I thought I had arrows that match my bow. (45# Grizzly and 3555 GT arrows) After learning more my arrows are over spined. Should I add more weight to them, sell them (6 of them) and start over, or get new arrows and keep these for flu flu arrows, try them out of my 50# Montana? I am kind of frusturated right now, I thought things were going well then I shot at a longer distance with a bare shaft and it is very easy to see they are not flying straight. What would you do?
I would think they should work.If you are positive they are too stiff.Try heavier points.Start with 25 grs heavier than you have now and increase point weight till they fly well.
If you haven't already,read the tuning information on bowmaker.net
I wouldn't give up on those arrows yet.Good luck.
When bare shafting, you want the bow straight up and down not canted correct?
Try them out of the Montana first of course.
Yes.Straight up and down.
I shoot 35/55s out of a 45# Grizzly. They are kinda long, for me, at 30" bop, but fly very well.
what is your draw length and poundage? 3555s work great out of my 50# bear montana longbow cut at 29.75 inches and 250 grain points
Well I just did a quick shoot at 15 yards with a 100 brass insert and a 250 grain tip and I was still getting nock pointing right from where the arrow went into the target.
i am shooting 3555 of of my 46# bear alaskan 28" draw 30.5" arrow (full length) with 175gr up front. they fly great. i dont bare shaft, i dont paper test ,i dont walk back tune. i fletch em and shoot em. if they fly straight and hit the mark thats all i care about. i think people get to wrapped up in the technical side of archery and loose sight of the simplicity of archery. rememeber when everyone shot a woodie with 125 up front and that was that..
Are your arrows actually flying nock right or are they nock right after impact? What kind of target are you shooting into?
Nock right after impact and I am shooting into a bag target.
I often see arrows jump left or right at impact, when shooting into my bag target. IMO, where are your arrows impacting a bag target is more important than nock left or right. I do not use a bag target when bare shafting, because they do not always give me a true indication of arrow flight.
What kind of target should I use. I have a BH target.
Try the broadhead target and see what happens. And, I agree when the weather permits, you should shoot further than six yards. I'm not sure your arrows would even be out of paradox at that distance.
I shot at 15-20 yards tonight. I will try the BH target tomorrow.
When bareshafting Try to watch the arrow flight right before it hits the target, also shoot a fletched arrow. If tuned properly your bare shaft should hit the same as the fletched one. Let us know how your doing. Your form is crucial also when bareshafting. JM2C
I've never bare shafted in my long life of arrow shooting and have never had a problem with arrow flight. I do know that 3555 GT's work great for me out of my bows that are in the 45-50# range at 29 1/2" arrow length and a 29" draw. My heads weigh usually 175 grains.
try shooting them through paper. the hole in the paper will tell you what you really have. you can not go by which way the are in a bag target. i shoot alot into a bag target and they (lean) as i call it left, right and up and down. paper tune is the way to go.
QuoteOriginally posted by kevsuperg:
i am shooting 3555 of of my 46# bear alaskan 28" draw 30.5" arrow (full length) with 175gr up front. they fly great. i dont bare shaft, i dont paper test ,i dont walk back tune. i fletch em and shoot em. if they fly straight and hit the mark thats all i care about. i think people get to wrapped up in the technical side of archery and loose sight of the simplicity of archery. rememeber when everyone shot a woodie with 125 up front and that was that..
Nothing wrong with striving to obtain optimum arrow flight to increase the likelihood of better penetration on game and, ultimately, a short blood trail and quick recovery. :)
"Nothing wrong with striving to obtain optimum arrow flight to increase the likelihood of better penetration on game and, ultimately, a short blood trail and quick recovery."
No, but there is nothing wrong with not bareshaft testing arrows. I have never done it and can acquire perfect arrow flight. There is nothing I hunt or shoot at without feathers, so I fletch my arrows, then I tune them. It works very well and will accomplish anything bareshafting will.
There is always more than one way to accomplish a task. Frankly, I think we are creating more jobs for therapists then we are creating good archers.
You do not need to bareshaft your arrows/shafts to get great tuning and perfect arrow flight.
Anyone who wishes to see how us old pharts have managed over the decades, please contact me and we can get together on how it's done....simply, effectively.
George....one old phart to another :clapper:
True, George, but it takes some experience to get where you are. After many years of archery, bare shafting taught me something valuable, and it has been good for me. It shortens the tuning process and eliminates a lot of trial-and-error for the less experienced. My trial-and-error was mostly error. :)
wisconsinteacher, interested in how your making out with all the suggestions. Were they of any help with your tuning?
Tuning could be better. I feel like I am spinning in circles. It is hard for a rookie to get them to fly good with feathers on and even harder to get groups from the beginning of this adventure. I hope that with time, I will get somethings figured out.
Wisconsinteacher, As new as you are to the sport I wouldn't stress so much over tuning. Get some 40/45# woodies and just practice shooting to improve your form and accuracy. The only tuning I would do now if I were you is just to get my nock point set. Once you've developed consistent form and accuracy then you can worry about getting fine tuned.
What Kenneth said. Keep at it bud it will get better.
Wisconsin...don't give up! What is your draw length and what length are your arrows? I was just down in the basement shooting my 46# @ 27" Black Widow recurve. I was using GT 35-55 arrows cut to 29" with 50 grain inserts and 260 grain points. So, getting them to tune properly meant putting 310 grains up front!
Conversely, when I shoot Vapor 2000 arrows, I shoot a 29" arrow with 225 grains up front. The Vapor 2000 is a slightly weaker shaft than the GT 35-55.
Let me know what you are shooting now relative to length vs. your draw length and I'll see if I can help you.
Claudia