Trad Gang

Ive always shot WW and have had some great results using them, but I can only get them soso sharp. My question is, I have some Zwickey 2 blades that I can get scarey sharp, but I am hesitant to using them because of all the negative press 2 blades get on blood trails. I hunt in south Alabama and where I hunt, the woods are very, very thick almost jungle like. Im not trying to start a 2 bld. vs. 3 bld. tread, only want your opinions of what you would do.

I would go with the 2blade... I use both, But in the last few years, with the help of a KME sharpener, I love 2 blades... Never lost a deer with a 2 blade, lots of blood trail, and tough as nails when ive hit bone

scary sharp, what ever you use. I can get a three blade just as sharp as a two blade, if it shaves hair it is as sharp as it will get. do not know how you would tell if an edge was sharper than shaving sharp.

Go with what you can get the sharpest. I used Snuffers for a long time and had great luck with them on whitetails. Getting them sharp was tricky.
I've switched to 2 blades because I can get a better edge on them. Last fall I took a few deer with the Muzzy Phantoms which did a great job for blood trailing.

Scary sharp trumps everything else.  

Scary sharp = penetration = blood trail = recovered dead animal.

Hit location and full penetration or lack there of determines the quality and quantity of blood trail you get.  The number of blades on your broadhead is low on the list for optimizing blood trails.  Far more important are perfect arrow flight, razor sharp heads, and the shooting skills to put the arrow in the boiler room.

You could check out our single bevel 3-blades. Because they are single bevel the angle is much sharper than a double bevel. Kinda the best of both worlds  :)

Has any one used steel force phlat head need info,thinking about buying some for elk trip,I like the idea of sharp out of the package ....

Think about this.What will bleed more,a five inch cut from a barbwire fence or a one inch cut from a razorblade?  :saywhat:    :saywhat:    :saywhat:

I've killed a bunch of animals with a 'scary' sharp 3 blade Wensel Woodsman......but I wouldn't hunt with a soso sharp nothin.          

I shoot Magnus 2 blade Stingers and they are great.  It's easy enough to get them razor sharp.  They fly great, too.

You can also get them with bleeder blades.

They also have a lifetime warranty.

What's not to like?

I used to use Snuffers but these are easier and i have noticed no difference in effectiveness.

I will take scary sharp over so-so sharp anytime.

Thanks for all the advise. I just ordered some zwickey delta's with the bleeders. Maybe the 2 blades with the small bleeders will be a good compromise. I should be able to get these just as sharp as 2 blade zwickeys. Does anyone have a tip on sharpening the non-removeable bleeder?

If you want a 3 blade just learn how to sharpen it.
Might take a while to learn but any skill worth having does. just my 2¢.

If you can sharpen a knife,try a Muzzy Phantom both blades are removeable.4 blades scary sharp.

Here ya go flounder.....  

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Whether it be 2 blade or 3 blade, I will find a way to get them shaving sharp or I won't hunt with them. Period.

For me I find 3 blades the easiest to get razor/scary sharp.  I have been using Razorcaps for several years now and nothing I have killed have I needed a bloodtrail for as everything has gone down in sight. The reason I say they are the easiest is the simple fact that you do not need any jigs to get them that way. I have never been able to get a 2 blade as sharp as I would like unless I used a KME or a Razor Edge jig. I can get woodsmans as sharp but I believe the steel in the RC's is of a slightly higher quality and they maintain an edge better. I can't speak about the newer  VPA/Woodsmans as I  have none to "play" with and the steel in the newer ones may be a bit better.  But....all of the animals I have killed with 2 blades died quickly, but as I have said on other posts I have yet to have a bloodtrail like the ones I get with multiblade heads.

Having said that, if you can get the two blades sharper by all means, then, they should be your heads of choice.

Scary sharp on ALL broadheads.

I watched Terry's four blade sharpening thread, I picked up some good tips, I made this shot with a 45# Bear Grizzly about 12-15 yards complete pass through. This head was shaving hair off my arm before it went into my  quiver   :thumbsup:  

  (http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y275/420W/IM000290.jpg)

  (http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y275/420W/IM000299.jpg)

who sez you can't get a woodsman to be scary sharp?  who wants to dare run a finger on my woodsman blades?  huh?  double dare ya!   :nono:    :D

If you can get a 2 blade shaving sharp you can get a 3 blade equally sharp. You just need to practice. Way to go Rob!    :thumbsup:

I'm sorry fellas... But a 30 Degree edge CAN  NEVER get as sharp as a 17 degree.. It is physically impossible.
Can you get a 3blade sharp?? Some can get them "pretty sharp"? Can you get it as sharp as a Good Steal 2 Blade ??? Never.
Of course the def. of sharp is subjective anyway.

i can also get a woodsman point to be pin prick scary sharp, but it ain't as good as beveling the point back and not have it so fragile sharp.

i can easily get a woodsman to shave hair off my arm.  anyone can, too.  i dunno that a blade needs to be sharper than that.  'nuff said.    :thumbsup:  

i'm also very careful with a freshly sharpened broadhead - i wax the blades and carefully nestle it into a leather bonnet.  i see too many bowhunters get a head sharpened nicely and then throw it about willy nilly ... uh uh, that's a big no-no in my bowhunting book.       :nono:

It would also be "easier" to shoot a compound than a recurve or longbow - a guy decides what bow he wants to shoot, for whatever reason, then takes the time/effort/work to become proficient.

Same with broadheads - choose the one you want to use, for whatever reason, and then take the time to learn how to sharpen it.  If you are unable or unwilling to do that, again for whatever reason, then your best bet is a replaceable blade head, or presharpened, or pay someone else to do it.

