Trad Gang

I have read and reread the DIY tutorial on nocking points . They start out good but after 50-100 shots the knot gets mashed and the nocking point is off a little, then they get to where they slip up and down the string after a while. What am I doing wrong? Can this thing be made to where it is durable and you do not have to worry about it, I want my nocking point exactly where it is supposed to be when I wear out the string????

Jack

Hi Jack,
I use dental floss. I start with a clove hitch, wrap to the size I want, a couple half hitches and finish up with a square knot. I them put a little bit of fletch tite on the whole nock.
I don't have any idea how many shots I have on them but every once in a while one will start to fray a little and I just put a drop of glue on it and it will last until I need to replace the string.
Hope this helped.

Brad

I use TS1 and then soak it with thin super glue.  They turn hard as a rock and never move.

You can use what material you want, just soak it in thin super glue.  I use TS1 because I use ot to make the strings. Dental floss soaked in super glue works fine.

I use 25# test braided nylon fishing line or Diamondback .026" braided center serving.

The key is to get the length of the nock point just right.  Too short and it will slip, too long and it's tough to twist up/down.  I find about 3/8" to be about perfect.

I burn the knot but don't put super glue on as I like the option of twisting them up or down...

Jack, I use BCY nock tying thread. I tie with 7 half hitches, the last one finished off as a square knot. Tied this way, you can twist the whole thing up/down to adjust. When I have it tuned perfectly, I just add some superglue to the outside edge.

I shoot a LOT and never have a problem with this set-up.


Hey Michaelschwister, I live just on the other side of the mountain from you. We should meet up and shoot sometime.


Allen

also, use a quality super glue as found in model hobby shops - you want the standard, water thin variety of cya (CYAnoacrylate, such as the hot stuff brand name).

all bets are off if you use that cheap krazy glue krap or any super glue that's viscous and not water thin.

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v82/rfdee/archery/np13.jpg)

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v82/rfdee/archery/tie-on-nock-point.jpg)

Dental floss, and Duco.
Just keep tying overhand knots, after each layer, add in some Duco, keep tying till you have the size you want, then Duco over the whole thing when you are done.
Your string will wear out before the nock point comes off.
Jim

Allen nailed it, only I use B-50 and tie ten half hitches. The key is to wax the strand before and snug the strand as tight as possible, tie the half hitches on opposite sides of the serving to make it even. Finish with a square knot, and a heated knife blade tip to smooth the knot. I DO NOT use any glue, and have not had one to move in 30 years. They are extremely durable, as the string usually wears out first.

Michael

Allen

Saw your threads last fall, we should definately get together to shoot/make bows etc.  I have 49 acres for stumping and a 3 target 3d range, you are welcome anythime. Spot and stalk groundhogs all summer in my foodplots, I hate the things, they eat more soybeans than the deer......

Mike

Another vote for dental floss and super glue. Good luck.

Why not use a metal nock?  Is there an advantage to the floss/b50 thing?

Thanks

Tenbrook

QuoteOriginally posted by tenbrook:
Why not use a metal nock?  Is there an advantage to the floss/b50 thing?

Thanks

Tenbrook

The metal nocks are bulky and if pinched will affect your arrow more than some floss or string'n'glue will. The have a greater chance of coming loose and slipping down/up. Also if you shoot with gloves, they wear out the gloves faster and can also damage the string if pinched to tight..
But if you like metal nocks, use them.
They still get the job done, if properly sized and fastened!

Thanks guys for all your responses, I will give it another round with better glue.

Allen at ATAR how about a tutorial   :thumbsup:  

I been using brass nock sets for years but they cut into the serving sometimes and I don't like it one bit  

Thanks
Jack

I used unwaxed dental floss to begin...and wrap a base layer. Add a small dab of clear nail polish here, and then wrap another layer...add polish, etc until you get the size and profle you want. Tie any knot and snug it tight, then dab with polish. When it dries, use a razor blade to trim the tag end...and add a final coat of polish. My nock points always outlast the bowstring.

Unwaxed Dental floss, tight and smooth. Finish with a nail knot. If you have wrapped guides on a rod, you have used a nail knot. It can be done by using a loop in a string, or a small 1-2" spray tube from a can of WD40. Run 6-8 rounds over the tube then feed the end of the Dental Floss thru, pull out the tube and tighten. Then use head cement for tying flys.

Rob, that second noc is the best looking I've seen could you describe in more detail how you tie it? A tutorial would be great also.

I was shown a different way to tie on a nock. It is much the same as tying on your serving. I was using diamond back .030, but recently tried B-50 and it is also working well with a little less bulk. Start with about a 12" strand of well waxed serving and put a bight in it. Lay the strand on your well waxed string with the loop centered on the string (it can point up or down). Take one tag end and start to wind around your string  from the base of the loop towards the top. Make the wraps tight and even. The First wrap locates the nock on the string so set it as best you can. I keep wrapping till I get about 5/16" or so total wrap. Put that tag end through the loop and hang on to it. Pull the other tag end to pull the loop and the first tag end into the wrap. I pull hard on each end to keep things tight and pull the loop to the center of the wrap. Pull the tag ends taught and snip off with a razor. Carefully and quickly burn in the ends with a match. I never tried glue and that could be a good idea but I've never had a nock fail or slip on me. Hope this makes sense. Much harder to explain than to do. Once you get into tie on nocks, you'll never go back to brass.
Dave

I love the durability of the brass nocks but like the concept of the tie on nock set. If I can tie it where it is more durable I will be a happy camper. I like for everything I hunt with to be tough.

Thanks
Jack

I never have liked the brass ones and have just started shooting three under...then I read a post that Ken Beck told somebody to try two nocks - for three under.

Maybe we could get some video links to these ideas....great to see how it's done actually.

