I am in the process of tuning some of my old arrows to fit a new bow. The old nocks were put on with Duco from about a year or two ago. I have to literally cut them off the woodies. Once that is done I clean up the taper and glued on new nocks. Two days later I can put pressure on the nock with my thumb and they pop right off.I ordered some of the Bear Paw nocks that Kustom King is now selling. I'm wondering if Duco has changed their formulation or if the Bear Paw nocks are made with some plastic that Duco doesn't work well on.It's been a pain in the a** so far. I had one nock break off on release and more or less dry fired the bow. Not good !
I cleaned off all the old glue with a tool I made from an old Whiffen taper tool. (cut it down until just the taper is left and you can use it with fletching in place).
I went ahead and put the nocks on with gorilla glue and they are holding just fine. But that's a pain. Just wondering what others are experiencing. The Bear Paw nocks do seem a bit undersize but can't say for sure .
Tim... no reason to believe that Duco has changed. There is a good chance however that the nocks have some kind of release agent in the taper from the molding process.
Try cleaning them out with alcohol or other mild solvent.
Bet that does the trick.... let us know.
:thumbsup:
I am using fletch-tite platinum and Bear Paw nocks ,not had any problem with bonding.
I haven't experienced this with all the arrows I have made in the past year up to today. Are you crown dipping your shafts? Once I didn't let the paint set up enough before installing nocks over the paint and a separation situation.
Duco seems the same to me. Personally I have never found it to be of particular value for anything 'cept the fletches. I use a CA gel for nocks.
I had the same thing happen about 2 months ago. A friend brought everything for me to make him some arrows. The nocks he used were bohnings but would not hold to the aluminum shaft. :banghead: It was what Mr Lamb stated ,cleaned them and no problems with Duco. I now clean all my nocks. Use a Q tip and alcohol. :archer:
no problems in the past, but will clean all nocks from here on, thanks
I only use Duco on wood arrows with a polyurethene finish on them,everything else I use Platinum fletch tite.I have use Bear Paw nocks without any problem.
Well,I tapered nocks on new cedar shafting, no paint, no varnish , no anything. I glued the Bear Paw nocks on one with Duco, one with Fletchtite, and cleaned the nocks with denatured alcohol. I also glued one of my older nocks(new not used) on a new cut shaft. After allowing drying time I tested them by grabbinbg with pliers and rocking them. The older nock with Duco literally had to tear from the wood with a lot of pressure. The Bear Paws all popped of with relative ease. It sure does not want me to buy these nocks again.
That's really interesting. I'd thought about trying those nocks but it wouldn't be worth it to stock and use an additional glue just for the nocks.
Guy
The ones I glued on with Gorilla glue seem to be fine, but that's a hassle and not very clean.I'd rather buy a different nock and be able to use Duco tht buy a highrer priced glue (if there is one). The cheaper price of the Bear Paws would be negated by higher priced glue. There's something going on with the plastic they used causing this I'm sure. If any of you has used Duco or Fletchtite I'd check them and give a good pry to see how they hold. I dry fired a new Bamboo Viper and that ain't good.
Thanks for bowin the whistle on this one. I've looked at the bearpaws. I have always used bohning though.
Bearpaw does state they use a special cold temp resistant and CHEMICAL RESISTANT plastic. That resistance may well keep the duco from breaking the molecular bonds of the plastic down so it can adhere to the wood well.
I wonder if the nocks' taper is off a little. I know that if I don't grind the shaft's nock taper right, then I get a void and the nock will pop off. If the nock is manufactured with an iffy taper, I would expect the same result.
I have never cleaned nocks before gluing them on. Points, yes. Not nocks.
Killdeer
Not to hijack the thread but it kind of sounds like the Bear Paw products may have some issues. The nocks don't appear to work with one of the most popular glues we use and I've heard of issues with the feather cutter not working very well. Are the fletching jigs working out for folks?
Guy
I have NO experience with the jigs. i have read they really work well in some other reviews.
Saunders NPV Adhesive!! Keeps the Feathers AND Nocks on!!
I also LOVE Saunders NPV.
I've been using it for everything for a long time now!
It even seems to work when using Krylon as the cap dip.
I've used Duco and it seems a little messy to me. I can't find it locally anymore, WalMart used to sell it.
I have to cut the nocks off to,but like snag mentioned my crown dipped arrows they will pop off very easy.Did you get some poly urethane on the nock taper?
Duco for fletching. Super glue for nocks. No Probs. here.
Its probably a well known thing to do but just in case... When I remove my nocks I heat em up a bit with a lighter or alcohol burner. I try to keep the flame off the shaft. Some sealer will burn like this, others don't. I keep the heat mostly on the part of the nock that is actually glued. The "fingers" of the nock might get burnt. Once it gets sorta soft, I just run my knife and cut a small slit from front to back with a few light passes. Then while still warm I pinch one side of the slit with pliers and just peel the nock right off.
Like I said, everyone probably does this..but just in case....I was happy when I figured it out lol
So you have used the Saunders glue on the Bear Paw nocks and it worked OK ?
I ran out of Duco and while waiting for some to get here tried 5 min epoxy with classic nocks on wood shafts with poly, next day they all popped of with slight pressure applied duco yesterday and am hoping that it will stick to the epoxy...PR
My experience with Duco is that it "fuses " to the plastic nock. Look close and you will see where the Duco actually melted the plastic around the thin edge. With these nocks the plastic looks as slick and untouched as when before you glued it. If they are "chemical resistant" as advertised.... well... ? And when did a nock being chemical resistant mean anything ? Am I shooting thru a haz mat site ?
Why don't you just glue on a different brand of nock and see if you have the same problem? That should tell you something about what is or is not going on.
Already did. No problem.
There you go, it's the nocks not the Duco. You say the nocks are "chemical resistant" then the Duco isn't fusing or melting the nock to the shaft.
"My experience with Duco is that it "fuses " to the plastic nock. Look close and you will see where the Duco actually melted the plastic around the thin edge. With these nocks the plastic looks as slick and untouched as when before you glued it."
That's what I was going to tell ya to check. Duco works by actually melting plastic then letting it harden again as the chemicals evaporate out of it. When I glue on say a green nock and the little ring of glue is forced out of the nock, if I wipe it off with a finger I get green color because some of the green plastic melted out with the glue. If a nock is impervious to Duco, it may still be a great nock, you just might have to use another glue. Probably super glue would work well but most likely not over bare wood. Super glue would work better on a painted or clear coated surface. I wouldn't knock the nock just because it don't work with duco. It may be a really tough nock.