Hey guys,
I did a Paper Tuning Test on Martin Jaguar Takedown Recurve. Here is what I know so far:
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Starting Bow Dynamic Spine 58.0, 51# @ 27"draw, with B50 string. NAP flipper rest is centered.
Started with my nock height. Ended up at 5/8". So far so good.
Then tried my 28" 2018's. Moving the NAP flipper rest position to -1/16" bulleted 2018's for 200-250 grain points only. Less weight on point did not bullet at any rest position. Bow Dynamic Spine is now 63.0 according to Stu's spreadsheet. Arrow's dynamic spine is less but they bullet. Don't know if that means anything. I also don't know if the rest position on a recurve being negative is a bad thing. Maybe it means I should get lighter spined arrows so it moves back to the left?
200 grain on 2018's, Dynamic Spine 58.2
250 grain on 2018's, Dynamic Spine 48.6
Then moved onto my 28" 5575's. Always pulls nock to the right no matter if rest is all the way to the left or right or anywhere in-between. Any field point from 125 gr. to 250 gr. did not help. The heavier grain field points did seem to bring in the nock close to center, but not enough before I ran out of rest adjustment. Wondering if I should just chuck these arrows or get really heavy points?
200 grain on 5575's, Dynamic Spine 68.5
250 grain on 5575's, Dynamic Spine 58.4
Any comments?
I don't bother with Papper tuneing trad gear,,, Bare shaft tuneing is way better to me anyway ,, look on the A&H archery site or OLS for bare shaft tuneing ,, Good Luck!
I've found that once I've bare shaft tuned and have my broadheads hitting the same as my field points, I get a bullet hole trhu paper at 6-10 feet. I'd screw some broadheads on those first ones and go hunting...
Question though: Does my test tell me something about the 5575's, like maybe they're too stiff to compensate for with point weight? Or will bareshaft tuning be a better judge of that?
Also: isn't broadhead tuning doing the same thing as bareshaft tuning?
Sounds like you need more point weight on the 5575's.I would try 300 grs. for starters.You may need more.I can't remember if you are using aluminum inserts.You could use 100 gr brass inserts and you can build heavier points by using different weight glue on field points and steel adaptors.The 5575's are stiffer than the 2018's.I would think you would need at least 25-40 grs more ponit weight than you do with the 2018's.
Thanks. On the 5575's I have about a 15 grain insert with a 20 grain weight behind it. That was originally to get the arrows to the minimum 8gpp for this bow.
I'm beginning to believe that paper bare shaft tuning (at 16ish feet after arrow is out of paradox) is better than bare shaft planning. The simple fact is you have an idea of whats wrong with one shot - verify with another one or two and you can make a change. Total two or three shots. With bare shaft planning you need to compare shots, so you need 2, 4, 6, shots before making a change.
That is especially helpful for newbys that may have form issues.
Bowmania
QuoteOriginally posted by JimB:
Sounds like you need more point weight on the 5575's.I would try 300 grs. for starters.You may need more.I can't remember if you are using aluminum inserts.You could use 100 gr brass inserts and you can build heavier points by using different weight glue on field points and steel adaptors.The 5575's are stiffer than the 2018's.I would think you would need at least 25-40 grs more ponit weight than you do with the 2018's.
yep, try adding a 100grn brass insert and they should fly good. :thumbsup:
Putting a 300 grain point instead of the 250 on the 55-75 should match it in dynamic spine to the 2018. It'll give you a nice heavy arrow that's well into the efoc range. The 2018's you have right now will be awesome but you don't want the other shafts to go to waste. It looks like the 55-75 with a 300grain point would end about 30grains or so lighter than the 2018 with about 8% more foc. For the rest, try setting it so that the middle of the arrow is in the middle of the bow. This is the rest position that's most forgiving to a stiff arrow. Another thing you might want to try is a 35-55 with a 200-210grain point(still using 20grain weight behind insert) or about a 225grain point with a regular insert. It'd weigh about 500 grains and have 22-23% foc. All 3 of these choices would be deadly. I'd definitely sped a couple bucks on some 300 grain points or heavier inserts for the 55-75's if I were you. 8% foc is a big difference. The arrows would be really similar in weight the 55-75 being about 30grains lighter. A 100 grain insert might be good because it'd allow you to use the point's your using now. If they still don't tune at 200 with the 100 grain insert (265 with 35grain insert) you can go to 250. If the 250 grain points are a bit heavy you can file a few grains off.
Excellent advice guys! Say, Max TPI for my bow is achieved with 680-800 grain arrows according to calcs I did with Ashby's info. Is this something to strive for?