You can do it......please

jer

The brass nock sets seem to cut my finger tab so I usually tie the nocking point.  I use extra of whatever I served the string with. I never use glue.  I start with a square knot and tie a series of overhand knots then I go back down over the top the same way with a second layer for added thickness.  I finish with a square knot on both sides of the string.  In place of glue, I  burn the tag ends and quickly wipe the melted ends onto the bundle to seal the knot.  The whole deal is roughly the same size of a brass nock set.  It never slips--in fact the only problem is that it is tied so tightly that I can't adjust it up or down very easily if at all.

Here's a link to a build along in the How To resource forum:  http://tradgang.com/noncgi/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=2;t=000078
Hope this helps a little, Rick

Jack, we'll set up shop at ATAR and have at it!

Hope to see you there!!

Good thread, I also do the same as Allen.  No problems.  Next time I'll try waxing it ahead of time and see how it works.  But Robs nock sure is Purdy!

Yeah Rob, How did ya get that So Purty?? Mine dont Look ANYTHING Like That.  :thumbsup:   They end up Looking like a Ball of String,  :banghead:   which....I guess thats what they are.   :goldtooth:

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v82/rfdee/archery/tie-on-nock-point.jpg)

this is a whipped nock point (not a knot) using large diameter .025" bcy #62 braid black/white serving.  the actual center serving is .019" bcy halo.  

use unwaxed thread (center serving type) and never any waxed thread (bowstring fiber or dental floss) as the wax inhibits the capillary flow of the binding agent (quality model shop thin cya such as 'hot stuff').

serve the nocking point with just a few turns, whipping the tag end back under the nock serving. pull the tag end *tight* and leave it hanging.  liberally saturate with water thin cya.  when the cya has cured, use a razor blade/knife to trim off the hardened tag end.  give the entire nock point one more light coat of cya.  

the result is a hard and ultra light nock point that will last the life of the string and not harm your leather glove or tab.

note: this type of nock point can't be moved, it's permanent.  it can be removed by cutting off with a razor blade/knife.  use knots instead of serving if you need to move the nock point.

fyi -

when making a movable knotted nock pointm make sure to *liberally" wax (rub it in good) the center serving in the area of the nock point - this will help keep the cya from bonding the nock point to the serving,

B-50 stretchs. What's your take on tied string nocks on B-50 strings?

Lately I have started using braided fly line backing material. It is florescent yellow. I whip tie it much like Rob described, melt the tag ends, add the CA glue, and don't have to do it again until I put on a new string.

I have also gone to using two nock points even shooting split. I think I get more consistent arrow flight because the nock can't slip even a little bit.

QuoteOriginally posted by straitera:
B-50 stretchs. What's your take on tied string nocks on B-50 strings?

i use waxed dacron for knotted nock points, liberally doused with thin cya.  go back a page and see the image.

I've used dental floss for years; its stays in place, and is as durable as anything you will ever use.  A simple whip finish makes it tight and secure.

I have used B50,D97 and No 4 nylon serving for tie on nocks,they all work fine for me.

I've always used the metal nocks but don't really like them for reasons mentioned above.  as of late I've been using thin strips of duct tape and a dap of glue.  It has worked well so far but I don't know how well it will hold up over time.

I've used both, depending on my mood and how much time I have.

I've never experienced the problems mentioned with brass nocksets.  My guess is because I use quality nocksets (from Saunders), I use nocksets that fit the string properly, and I use a set of quality nocking pliers that don't just pinch, but round off the nockset.  Works just fine with a glove or tab.

Chad

Guys thanks for all the response , after returning form FL I will give it another try. I don't want to try something on a hunt.


Jack

I use BCY #3D and start with a clove hitch and wrap twice then a clove hitch on the other side and then two more wraps and end it with a clove hitch.And wax it in and slight heat on the wax(blow dryer)and wax again.I never have one slip,A clove hitch is a self tightening knot.   :thumbsup:

been using dental floss and fingernail polish for for about 35 years. when it starts getting frayed, just add another coat of polish. Never had a problem.

Amazing! Three pages on tied on nock locators! I have been using tied on nock points for years and never even was aware that there was/could be a problem since they work so perfectly for me.  I just use B50, tie it in simple over-hand knots back and forth on opposite sides, finish with a square knot, and touch a drop of glue (super, fletch tite, or whatever I have around) and never have had one move. Simplest thing there is in archery to me. Sometimes I use the whipped method but don't really like it any better than my usuaul method.

This has worked great for me:
http://tradgang.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=2;t=000014

I use bowstring in a different color than my serving and main bowstring.

This thread is just what I've been needing because I've been toying with the idea of tying on my nocks instead of using brass ones.

Thanks Fellas!

i find the metal nock points easiest/fastest to change location.  but when the right nock location is determined, i replace the metal with serving or string fiber.

Jack,

Here's a link to a tutorial from TBM's Tip of the Week. It shows a good way to finish the wrap...similar to finishing a string serving.

http://www.aweber.com/b/1Krw5

QuoteOriginally posted by SveinD:
 

QuoteOriginally posted by tenbrook:
Why not use a metal nock?  Is there an advantage to the floss/b50 thing?

Thanks

Tenbrook

The metal nocks are bulky and if pinched will affect your arrow more than some floss or string'n'glue will. The have a greater chance of coming loose and slipping down/up. Also if you shoot with gloves, they wear out the gloves faster and can also damage the string if pinched to tight..
But if you like metal nocks, use them.
They still get the job done, if properly sized and fastened! [/b]

I've never, ever had a brass nock move once it's crimped in place.

I've never seen a string damaged from a brass nock (I've seen kevlar strings break at the nock point, but that's a kevlar problem, not a brass nock problem.)

If you prefer tying on a nock, cool.  Let's not create a problem to justify a personal choice.