I am going to mount glue on broadheads to screw in adapters, anyone recommend a particular glue and technique to get them them to spin true?
I just use a hot melt,the same as I use on glue-on points.I don't use Ferr-l-lite,I use the white colored hot melt(no name) from 3Rivers.It is stronger the Ferr-l-lite and stay more pliable and not brittle.
Curt Cabrera uses a certain hot melt used on pipe lines.
Other than that I use epoxy.
For steel to steel nothing works better than JB Weld. That's what it is designed for.
I like the original JB weld. I had trouble with the clear amber stick hot melt being to brittle in colder weather, lower 20's and colder.
JB WELD... gives time to adjust, if necessary, and flat out, will not come apart, even under heat..
I use hot melt so I can move the point for best orientation to the shaft. Never had one come off.
How does one apply the JB weld so that it does not glob up on one side making it wobble. Do you just add some on the tip of the adapter and then insert and spin for a few seconds?
I screw the adapter on the shaft first, then wipe the JB Weld into the adapter grooves and then screw the BH on hard, to make sure it is seated all the way. Then wipe the excess off with my finger, followed by a alcohol rag to get it real clean. You can then spin them and still adjust, although usually not necessary.
PS: put a bunch on so there is squeeze out when you put the BH on. Easy to wipe off and the weight will be evenly distributed.
THanks Buckwheat, i will definatly do that, now i got to get my inserts from coming out of my goldtips, I am going to try to score them on the inside and then glue them in with Ferrilite.
Welcome Longspur. I use the wire brush w/ alcohol, followed w/a q-tip in my shafts.(not sure if it scores them but cleans them well) Ferrilite will probably work, I use the white glue gun melt (walmart) stolen from the wife's craft box,I've heard that it is less brittle than ferrilite, not sure if true but it works well..
I did not even think about that. My wife has one also. I will give that a try and see how it works. Thanks.
I hold the insert w/ pliers and heat it w/ a butane torch and then wipe the hot melt all around it, then fan it a very little in the way out flame and then shove it home and let it cool naturally, not dunking it. when it's set but still warm/hot I use my finger to wipe off the extra. I've heard that you don't want to bubble the hot melt so when you do the fanning it in the way out flame, it doesn't take much.
Also clean the inside of the furrel with acetone....as well as the adapters. Glue doesn't stick well to machine oil.
Thanks fellows, thought this was interesting, i called a hot glue gun manufacterer and asked a technician what he would use on steel/carbon or aluminum/carbon for inserts and steel adapter to broadheads and he recommended some type of industrial strength stuff that they sell with one of his glue guns, total cost was like 30 bucks for 100 sticks. He said it would be very workable as far as time setting them and easy to apply. Also said it would be super strong. Might give it a try.
that kimsha stick from three rivers is the best hot melt ive ever used and it's rated for super cold to super hot weather conditions
Tom Parsons (Kimsha) knows his stuff.. I'll have to try his stick hot melt..