Gents,
So my wife won a free season pass to a renaissance fair in CT, and she wants me to try and win the archery contest they have there... no wait, it gets better... The rules require on longbows or recurves, shot instinctively with fingers, AND WOOD ARROWS! No wait it gets EVEN BETTER! So I tell her, I don't have wood arrows, I only have a few carbons left. So she tells me to go buy some woodies!! This is the same wife that gets annoyed when I buy 3 broadheads or beaver balls!! Now, here's where it gets good... she says, "And you'll have to practice with them more too"... wow! So, not only do I get to FINALLY get wood, but I get to PRACTICE WITHOUT BEING HASSELED!! Talk about being in God's favor!!
So, I need some help getting the woodies because this is new territory for me. I read, briefly, the chapter in Conrads' "Traditional Bowhunter's Handbook" on woodies and THINK that I will need a 65-70# spined arrow. Here's my set up. I shoot a Damon Howatt Hunter, 62" 50+@28" which I draw to 28". The arrows will be cut 29" with 200 up front for EFOC stability.
Also I'd like to know where the best place to get some woodies would be and how to care for them (storage, straightening, etc...)
Any help would be appreciated guys!
Did you put your stats into Stu millers spine calculator? and check with fletcher at the feathered shaft,He can help you.He can help you get wood
Given that a Howatt is cut to center and you're putting a lot of weight up front, 65-70# will probably work well. Tough to find glue on points in the 200 grain range. Are you planning to use woody weights? I'd recommend a 160-grain glue on point. If you do that, could probably drop to 60-65# spine.
Hard to find good, straight grained cedar anymore. Surewood Shafts Doug Fir is an excellent wood shaft. Also heard good things about Hellenbrands Sitka spruce shafts, though I haven't used those. On average, the Doug firs will run about 20 percent heavier than the spruce. Spruce is just a tad, 5% or so, less physical weight than cedar.
i think the suppliers on here can help with the points. I recently bought some 190's.
Good luck!
There are a few options for a 190 gr head.I shoot woods 11/32@31" with 160gr heads.
Call Rick at the Feathered Shaft (Trad Gang Sponsor) tell him what your shooting and what weight up front and arrow length you want to shoot and ask him to send you a test bundle.
He sent me several arrows of different spine with the 190's up front in my length and I got my bow tuned spot on in no time and ordered a dozen from him.
You won't regret it I promise.
I also ordered a 1/2 dozen sealed shafts from the nocking point (also a sponsor here) and was amazed at how straight they were when I got them. All I did was fletch, cut to length and taper and I've been shooting them everyday with awsome flight and still have not had to straighten them.
Good luck, Kris
Pm sent
190's will work fine from this set up. I shoot 27.5" arrows from my 48-49# recurve with 190's then shoot 125 WW heads with a 75gr, woodie weight. they fly like darts.
imo, all this spine stuff is at least somewhat subjective for what'll work for a particular bow and a particular archer's shooting style.
right now i use 55-60# spined 380gr raw surewoods out of 50-55# mild r/d near centershot longbows. 190gr field points, 4.5" 4-fletch, arrows weigh in the 600 grain range. it would really be best if you built yer own arrows - if not, there are more than a few trad gang fletcher sponsors offering good advice and superb arrows.
Can you use that bow in a ren-fair contest? You may need to buy a new bow... :bigsmyl:
Killdeer :wavey:
Methinks the fair maiden Killdeer might have a point, you might be able to work this into a new longbow as well. :bigsmyl:
if the arrow is made correctly, you wont have to mess with all that 200gr up front stuff....
Nice! Good luck Mr. P!!
I shoot wooden arrows also. Hell, I even started my carriere with POC's. Now I use carbon and wood. Sometimes I have to shoot wood, because, like in your case, on a traditional tournament it is wooden arrows ONLY.
First of all, if you don't have a clue, use Stu Millers Dynamic spine calculator. It is easy to download and works great: http://heilakka.com/stumiller/ It will give you a very good starting point. Remember: it is a starting point only! Then order the proper spine shafts.
At 3D games it is common to use a 125 grains (screw-on)fieldtip on a 11/32 shaft (were you will end up at your draw-weight) It will give you a FOC of apr. 10% and that is what you want for 3D! It gives you a nice flat trajectory.
Don't let your arrows cut to lenght, order them on full length (= 32 inch)!
Put the point on and go out bareshafting at full lenght! Start at 15 yards and work your way up to 30 yards. If your arrow hits the target on the left side, the spine is to stiff. But probably the will hit at the right side, indicating that the spine is to weak. Cut of some lenghts in steps of 0.5" till you found the right length (or spine). Keep in mind that one inch equals apr. 5 lbs in spine value! Repeat this with several arrows untill you found the proper length/spinevalue. Then cut them all to that lenght and fletch them.If you are very serious about this, you can bareshaft all your shafts.
Most important about wood is, that it is consistant and straight. I hear some very good stories about Sitka Spruce here. This is what I will use when I am out of POC stock... (still have 24 shafts left)
Go practice.
Then go to the darned tournament and smoke them all! :p
Thanks to all!! I have a few arrows on the way and will let you know how it goes!
Give it a go and let us hear it Erik!
If you shooting in a Ren-Fair You should practice shooting in a pair of green tights... :biglaugh:
Ipcjon2... only if they're camo!!
Dude, would you consider meeting up at the shoot on stilts, with an old, brown priests robe, a big hat and a long storks beak? Enter as "The Mystery Archer"
If you are buying good quality tapers Kustom King makes some of the best out there.