just wondering what spine range you have settled with for a 54-55# recurve? i've tried everything from 40-45# to 60-65# at my minimum length with a 90gr point and still seem weak.
the thing that has me fooled is that they shoot way to the left which would suggest they are stiff. but yesterday with the 60-65# at minimum length i tried it with point weights of 190gr, 90gr and no point at all. as i dropped in point weight it shoot closer to where i was aiming but still left. could they be grossly weak as to show as though they were stiff?
what surewood doug fir 11/32" shafts are you shooting and what is the piont weight you are using? i draw 28" to the deepest part of the grip.
thanks
Mate,
with my Lee i drew 27" and pulled 51# - 52 # . I used 55-60's with 160gn's attached cut at 28 1/2 ..flew like darts.
with field points i could get away with some variation for stumping and bunny busting but for Deer arrows my 55-60's shot just dandy. Pity 'bout the bloke behind me bow but !
let us know how you go .
cheers
Ben
I shoot 65-70"s my draw is 26" and my bows are 50# @ 26" 145-160 heads close to 600 grain finished arrow usually cut to 28-28.5"work very well and they are the sure woods. Good luck.
My son's 55# Blacktail shoots 60-65 spine cut at 28" with 125gr points, and fly perfect. The arrows are fletched with three 5" shield's.
QuoteOriginally posted by Tree Killer:
My son's 55# Blacktail shoots Surewood doug fir 60-65 spine cut at 28" with 125gr points, and fly perfect. The arrows are fletched with three 5" shield's.
I'm shooting a 54# St Joe recurve - 60/65 surewood @ 28.5 BOP and 125 grains with 3/5" shields.
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Glenn
What point weight do you want to shoot? Hunt with? I have a couple of Blacktails that are 54# and 55#. I like broadheads that are 145gr and 160gr. With the 160gr. 80#-85# tune great. Infact, the first bow I bought from Norm he had me go outside his shop with some 80#-85#'s and try the bow out. I was amazed that those heavy spined shafts flew so great!
But back to your recurve. How is the shelf cut? Is it to center, 1/8", 3/16", past center?
Did you hand spine those arrows?
Shoot one with no weight at all. I think you are too weak in spine.
I would go at least 70# if it is a modern day recurve and a shelf cut pretty close to center.
You didn't mention how long your arrows are except to say "at my minimum length". Anyway I shoot 45#-50# Longbows and the same poundage Recurves. My draw measured from the back of the riser is 27.5" and my arrows are 28.5" back of point, 125 grn heads. I shoot both FF and Dacron strings. For FF I use 50-55 and for Dacron I use 45-50. If the arrows are not flying true I have found that I can usually play with the brace height of the bow to dial them in. I am by no means an expert however this works for me. Good luck.
Clint, how deep the shelf is cut will have a big effect on spine needs. For a 125 gr point and starting with a bow cut to center, add 10 lbs plus 5 lbs for each inch or arrow over 28. So, 55 lb + 10 + 5 = 70 lb static spine.
If the shelf is cut deeper, (past center) and/or you add point weight, you will need to go up in spine.
In my experience, you can get stiff to show a false weak, but not the other way round.
sorry, my minimum arrow length is 29 1/4" BOP.
not sure what point weight i'm going to shoot as
they are for stone points.
the last 8 or so stone pointed arrows i made for my 69# limbs all have points of varying weights. this led me to tuning each individual arrow, a pain in the butt!
i'm done with doing that now and i want to make some stone pointed arrows for the 54#'er.
this time i'll find a shaft that shoots well with a total weight of around 600gr then make the stone points to match the weight of the field point that was used to tune them.
not sure of the centershot. whatever a standard bob lee is plus about a 1/16" of leather strike plate.
they haven't been hand spined. i just bought a test pack in 5# groups.
i'm certain i'm underspined as some of you guys are shooting 60-65# shafts at 28" BOP. i can't cut mine that short.
looks like i need to get another test pack with stiffer shafts.
thanks guys.
Clint, I suggest around 80#.
One of the old time arrow makers told me for 28" draw, he starts with bow weight and adds 12 lbs. Example; 47#bow plus 12# equals 59# spine shaft and with the heavy points I use I would go to 60-65# shafts? I draw 28" and cut the shaft 29". Ken
When in doubt, go a little stiffer than you think. I agree with Don Stokes that it would be around 80#, depending on which point you use.
I concur with Fletcher, I've had overly stiff show weak but never the other way around. You can try building out your side plate and see what happens, a little bit can make a big difference and if your arrows really are weak it should create an improvement.
Generally speaking here is the formula. For a center shot recurve at 28" add 10# for spine. For every inch over 28" add 5# in spine. Using a modern fast flite type of string add 5# of spine. For every 25grains over 125 grains add 5# of spine. So here you are....for your basic set up start with an arrow spined at 65-70. Fast flite....make it 70-75. For 29.5 inch draw I would add 10# so you are now at 80-85 spine. That should do it for a 125 grain point. Add a heavier point...add more spine.
I'm shooting a Morrison Cheyenne 59# @ 28" with a 29" arrow and a 145 gr point. I went with 80-84 surewoods. If I do my part with the release they fly real nice!
This is bow and shooter dependant. I have a 74# R/D longbow at 28" with a 450+ 12 strand string. I use 29" 110-115# tapered surewood with a 190 grain tip. For your bow I would start with 80-85# shafts. The spine charts were set for bows nowhere near center cut, and 4% stretch B50 strings. Even linen is lower stretch than B50.
Gang, would like to bring this up again.
Seeing that dang big Woodie thread got me wanting to build some more arrows. But I've been shooting the same cedars through so many bows the last 5-10 years, I kinda forgot some critical info on them. I had a big stockpile of raw shafts, all done now.
I would like to try making up some of these Surewood Douglas firs, to get a bit heavier than my usual POC tapereds.
Bow is Morrison Cheyenne 44#
My draw is 28.25"
My current arrows are cut to 29.75" and fly very well.
String is XCEL, 12 strands.
Shooting split fingers.
Always use 125gr points & broadheads
Fletching is always 3 5inch hiback shields.
What spine range and what test kit should I be looking at ?
How do these fir arrows compare with straightness, and keeping them straight? Years ago I tried some laminated birch, but I couldn't keep them straight. I made quite a few tapered cedars, and have excellent success with straightness issues.
I have a drill powered Tapertool, hopefully they will cut these ok? Any grain tear-out issues?
Do these come marked for spine cock feather orientation? Is it necessary?
I see the Surewood site is out of some of the common 11/32 spines, so I may end up at Braveheart Archery, per the good reviews. Any other input regarding Surewoods is appreciated.
Lots of questions! Thanks! :thumbsup:
Mark, I'm thinking your Morrison is cut past center. Figuring quickly, I come up with a 69 lb spine, so I'd start at 65 and go up from there. If cut just to center, go lighter in spine.
Im shooting the same setup as you and mine also strike to the left even though they appear to have perfect flight. My experiance is that the spine is too weak, try 70 #.