is there a snake skin build along on this site? I have done it once. Some use ace bandages and some do not. Also do you trim the skins closer to the approximate size ?
Try typing in Paul Brunner.com in the internet,I believe there is instructions on snakeskin installation.I think I saw it there.Have you checked out the how-to section here,maybe something there too.
I have instructions I got from Paul 15 years ago and have used many many times....or PM me and I will cut and paste them for you or send by email. I just gave them to someone to use on stickbow last month.
Ron,
Thanks! email sent.
Her you go. I used this and it worked out perfectly. It was suggested to me by several others NOT to use the superglue over the entire skin though.
http://tradgang.com/noncgi/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=2;t=000062#000000
A.S. How come. I just followed those instructions for the first time and have just finnished the first layer of Super Glue.Besides comming just seconds away from needing surgery to seperate two fingers lol, it seems fine. Just wondering.
Tom
I was told by someone that tried the supergle that it made his skins look milky. I applied 4 coats of Tru-oil then sprayed a couple coats of Satin Spa Urathane to cut down the shine.
Mine turned out awesome!!
(http://i172.photobucket.com/albums/w3/bowcrazy_photos/riserandsnakelimbs.jpg)
Has anyone else noticed the super glue making the skins look milk?
Were they dry out good . I had some that where wet and they were milky looking after I put them on .
Hey guy,
What bow are you skinning?
Dan
i would not use super glue....just good old wood glue. if you ever have to put new skins on you just remove the outer layer of urathane you used to seal the skins and bow...and water cleans up the wood glue. With super glue it is a permanent bond and could ruin the bow I would think.
stick with the tried and true....the skins on my Jeffery have been there for years through heat and cold and rain and snow....my second or third set on that particular bow since 1993.
keep em sharp,
ron herman
Hey guys, I wrote up that How To a little over 5 yrs ago. As for the CA glue, I guess if I had to do it over again I'd omit the CA glue step and try Tru-oil or just varathane the skins as Paul Brunner does. I have to say my skins did loose color which I think is from the CA. However, they still look good. When I get home I'll post up a photo of them.
Lastly, the CA glue was not used to adhere the skin to the limbs. It was just applied to the surface of the skin.
Mike
I had my snake skins put on but I was told to tru-oil once in a while. That tru-oil makes them look brand new.
It's in the video I'm making right now, but for now here are a few tips.
Take the dry skins and put them in a cup of water. Let them get soaked and soft. Towel dry them so they aren't dripping wet.
Put the bow in a vice or something to hold them.
I use titebond II but you can use Titebond III just remember that III dries faster, but it's water proof.
Lay the skin on the glue and work down it with your finger. You can push the excess glue out the side but most importantly be sure and work any air bubbles out. I do trim it a little but you want it hanging over the edge so you can pull on that to help stretch it tight. With the skin wet you can stretch it out nice. You don't have to wrap it but you can if you like, Just be sure not to move the skin if you wrap it. I don't wrap them now.
After it dries you can trim it to your likes.
Hope this helps.
I trim them before they are dry. And I use several coats of poly after they are dried, sanded, and steel wooled along the edges.
OK I have one quick question wher to buy skins?
DD
Pine hollow long bows, there A SPONSOR! I just got a great pair of diamondbacks from him in the mail just a few mintes ago.
Thanks I will get a pair ordered up !!
DD