAtrapper on July 22, 2010, 03:48:00 PM
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I have an older Ben Pearson recurve that I'd like to refinish. I read the article in TBM and plan on using the Helmsman Spar Urethane recommended by the author, only in satin. My question is can I spray the whole bow or should I stay away from the glass on the limbs. In the article he only sprayed the wood on the riser. I just wanted to make sure so as not to damage the glass. I would like to spray the whole thing if possible though.
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You might move this question to the history/collecting forum-more likely to get expert answers.
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You can spray it all. I like to use a spray bomb called Zip-Guard. It is hot and dries hard. The spar is good and I used it with good results but had some issues with it not drying. I switced to the zip-guard and had real nice results. Now I use a two part finish that I spray from my hvlp system. Good luck.
Chuck
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Sand the whole bow down through at least 220 grit. You can see when the finish is off the limbs. I don't use anything rougher than 150 over the glass, or you can remove too much and affect tiller/timing. Spray over the glass, as well as the riser.
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I read that article too and couldnt figure out why he only did the riser. I have done a couple of bows with good results. Except I did the whole bow and used wipe-on poly for a finish. I wouldnt necessarily follow what was in that article. There are some professional bow refinishing guys here. Look over in the history collecting forum and there is a ton of info there. In fact one guy is doing a 66 Kodiak right now with a ton of pictures. Good luck with the bow.
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OK, thanks guys.
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I sanded my bow down to 220, sprayed minwax Helmsman Spar Urethane, 4 or more coats, 24hr dry time between, fine steel wool between. Came out beautiful and tuff.
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One other question. When you guys spray the whole bow do you hang it or how do you keep it from messing up the finish where you lay it down to dry?
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Hang it from a piece of fishing line on the top string groove.
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Ok, That's what I was thinking.
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Make sure you wipe the sanding dust off before you spray it or blow it off with an air hose. Don't want any trash on the bow when you coat it especially after you wool it down between coats.
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I use 100 grit myself on everything wood and glass.Then blow all the dust out of the pours in the wood with some compressed air and use a dry clean cloth to wipe down your limbs and you should be set to apply new finish.As for finish if you do not have a spray gun Birchwood & Casey gun stock tru oil is about one of the best for both wood and fiberglass bd
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I use the Helmsman satin and it works very well.The instructions call for recoating within 1 1/2 hours but I found that to be way to soon and it took forever to dry.I recoat after 12 hours and have much better results.I spray about 6 coats.
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Thanks for all the help guys. I started sanding last night. I'll post a pic of the finished product when I'm done.
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If you are going to use multiple coats, you can hang it from the top groove one time, then the bottom the next time...and alternate until complete.
I used the massey epoxy finish, which is a wipe on.
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If you decide to not tackle the project yourself consider sending it to the Bow Hospital with Joe Lasch. I just picked up 2 custom bows that he refinished for me and they look like they just came out of the factory!