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Main Boards => PowWow => Topic started by: Mike/MO on January 07, 2007, 09:30:00 PM
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I bought some snake skins from 3Rivers. On there website they suggested using Barge cement on dry skins to make the bond, but nothing about sealing them after. I also have info about using wet skins with carpenters glue then spraying with varathane to seal.I know it has been discussed here but I was wondering what the thoughts are on the best way to do the skins on a fiberglass bow. Thanks
Mike
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3m spray adhesive, leave the skins dry. Tape off
everything you don't want over spray on and start
at the top, move down in 1/2 inch increments. After
your done use a new razor to trim off the edges.
I use duck tape to remove all the scales and
a brush, always pull in the direction with the
scales. I use water based spray poly in the blue
can to seal. Good luck!
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I've always used tite-bond 11 and sealed with either true-oil, or fuller-plast. But I like 4fletch's idea. It sounds alot simpler.
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Thanks for the reply.
OK, now I have another option. I guess there's more than one way to skin a "snake"
I should have added the skins are frozen. I could dry them out but I don't know how long it would take outside this winter. I'm sure my wife would nix the idea of drying them in the house!
Mike
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I used Titebond (same as Wood Glue I guess) on dried skins that were resoaked. Then wrapped the limbs in Ace Bandage til dry, trim skins and 2-Ton Epoxy & MEK sprayed on to seal/finish.
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I personally would not use barge cement. If you don't get it just right, TOO BAD! It's stuck. TiteBond is a better choice. You have plenty of time to get it where you want it. Once it's dry use whatever finish you would usually use. I like Tru-Oil and/or satin poly spray. Pat
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Titebond 2 Then seal it with a finish. I used a polyurathane if I remember right.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v357/JasonLester/Proline%20bow/s100_1357-1.jpg)
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Thanks for all the suggestions. I think I'll go with the Titebond then spray with poly after drying.
Juneaulongbow--I hope you're not using one on those longbows made by Steve H. :)
Mike
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TiteBond III works very nice. Gives you plenty of time to work and adheres and remains flexible very well...Spar Urethane for the finish.... has worked for me on a bunch of em....
(http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a365/yleecoyote23/WesWallaceMentor002.jpg)