OK, I have been wanting to pheasant hunt with my longbow for quite some time and now it looks like it is going to happen. I have a quiver full of arrows that I am going to fletch up with FluFlus but don't have a clue what to use on the business end. I cannot use broadheads because they don't want the dogs getting hold of one of those so...... what is the best thing to use?
I have Judos, and VPA small game thumper points. I could get a few snare points if those really work. Give me some help / advice.
Bisch
I've always used broadheads. Check the laws in the state you intend to hunt in -- I think South Dakota requires them at least they used to.
Again, depending on how and where you hunt and contrary to popular belief you don't REALLY need a dog to hunt pheasants. I grew up in SD and never had a dog and got my fair share of birds.
never hunted pheasants myself, so I cant say much, but can say that I definatly dont think I would use the snaros on them! I think the biggest thing I would use them on is a grouse, and it would have to be very close! I think your best bet is either a bh or a judo? From what I have read they have thin skins!
Ya! Thin skins but thick feathers. They're tough birds! A load for 6 or 4 shot on the wing will do them in but try that if they're on the ground and unless you hit them in the head it's like they're wearing armour. A judo may do it but I'd still recomend a BH.
I've tried everything. I've had Judos and Hex Blunts bounce off birds. What I've found best is a field point with a Zwickey Scorpio behind it.
I can't imagine that anything but a broadhead would bring down birds--unless, of course you're going for headshots only :biglaugh: .....
We went a couple weeks ago and used Ace Hex Blunts or the new one's that are similar to those. We didn't hit any though so we don't know how they would perform. Didn't want to hurt the dog with broadheads (in case we actually hit a bird).
We learned to give them plenty of lead time. It's hard to retrain yourself to look ahead of the target to aim.
Good news was by the end of the day we were improving, getting closer, and a few feathers were actually knocked off.
QuoteOriginally posted by huntryx:
I can't imagine that anything but a broadhead would bring down birds--unless, of course you're going for headshots only :biglaugh: .....
I shot a Guinnea fowl in africa with a judo and it worked. Just wondering what the guys who have taken pheasants use?
Thanks for the info so far.
Bisch
Pheasants are tough, especially armored from the stern.
Wished I could give you some better news but I think shooting judos or blunts at them will only net you crippled birds. Were I to fiddle around with them with bow, I would only use sharp broadheads...
No dogs=broadheads
Dog=keep your arrow in the bird, the will not get away
I was in the same situation and found just regular field tips would penetrate and bring the birds down. Seemed like judo's penetrated but the bird usually flew quite a ways before going down. The dogs can retrieve the birds and then ring their necks. When not using dogs I always shoot broad heads.
I hit a pheasant out of the air with hex blunt at about 25 feet and put it down... But then it ran another 50 feet and hunkered down under some brush. Good to have the dog on that one
Last year I used straight fletched, 6 feathered flu-flu's...and on the end used a 250gr. field point, with a tiger claw behind it...
Hit 2 out of the air, one was a grazing blow across the back and broke the off side wing...
Second bird was hit dead center perfect and was dead before he hit the ground....penetration was almost up the the feathers...
This was with a 58# recurve....
The set-up was good with the dogs, but still very lethal on the birds.
Skip the flu flus and use blunts (and expect to loose 2/3 of the arrows shot). Flu flus slow the arrow down too much for the blunt to penetrate. I like the hex heads and standard steel blunt.
Bisch check out the RFA Talons. They look to be a good ticket. I normally use broadheads, but hunt without dogs. I've used fieldpoints as well with good results. Good luck, it is FUN!!
I am going at the end of the month and plan to use arrows fletched with four full width feathers (not siraled flu flu), and steel blunts or Hammers. I will have a dog and there is potential for other people to be out and about, so target poit or broahead is out.
I prefer wood shafts, 5.5" feathers and steel blunts. The problem with real flu-flus is the arrow does not have a lot of striking power at longer shots. For them I use three blade broadheads that were made in our town. Not good enough for deer, too soft, but they do a number on pheasants. I have found that a blunt and a standard arrow to be about equal with the three blade on the flu-flu for recovery rates. Arrow speed and arrow weight does need to be considered in anyone's setup. I use fairly heavy bows for pheasants, if I was using 40 pound bows I probably would stick with the broadheads.
