I was thinking about trying water based polyurethane to seal my arrows. I've been using Bohning sealer and really like it but the smell is kinda rough. Can you dip shafts in the poly or do most people just wipe it on? If shafts can be dipped do you have to thin it and if so, what do you thin it with? Also, what glue would you use, Bohning or Ducco?
Thanks so much
Toby
I've both dipped and wiped. When I dipped my shafts I did not thin the sealer and I just let the excess drip back into the dip tube. I also used Duco to attach my fletching.
Does the dipping work pretty good? Reason I'm asking is I found some water based poly at Lowes on sale for around 10 bucks a gallon. That is so much cheaper than the Bohning sealer!
I love water-based poly, but it tends to stick in the foam targets. So does Tru-Oil.
Killdeer :(
I would check to see how thick the sealer is. As for what to thin the sealer usually the can has some instructios. If not check the companies website. If it is as thin as the Bohning sealer go for it striaght out of the can. I have used both in the past. My only complaint with either product is target burn. I always ended up with "stuff" on my arrows that stuck like glue.
I love Tung-Oil. The first layer I use a mixture with turpentine, 50-50%. Second layer Tung-oil only.
Don't like the smell? Target burn? But like to dip them....try Daly's Pro-fin. Duco cement works great with it when fletching. I dip and hang the shafts without having to thin it. About 3 to 4 coats and they are beautiful. The consistency of Daly's right out of the can is perfect. It will sheet off the shafts just the way you like it. It is a finish meant for the outdoors too. It won't yellow over time like Spar Urethane does. The one drawback is you have to wait about 6-8 hrs for it to dry. So I'll dip them and hang them in the a.m. When I get back home from work I steel wool and dip again. Come morning they are ready for the third coat. You can use waterbased paints for the cresting and crown. :thumbsup:
Thanks for the input! The Daly's Pro-Fin really sounds good, is it expensive? Where do you get it?
Snag, Always like your responses on these arrow question threads. I have seen the Dalys on the Whispering Winds site and at Dalys but no where local. Where do you get yours?
Right now I am using the water based sealer from Home Depot and works well. I use a foam brush to apply. Really like the no smell aspect and won't cause any of my paint / stains to run.
Another vote for Daly's :thumbsup:
I order mine from Bob at Whispering Wind Arrows as there are no stores near me that carry it. It seems pricy but it is a superior finish and after dipping a dozen shafts, three coats, I poured the finish back in the can and the level is only down from the quart can rim about 3/4". Should do many dozens.
I use the water based polly from Lowe's for my arrows. Works great, I wipe mine on, about 2 coats then cap and crest, then two more coats. .............JAMES
I use the water based polly from Lowe's for my arrows. Works great, I wipe mine on, about 2 coats then cap and crest, then two more coats. .............JAMES
I tried the water based poly, then listened to snag..... Daly's ProFin all the way for me from now on. Great product ! No target burn. Duco for nocks and feathers or fletch tape. bought mine direct from Daly's for $34 a quart, $17 of that is hazmat shipping. Thanks for sharing the tip with us all snag !
When I was making custom arrows I used Minwax solvent based poly. The water base is easy to work with but in my experience does not hold up like regular poly, and as Killdeer indicated, it picks up residue from the targets which does not happen with the Minwas. Thin the Minwax about 1:3 or 4 with mineral spirits and do at least three dips, steel wool in between each dip.
I used to use spar urethane but got tired of the finish yellowing after a little while. I tried Ted Fry's "Raptor Finish" for a while too. It was good and I had no problems with it. Now I'm using Daly's ProFin after seeing a post about it here. It seems to work really well, doesn't yellow, and I can get it cheaper than most other sealers. Just dip and let the excess run back into the tube. After 3 or 4 coats, I call it good.
I have Used MinWax Poly forever, and Johnsons Paste Wax to keep them from Sticking so Bad in the Foam-age!! :readit: :archer2:
Glad to hear the ProFin is working for you guys. I love the stuff! Whispering Winds is a good source for it.
I am trying to figure out a "recovery method" so I can take the drippings of the arrows and recycle them back. I have been using a wallpaper tray to gather the drippings in. But by the time I get to it (overnite or after work) it is already too late to get it back in the container....any ideas?
One of the advantages of store bought poly is saving on shipping and the waiting time from order to delivery. Actually, Minwax is only one of the polys I have used. Other brands are good and in particular, some of the floor finishes have worked extremely well for me. Be sure to use the high gloss stuff, whatever you do.
Shakes..I have never had to use wax to keep the arrows slick and to avoid the target residue.
I use a water based stain which dries fast and then use gasket lacquer to seal them using the ECO-DIPPER , the lacquer dries in seconds and you can put as many coats on as you need . go to WINTERBOWSHOPPE.com and check out the ECO-DIPPER, they also have a demo on youtube. I can do a dozen woodies from start to finish ready to shoot in under 2 hours. when fletching i use fletch tape with a dab of fletch tite on both ends of the feathers, this works great.
Spar Urethane may yellow over time, but it's not noticeable the way I do my finish...any crown paint goes over the spar urethane then under my topcoat of gasket lacquer. This type of finish is more work, but it pays off IMO. Spar Urethane is as waterproof as you're gonna get for a finish, and the gasket lacquer really adheres to it outstandingly and creates an EXTREMELY tough finish. I've shot arrows with this finish extensively into hay bales, 3D Targets, bag targets with nothing sticking to it and no noticeable wear on the finish. My prototype testers came up with the same result. It's pretty heavy, but there's a lot of flexibility to how much weight you add depending on how many coats you use of each finish.
I do 2-5 (I can get away with 1 coat if it's the right consistency, and if I'm kind trying to keep the weight as low as possible) coats of spar urethane thinned with Penetrol (this stuff is great, I thin my crown paints with it as well and something about it really makes for a glass smooth finish) with steel wool or scotch-brite between coats, then move to the gasket lacquer with 2-5 coats as well.
Craig
QuoteOriginally posted by Flying Dutchman:
I love Tung-Oil. The first layer I use a mixture with turpentine, 50-50%. Second layer Tung-oil only.
No trouble getting glue or tape to stick on the tung oil? I use a lot of that on rifles I stock, but hadn't thought of it for arrows.
My friend here in Ohio makes and sells custom wood arrows and he uses marine paint and sealer like they use on boats. He just started using this about a year ago and he says it is the best he has ever used. He and his wife have been making custon arrows for about 20 years.
QuoteOriginally posted by Andy Cooper:
QuoteOriginally posted by Flying Dutchman:
I love Tung-Oil. The first layer I use a mixture with turpentine, 50-50%. Second layer Tung-oil only.
No trouble getting glue or tape to stick on the tung oil? I use a lot of that on rifles I stock, but hadn't thought of it for arrows. [/b]
No troubles with that. I always lacquer the last 10 inch of my shaft, that's were the fletching comes. Then I glue the points. When done all that, the part of the shaft that is bare wood, is treated with Tung Oil.