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Main Boards => PowWow => Topic started by: coaster500 on May 15, 2010, 10:02:00 AM

Title: matching field tip to broadhead w-wood
Post by: coaster500 on May 15, 2010, 10:02:00 AM
I have a question. The other day I was fooling around and decided to see how an Abowyer Brown Bear would shoot on a 23/64 Spruce shaft. I was surprised to find out that the combo flew perfect without changing anything except for removing the field tip and gluing on the Brown Bear. These arrows have been sitting unused until I got my Black Creek 43# re-hab bow.

My question is in my searching I cannot find 175 grain field points? I found 160, 190 but not 175? I have 18 of these arrows and they are really nice custom shafts.

Any body know where you can get 23/64 175 grain glue on points?
Title: Re: matching field tip to broadhead w-wood
Post by: Kenneth on May 15, 2010, 10:08:00 AM
Kip,  I've never seen 175gr. glue-ons but they may be out there.  Both the 160gr. and 190gr. are close enough in weight to the 175gr. that you shouldn't notice much of a difference, but  I would use the 160gr. because it's very close in weight and in my experience broadheads usually hit a little higher than my field points at long yardages so the lighter field point should be very close in trajectory to the 175gr.
Title: Re: matching field tip to broadhead w-wood
Post by: robtattoo on May 15, 2010, 10:09:00 AM
I'd go with the 190's.
A broadhead of the same weight as a field tip will weaken the dynamic spine slightly more due to the extra length.
15-25gn difference in favor of the field tip should pretty much equal the difference.
Title: Re: matching field tip to broadhead w-wood
Post by: Kenneth on May 15, 2010, 10:18:00 AM
QuoteOriginally posted by robtattoo:
I'd go with the 190's.
A broadhead of the same weight as a field tip will weaken the dynamic spine slightly more due to the extra length.
15-25gn difference in favor of the field tip should pretty much equal the difference.
Never thought about the extra length weakening the spine a little but it does make sense.
Title: Re: matching field tip to broadhead w-wood
Post by: coaster500 on May 15, 2010, 10:28:00 AM
I'll buy some 190's first and try them out. I've got just about every weight you can get in screw ins but only 125gr glue on.

Thanks for the help...
Title: Re: matching field tip to broadhead w-wood
Post by: Bjorn on May 15, 2010, 10:44:00 AM
I think Rob is exactly right, and that's what I'm doing too.......190 FP to practice with, and use the Brown Bears for hunting.
Title: Re: matching field tip to broadhead w-wood
Post by: anchorman on May 15, 2010, 12:04:00 PM
One thing you can do is to take lead shot and weigh what you need then put it inside your tip then when you heat up the glue the shot will melt and flow around the shaft like glue does and you will have your weight.
Title: Re: matching field tip to broadhead w-wood
Post by: Orion on May 15, 2010, 04:01:00 PM
I use 160 grain field points on my woodies and shoot Abowyer Waptits.  They're the same 175 grain weight as the Brown Bears.  Wood is very accommodating to small and even not so small point weight changes.  15 grains one way or the other isn't noticeable.
Title: Re: matching field tip to broadhead w-wood
Post by: Fletcher on May 15, 2010, 08:09:00 PM
Ace Archery Tackle has 175 gr brass points.
Title: Re: matching field tip to broadhead w-wood
Post by: coaster500 on May 15, 2010, 09:11:00 PM
Thanks guys...

I'll try Ace Archery Tackle  :)
Title: Re: matching field tip to broadhead w-wood
Post by: ozy clint on May 16, 2010, 08:14:00 AM
melt some solder into the 160's before glueing on.
Title: Re: matching field tip to broadhead w-wood
Post by: Jim Wright on May 16, 2010, 08:45:00 AM
Get some lead wire, worm weights or heavy solder and with a 160 grain field pt. point down on a piece of wood, use a tapered punch or even a proper size small machine bolt and tap it firmly down into the forward cavity of the field pt. As you make the first one wiggle it loose between taps and the hole in the wood can be used on each pt. and the points will not get stuck. It's not a bad idea to first form the lead/solder with a pair of small pliers to roughly the shape of the cavity, you want it to slide all the way forward to begin with.