Hey Guys,
I have a Predator recurve 52lb.@28" 60" AMO. I am shooting Traditional Only 600s 29" long 125 grain field points. The arrows hit to the right. I have tried lighter field tips, heavier field tips, different arrows....stiffer spines, weaker spines, different length arrows, on and on and on. They ALL hit to the right by about 6-7 " at 20 yards. Got any ideas on what to do to bring the arrows back to the left? Thanks for suggestions.
Mike
sounds like something you'r doing ...maby torquing the bow ,bad anchor ,no anchor torquing the string,not aiming . its hard to help without a video from front , overhead back and face side angles . do you have an experienced sucessfull archer buddy? i know theres many tradgangers in NY. who should be able to help with live interaction. if you post some video ill do what i can. :bigsmyl: :campfire:
Sounds like they are too weak a spine for a 52#@28 Predator even with a 125 gr. point.I shoot 600 spine carbons out of my bows 45# and less.You can try to build out the side plate some and see how they hit.
my 58in predator 51@28
will shoot a lot of different spined arrows very well
what is your draw length
how thick is your side plate
i shoot gt 55-75s out of mine
but i draw real close to 30 in
30 3/4 length with 225 up front they bare shaft a touch weak but fly real well with field tips or broadheads
kevin
JMO..Is this a Pittsley Predator? If so these bows are very High performance, It sounds like your Arrows are under spined. You need to try a .500 or even a .400
What is your brace height set at? A good starting point on that bow is about 7 1/2"
I take it your a right hand shooter?
Rob..
Assuming you're right handed, I would go with the advice of building out the side/strike plate.
It's hard for me to understand how you still shoot right when trying stiffer spined arrows. :confused: :dunno:
I'm shooting the same weight Predator and I shoot 29.25", 500 spine, MFX Classic Bemans with 250 grains on the tip end but I have a relatively short 26.75" draw length. I still had to build out my side plate too. When my string stretches, resulting in a lower brace height, my bare shaft goes left because of it acting stiffer so I have to twist my string to get it back on track. So, your brace will have some effect on spine too.
It is possible there is a form issue that is causing the arrow to bounce off the edge of the shelf.Sometimes a high elbow on the drawing arm can cause downward pressure with the top finger,on the arrow and that can cause the arrow to bounce of the shelf.If it were a form issue,that would explain different head weights and spines not curing the problem.
Try using a different tab/glove. I have found that some cause me to hit right/left different than others.
Lots of good advise here..Adding to what "JimB" has said above, A common form issue which plagues me from time to time is "collapsing" before the release and dropping the Bow arm. or trying to watch the Arrow in flight. On both issues the Arrows will hit at 10:00 o-clock or 1:00 o-clock.
Rob..
Thanks for the responses! I tried most of them, including different tabs. I am not new to recurves and have shot them since 98. That is not to say that I have perfect form, cause I sure don't. But, I have won my share of 3D shoots and can pretty much tell when I have a bad release or have some other "form" related issue. What has me stumped is that ALL the arrows I tried hit to the right. They fly well, but hit to the right. I tried taking the riser material off and putting on a piece of teflon tape to bring the arrow closer to the riser. That worked to some extent, but made the bow noisier, something I don't want for hunsting. I put the riser material (velcro) back on the riser and trimmed it as close as I could. (Gave it a hair cut in effect!) Better, but not much. Building the riser out will make it shoot even further to the right, won't it?
Mike
Have you tried to build out the sideplate?
If not take nail size piece of a match under the sideplate. I use it on my recurve 50@30.5 and it really helped me out !
Also try to hold the bow just in the area between the thumb and index finger and twist the wrist as you are pointing and lock them together in front to see if that helps(if you torque the bow)
Margly
Double sided carpet tape. You can get a lifetime supply from Lowe's for about $10. Just keep adding layers until it moves the arrow far enough left.
Winterhawk1960
QuoteOriginally posted by MikeS:
Building the riser out will make it shoot even further to the right, won't it?
Mike
Only if you're a LEFT handed shooter.
Mike you are going the wrong way with the side plate thickness as others have suggested. Unless you are shooting left handed. Good luck...Van
Thanks for all the information guys. I will try building out the side plate and let you know what I find out.
Thanks again.
Mike
QuoteOriginally posted by MikeS:
Thanks for all the information guys. I will try building out the side plate and let you know what I find out.
Thanks again.
Mike
Yep I`ll think that will give you a push in the right direction :archer2:
I shoot a Pittsley Anniversay 52# @ 28" but I have a 26" draw (the bow draws 47 pounds)and I shoot 27.5" Beeman MFX Classic 600's with th 75 grain inserts and 100 grain broadheads. When my form is correct this arrow shoots perfect windage with field tips and broadheads (out to the distances I shoot of 14-25 yards). I'm left-eye dominant so I shoot a LH bow. However, when I get tired or careless I experience right arrows. For me this is corrected by two things: 1). Make sure my bow grip is relaced during the shot. 2). Make sure my bowarm is active during the shot which allows the bowarm to freely move forward and to the right and down during follow-through. I suspect you are a RH shooter (Sorry I didn't catch this in your posts). If so, you would get a right arrow if you draw hand moves away from your face during followthrough. The hand should stay along the face, slide under the ear, and the thumb should be on or near the shoulder at the conclusion of follow through if you back was in the shot. At least, when I shoot right or left these are the form issues I must reflect upon and correct.
I built out the side plate and it seems better. I'll know for sure when I can bring it up to the range and wing a few at further yardages. Thanks again!
Mike
Excellent advice point from Bowwild...Van
I have fought this for about two years. If you got the right arrow,,,then it's you. Like me there is some glitch in your form. I can usually clear it up by making sure I continue the draw and follow through as mentioned above. If I settle in to a static anchor, I begin to creep,loose control of my front hand and the shot goes right.
Hey Guys,
I tried a bunch of your suggestions and a few of my own ideas and nothing seemed to work. I knew it wasn't my form becuase I can usually tell when I screwed up and it happened with every arrow I shot, no matter what length, weight, spine etc. I even added extra string silencers in hopes that would help. Then as a last resort I tried shooting a glove instead of my tab. BINGO! Problem solved! Now, if they fly to the right it is because I screwed up the shot. Thanks for all the help and suggestions. I guess shooting a glove changes my anchor point just enough to make the difference.
Mike
Oddly enough, I find I shoot better with a glove these days. Many years ago I thought I shot better with a tab (however I didn't give the glove much of a chance). The tab makes more sense to me than a glove (multiple contacts with a glove vs. one big one with a tab). I like the glove better than the tab -- I'm glad it works for me -- and you!