I just stepped in from bareshafting and they're grouping with my fletched arrows! Awesome!
...except that the bareshafts are angled about 30 degrees up from the fletched arrows. Is this a nock point problem or is this common?
I'm shooting 29" Gold Tip Expedition Hunters with a 125gr screw in point at about 12yds.
So far so good now continue to bareshaft out to your max range that you intend to shoot ( at least 20 yds)to get a better idea of how they are tuned. I think some of it could be because you are so close but to be honest I don't pay any attention to how the stick the target as long as they are together.
You need to determine whether the nock-high is a result of the nock point being too high, or a result of the shaft bouncing off the shelf. Start with a nock point way too high, say 3/4" for split fingers, or 1" for 3 under, and work your way down maybe 1/8 or 1/16" at a time. You should notice the nock-high decrease as you move down. Hopefully, you will arrive at a point that is just slightly nock high, say 10 degrees, and that will be good. However, if you lower the nock point and don't notice any reduction in nock-high, it means the shaft is bouncing off the shelf and you have to move the nock point back up some. The feathers will easily correct a little true nock-high, but arrow flight will be erratic if the nock-high is due to deflection of the arrow shaft off the shelf.
I wouldn't worry about nock high with a bareshaft if it's slight. After you fletch them up you can fine tune the nocking point if necessary. If you still have a problem do what McDave said...Van
QuoteOriginally posted by drewsbow:
So far so good now continue to bareshaft out to your max range that you intend to shoot ( at least 20 yds)to get a better idea of how they are tuned. I think some of it could be because you are so close but to be honest I don't pay any attention to how the stick the target as long as they are together.
Exactly.
So, I worked my way down from 3/4" to 1/8" and noticed there wasn't much difference from 3/8" to 1/8". 3/8" seemed to look the best (still maybe about 20 or 25 degrees) so I think I'm going with that. Broke a nock clean off in the process...so, I'm happy. :D
As always, thanks for the help gentlemen. :thumbsup:
When bare shafting you want to make sure you take care of the nock point first. If your bare shaft is grouping with a fletch shaft then you are basically there. However, you can take it one step further. Take a look at how the shaft is entering the target. If you are still getting nock left for right hand shooter, try trimming the bare shaft down some so you get it to almost go straight in. Basically so it is within an 0-1.5" from dead center. Keep the shaft slightly weak. Once the arrow is fletched they will be dead on. The fletching will stiffen the shaft.
Mike
Mike
If you can't get it any lower than 20-25 degrees, it may be because you are pressing down on the nock with your forefinger at full draw, causing a bow in the arrow. When you release the arrow, the bow springs up and causes the arrow to leave the bow nock-high. You might try lowering your drawing elbow so that your forearm is more in line with the arrow, which may reduce the pressure of your forefinger on the nock of the arrow. Sometimes the same thing can be caused by a string hand that is not relaxed. Usually, the string hand is not relaxed because you are drawing the bow too much with your arms and not enough with your back muscles.
Mike, they're grouping fine but end up in the target as if I'm shooting from a ladder or something. I've cut three to exact length. I'll play around with the others, leaving them 1/4" longer to weaken them just a tad and see how that goes. Thanks.
Hm...thanks Dave. My elbow does have a tendency to float up from time to time. I'll check on it tomorrow when I get the chance.
very simple fletch em up an install a big wide brawd head and see if they still group im thinkin they will.
To cure the nock point issue, try setting the nock point so you are nocking the arrow above it rather than under it. If you are having a tendency to push on the arrow at full draw this will keep the arrow from moving down.
Mike
I got a chance to shoot at 20yds and the bareshafts straightened out a lot! Good call, Drew! Interesting how they were angled at 12yds but alright at 20. What a difference 8yds can make! I also upped my poundage and now they're darts! Thanks for all the help!
Ken Beck told me to put a nocking pt above and below. Worked for me. He has some comment concerning this on the BW video.
Bowmania
great thread> I to have nock high issues. and have settled on a nock set at 1/2in and with feathers all is well.
Good stuff here ya'll! Hey MSWickard...your advice worked like a CHAMP! I just got a new bow and I have just about wore out a brass nock moving it up and down on my string. It didn't seem to matter what I did, I still had some porpoising. I tried different spine arrows, changed point weights, shelf material, etc. But when I nocked above the nock, BINGO! That took care of it. Now I just gotta remember to nock ABOVE.....Thanks for the great advice.
QuoteOriginally posted by Bowmania:
Ken Beck told me to put a nocking pt above and below. Worked for me. He has some comment concerning this on the BW video.
Bowmania
I'd try that - I believe it to be a form issue but this should work