Just wondering what everyones thoughts are on how sharp a broadhead should be to ethically take game. I know alot of folks preach razor sharp but ive heard of the Fred Bear edge which from my understanding it was sharp enough to cut hair but no shave (correct me if im wrong). I know folks take game with stone points are they razor sharp or just sharp enough to kill?
As sharp as you can get them. I know some people struggle with it, just takes practice. I won't shoot em until they at the least cut hair.
I know a smooth 'razor edge' will dull quicker in a quiver than the rougher 'Fred Bear' edge.
I spend atol of time getting mine razor sharp with a stone and leather strop. My buddy Mark hits his with a file only. We both kill alot of critters. So I guess I have nothing that helps
:deadhorse:
Here we go again. Man, is it hunting season yet?
Mine shave when they go into my BQ. How long they stay hair shaving sharp is the question. Checked per one or two days, touch up or sharpened as needed.
can't get them too sharp.
The question is not so much "how sharp to kill"?... a BH doesn't need to be sharp at all in order to kill. The reason many of us are fanatical about the level of BH sharpness has more to do with game recovery. All else being equal, the sharper the head, the better the bloodtrail will be and the better our chances of getting the animal loaded in the truck will be too. (which is the real goal, right)? Stone (knapped) heads are wicked sharp BTW and as my buddy Jake always says: "I never lost an animal because my BH was too sharp".
Ron
check this link out plenty of opinion on this.
http://tradgang.com/noncgi/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=1;t=084135#000000
QuoteOriginally posted by Sharpster:
as my buddy Jake always says: "I never lost an animal because my BH was too sharp".
Ron
:thumbsup: :thumbsup:
:deadhorse:
Sorry guys not trying to beat a dead horse I was just wondering mainly because I got 2 blades to cut hair but not quite shave. Thats why I was asking about the Fred Bear edge and if my broadheads were sharp enough to do the job ethically.
Keep sharpening, I use the rubber band jig and push them through that.
Get you a KME knife or broadhead sharpener and we can end this thread, haha !!!
I got my first hand look at Compton this year and I am saving my nickels for one now. I will mainly use it for all my knives and tools and some two blades. I use a file, stone, and leather pad for my Snuffers and WW's and they have no trouble shaving. The KME is an awesome tool IMHO.
For me it is "will they shave hair off my leg"
A blunt through both lungs will kill, but getting them really sharp is best for hunter and the hunted.
I don't stop until they're truly shaving sharp...for 2 blades there's truly no better system then the RazorSharp Edgemaking System that you attach to a bench grinder. It takes 2-3 minutes at most to get a 2 blade to a shaving edge when you have it down.
Craig
Thanks for all the tips guys. I spent some time today hitting my heads with a 6" bastard file and diamond hone. Finnaly am starting to see some shaving results!!! Must be getting the hang of it FINNALY!!! :)
Personally, I shoot either Zwickey Eskimos or Ribteks and get them shaving sharp. Most use too much file pressure when sharpening and take too much material off the head. Use light strokes at a low angle and when the edge begins to take shape use a higher angle. Then finisht it off with either a leather strap or crock stick. They should be able to shave hair off your leg or arms, which is sharp enough for a short recovery.
Best of luck.