This season and last season we have footage of a couple solid hits with broadheads where the arrow was protuding out the breast and they still made it up to 400 yards.
I think a dog is a must, but you better be able to call them off a downed bird if broadheads are involved.
Magnus Bullheads were my favorite head to use. It was not the most lethal head available, but it was safe for the dogs, would shear off wings, and lay them wide open with the right hit. It was also always easier to find because it never got buried in the weeds like a broad head will. The downside is they are expensive and on a straight away flush, the tail feathers absorb so much energy, the bird will fly away virtually unscathed. It is frustrating to make a great shot, solid it, and all you have to show for it is a cloud of feathers.
It is so much fun. Enjoy!
bisch, i've gone about 4x and killed 5 or 6 birds out of the air.the guides did not want us to use broadheads 'cause of the dogs.we used field tips and did fine ...the shots are fairly close.if you use BH ...you'll need a bunch.we practiced with nerf footballs and that makes more of the difference vs. the point used.it is a blast .
On my Bullhead recommendation, my results were with a 65# bow. Lighter weights with definately have different results. A dull 2 blade broadhead would be my second choice. Easy to clean off and you don't have to worry about a sharp head. Plus you can find inexpensive ones.
Mike, Your set-up sounds perfect to me if you can't use FP or BH's....should make the arrows easier to find than not using any kind of flu-flu at all....have fun buddy, it's a blast!!
QuoteThe dogs can retrieve the birds and then ring their necks.
Man, I thought my old lab was good but he couldn't learn to wring the birds' necks. :bigsmyl:
Seriously,
if a dog is involved leave the broadheads and sharp points home. No pheasant in the world is worth a dead, blinded or wounded dog. And the dog's owner just may shoot you.
Have hunted pheasants many times w/o broadheads, field points with zwickey scorpions work, ace classic bodkin point style heads work, have used bowfishing points and also have used razorhead broadheads minus the blades just the ferrule. Kustom king sells a game nabber field point which works as well , no snaro's, hex or rubber they bounce off, sometimes the small judo's bounce off as well. I also have used those turkey heads and they bounce off. Bottom line you need the arrow point in the bird he will go down and if you have a dog you will retrieve.
ive got three with my recurve using flu flus and the hammer small game head from 3rivers!
sgh (small game head) from G5. Devastating on pheasant. I have been bowhunting pheasant for 11 years and have taken a couple dozen or more in the air and I have been witness to many more taken by other hunters. These heads are the best, and they are safe for dogs. Pricey, yes, but with flu flus you wont lose them.
Long sharp BH,s is the only way to go, in my exp. As others have said, those birds are tough, feathers are harder to pentrate than hide. Most shots at pheasants are going away or nearly so kind of shots--if the bird is moving away at 30mph and your bow throws an arrow at 100mph, it makes your 60# bow hit w/ the force of a 40#lb bow. I think this effect is magnified w/ flu flus, unless you get on them quick and nail them as they rise. If a bird flushes 10yds in front of you, by the time you get your bow up and release and arrow that birds out about 25-30 yards and that flu flu just ain't gonna get it when it finally catches up to the bird. Ive hit alot of pheasants with alot of diff. kinds of pts.(not the snaro though- which looks laughable to me) and I can't imagine anything other than a sharp BH. The fear of BH hurting dogs is mostly an unfounded fear. My beagles have been grabbing hold rabbits w. BH's in them for years (at least 100 times)--never had one injured. Can happen of course, but not all that likely-- and the result is apt to be nothing more than a small cut in the dogs mouth, unless you got one 'em dogs that trys to eat the bird!
Thanks for all the input guys! BH's are out of the question as per the owner of the dogs. I'll have to try the field point or G5 small game head. Anyway, as long as I get a few shots (even if I never hit one) I think I will have a blast. If I do bag one it will be hanging in my living room for sure.
Bisch
Bisch,
I will say that the G5 heads on birds with flu flu's are great. They also work wonders on tree rats and bunny ratchets as well. Good luck and post some pics of those tasty pheasants when you are able too.