To say that one head is "better" because it is "easier" to sharpen is silly.  I can make a Snuffer (3-blade) sharp enough for you to shave your beard with - and I have arrows hanging on my wall that went THROUGH animals 15-20 years ago that I haven't touched other than to oil them up to keep from rusting that I can shave hair off my arm with.  Fortunately, the animals I hunt don't have access to the internet yet, and to date have been willing to die when I shoot those shaving sharp broadheads through them.

Ryan

I have been able to get 2 and 3 blade heads sharp enough to shave with.

If you can get one sharper then use that head; but if you work at it a bit you can get either a 2 or 3 blade scary sharp.

Also; Robs point about the treatment of the freshly sharpened head is spot on.

:scared:sharp 2 blade only way to fly

rob can you walk us thru your sharpening technique?

:deadhorse:

I file sharpen woodsmans and snuffers. I drag them backwards on a piece of leather and kill stuff. I think the file sharpened head stays sharp after the first cut through hide and hair where the super scapel edge may dull some. Regardless...My file sharpened heads kill stuff.RC

QuoteOriginally posted by LITTLEBIGMAN:
rob can you walk us thru your sharpening technique?

i dunno what all the fuss is about 3 blade heads and sharpness.  it's easier to do than a twin blade and 3 blade woodsman and snuffers have killed some mighty big critters with pass-through penetration.

see charlie lamb\\'s woodsman sharpening vids (http://tradgang.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=2;t=000096)

how i like to sharpen my woodsmans and snuffers:

belt sander and 80 grit to level out any concaveness in the blades ... when leveled, tilt the head to make the needle point into a bone penetrating pyramid point ... 12" grobet file to raise a burr... coarse diamond file or stone to kill the burr ... fine diamond file or stone for honing... final honing by stropping on the chromed side of a thick piece of leather with maybe a bit of jeweler's red rouge rubbed in.  

this process goes real fast and the resulting cutting edges will shave arm hair.  if ya don't have a belt sander, it will just take longer for the file to level the blades but it will do the job.  once the blades are leveled any future sharpening will be easy in the field with a 6" grobet file and dmt diamond fine file.

hope this helps dispel any myth about tri blades not being able to get 'scary sharp'.

Shooting any so so sharp broadhead is BAD judgement

QuoteOriginally posted by RC:
I file sharpen woodsmans and snuffers. I drag them backwards on a piece of leather and kill stuff. I think the file sharpened head stays sharp after the first cut through hide and hair where the super scapel edge may dull some. Regardless...My file sharpened heads kill stuff.RC

Yup!

I'm with everyone else here, I would rather have a extremely sharp broadhead over a so-so sharp one any day of the week.

QuoteOriginally posted by Eugene Slagle:
I'm with everyone else here, I would rather have a extremely sharp broadhead over a so-so sharp one any day of the week.

i think we're all totally in agreement with yer statement above, but the topic wasn't about that per se ... the topic starter was qeustioning that 3 blades can't get as 'scary sharp' as twin blades - and i take real strong issue with that comment.

That's exactly what I do too Rob minus the belt sander.  It doesn't take long at all.

I believe as Charlie says, "Hunt sharp."

QuoteI'm with everyone else here, I would rather have a extremely sharp broadhead over a so-so sharp one any day of the week.

X10   :thumbsup:   Make mine a 2 blade.

Scary sharp and 3 blades, yes gents....you can have both    :thumbsup:

QuoteOriginally posted by Rob DiStefano:
 

QuoteOriginally posted by Eugene Slagle:
I'm with everyone else here, I would rather have a extremely sharp broadhead over a so-so sharp one any day of the week.

i think we're all totally in agreement with yer statement above, but the topic wasn't about that per se ... the topic starter was qeustioning that 3 blades can't get as 'scary sharp' as twin blades - and i take real strong issue with that comment. [/b]

i don't think he meant that it can't be done. i think he was asking more for general experience with 2-blades.

QuoteOriginally posted by Terry Green:
Here ya go flounder.....  

CLICK HERE (http://tradgang.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=2;t=000031)  

Hey Terry, where can you pick up a triangular file like the one you suggest in the video?

I've been using Bear Razorhead 2 blade with and without the bleeders for years, and get them 'scary' sharp, and have had excellent luck using them either way, with or without the bleeders.

as mentioned b4, i have no issues with getting woodsman broadheads razor sharp.  

now, not at all to debate the attributes of twin blades versus multi blades, but since i can get a tri blade 'scary sharp', here's why i prefer 'em ....

of the last 2 hogs i killed, the little one was done in with a tusker concorde twin blade and the much larger hog met its fate with a woodsman.  

the concorde put a slit through both sides of the pig, through the both lungs, would have been a pass through if the ground wasn't in the way, and killed it stone dead within 2 minutes.  however, the woodsman was a complete pass through, blew a hole through both sides of the hog the size of a quarter, and not in the best of spots - angled gut shot, and maybe got a piece of one lung - but the blood trail was significant and relatively easy to follow.  

this is why i prefer multi blade heads - devastating cutting power and big blood tracking drip holes.

To answer your question, I'll take the scary sharp two-blade. Heck, I'll take the sharp two-blade over a sharp three-blade even. But, that's just me.

Shoot what works, just as long as it's sharp.

I'd go with scary sharp. I shot a nice buck two years ago, but hit him a little far back. The arrow zipped through fast and clean, he didn't know he was hit. He ran maybe 15 yards and stopped to look around, giving me a second shot. I think if the broadhead was so-so sharp, it may not have passed through, resulting in him running off, and perhaps not found.