g'day all
i am having trouble sorting out what spine wood arrows i need for my bow.the bow is a samick phantom recurve 55#@28.its 50#@ my draw length of 26"i would like to use 125gr and/or 145gr broadheads for pigs and goats.im thinking 60/65 woods if anyone has any suggestions or use the same sort of set up i would greatly appreciate some opinions
cheers mick
Go to this link and download the spine calculator. http://heilakka.com/stumiller/
You'll need to input your specs and it will give you a pretty close starting point. The one area to not overlook is the amount of cut your arrow rest has. You'll also need to know what type of string you're using.
I would say that 55/60 @ 28+" with 125 0r 145 up front would be pretty close. You have to mess with the final length.
thanks looper i already have it mate
in the box under amo static spine
it says shaft grains per inch (gpi)what do i put in there i have been putting in 10gpi not sure if that is correct thanks for the feed back looper
cheers mick
thanks for the reply ron will have a go at that
Hello Mick,
For the GPI, in that spine range I would go with 12 for Sitka Spruce, 13 for Cedar, and 14 for Fir. That should get you close for a finished shaft GPI. I hope it helps you out!
-Stu
Mick, 13 or 14 gpi be close enuf. Wood shaft weight varies a lot between types and even within a species.
How deep the shelf is cut will make a difference with your spine needs. 60-65's cut to 28" BOP should work if the bow is cut to center. You will probably need to go up a bit if cut deeper.
thanks guys this is valuable info does anyone bare shaft their woods
cheers mick
Hello Mick,
Personally, I do not bare shaft woodies. I will sometimes paper tune at varied distances but usually trust the eye and point of impact at long distances.
-Stu
thanks stu i have tried bare shafting but it seems most dangerous thing to do at times
fletcher the bow is cut past centre i shoot off the shelf with a fur rest
You may need to go a little stiffer or shorter then, Mick. When we start adding up a few variable factors like arrow length and depth of cut, the formulas become less precise. If possible, find or buy a few arrows in progressive spines and paper tune them with the point weight you want to shoot. You will soon know exactly what spine range you need. Such a set of test arrows is very valuable to someone who shoots different bows. I have a bunch of test arrows that I loan out, but the shipping to and from would kill you.
fletcher i have some test arrows but unfortunately they on go up to 50/55
but working on the formula of
50#plus 5#=55
centre cut shelf add 5#=60
fastflyte string add 5#=65
takeaway 10# cause im 2"shorter than 28"
comes back to 60
im taking that on a 125gr b/h if i was using 145gr and up i would add on another 5#
but in saying do i go for the 55/60 or 60/65 woods
cheers mick
Making good woodies takes time and effort why would you not take a moment to bareshaft and make sure the flight of the finished arrow will be as good as it gets.
Bjorn,
When I first started with woodies I bare shaft tuned but became wary and disgusted because I was breaking them at a record pace.
My inexperience was costing me $'s.
Stubborn fool that at times I have a tendency to be, I refused to seek wisdom. Kinda like a guy asking for directions when he's lost. :help:
Since then I've found guidance.
Thanks especially to you and others like Don Stokes, I now use a softer target for bareshafting woodies.
There was absolutely no way to afford bareshafting wood before.
:notworthy:
bjorn i probably will bare shaft i know nothing about bare shafting i have heard some people do it some dont bother some have had a shaft that wont shoot bare but put feathers and a point on and it flies perfect but in saying that bjorn i am after the perfect arrow b/h combination for this bow i was the same when i was rifle shooting if i couldnt get 5 shots in the size of a thumb nail at 100yards it wasnt good enough
cheers mick