I have GT 3555 at 30.5" from the valley of the nock to the end of the shaft with a factory insert and 125 grain tips on the end. They fly very well out of the bow but I would like to know what wood arrow would match this arrow? I would like to try wood arrows out of my bow to make it more "traditional". The finished arrow needs to be at least 27.75" long.
What weight bow and your draw length?
My bow is marked 45# at 28". When I draw back the bow and have someone mark the arrow where it is even with the back of the bow. (side away from me) the arrow measures 26.75" from the valley of the nock. From what I read, I want a finished arrow at least 1" longer than what I measured.
shoot a woodie that is 45/50 if your bow is cut to center or past....shoot a 40/45 if not cut to center.....
In my opinion the 35/55s are too stiff for your set up ..especially with only 125 grains up front.....you need a .600 spine carbon arrow.
My 3555s seam be tuned well. They stick straight out of the bag target out to 20 yards.
matthew...are they bareshafted or fletched arrows. ?
I would thing the 3555's would be way overspined for your set-up but everyones release and shooting style is different. I'm shooting a 45#@28" Whisperstik Voodoo longbow drawn to 29" with GT Entrada 600's full length with 100gr. inserts and 175gr. points and they bareshaft and papertune perfect for me. I have a 50#@28 Big Jim Buffalo bow and Whisperstik Voodoo and drawn to 29" shooting GT Trad 3555's cut to 30" with 100gr. inserts and 175gr. points they are shooting really well for me. The way I normally shoot my arrows are usually a tad underspined for someone with similar specs but what you're getting seems an awful lot.
I bare shafted them out to 12-15 yards and they flew well for me. Maybe they are over spined and I don't know what the heck I am doing. I guess I will forget about wood for now and work on my 3555s. Maybe this weekend, I can strip an arrow and rebare shaft tune my bow.
47@27 R/D LB, GT 35/55 & 11/32 45-50 POC, both 28", 125 gr front, 3x4" fletch
(http://i45.tinypic.com/2usbnuu.jpg)
It works for me! Though I know Stu's Calc says GTs are way overspined!
SveinD...shoot those bare shaft and see what you get..... feathers can cover lots of spine issues...
Why does everyone think bare shaft tuning is the be all end all of getting an arrow to fly?
I am sure the method has merit and will help you get where you want to get. But I dont think it is the only answer. I went to shooting traditional bows to make things less complicated. Seems to me a little trial and error will produce a combination that works well for ME. If an arrow flys true to my eye, and hits where I want (within my shooting abilities) I am happy.
Dont know about the rest of you, but I personally hunt with arrows that got feathers on them.
Like with everything else though, your mileage may vary.
BP
typically when you get a bareshaft to fly good that means your broadheads will typically fly well also with fletched shafts.... your feathers will cover up a lot of spine issues when shooting field points....a field point isnt hard to control.... but a broadhead can do some crazy things if your spine isnt close even with fletched shafts...another short cut is to shoot a large 2 blade broadhead with fletched shafts and tune from there......
Brian,
Its like shooting hoops with a basketball. You can shoot and have it bounce off the backboard and rim and go in or you can shoot and have it "swish, nothing but net".
You seem to be happy with the bouncing it off the backboard and rim to go in. The guys that bareshaft are looking for that "swish, nothing but net" shot.
Yeah, they both get points on the board, one ways just more efficient.
Proper arrow flight will improve penetration.
Okay so I went out and bare shaft shot. My arrows are over spined. Can I put brass inserts in to try to fix the problem?
Yes. More weight up front equals a weaker spine. Brass inserts, heavier points or both. Or longer shafts.