Hey all:
Wondering if anyone has tried Gorilla glue for inserts. Bohning now make a product called insert iron, from the sounds of the description it might be like gorilla glue.
Thoughts?
Don't do it!
I tried, and the foaming mess got into the threaded part of the insert! Also, as the glue dries it expands and was pushing the insert out (I had to tape it all together as it dried).
For the arrow that worked after gluing, I found that after a few smacks against a hard backdrop the brittle-when-dry Gorilla Glue would fail and the insert would come out anyway. Same with JB Weld or any other brittle glue.
Best, and I mean best, hold I've gotten is from a glue stick. Screw a tip into the insert, hold the insert by the tip in a vice, heat the insert with a lighter from the bottom side until the glue stick readily melts on the insert, melt glue on liberally, push the arrow on to the insert while the glue is still hot, wipe off the excess with a paper towel and BINGO, you're set!
To remove or rotate the insert simply heat the tip again and the whole thing slides out, as one tradganger put it, "Like a greased turd".
Good luck!
Juan
out of all the things i have personally tried, gorilla glue is THE best thing for glueing inserts into carbon shafts.
I know there is a how-to on here somewhere that shows the proper procedure... i think it was this one...
http://tradgang.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=1;t=074690;p=1
I do it just like he does, and haven't had ANY problems with my inserts coming out. You'll notice, he doesn't use water with his gorilla glue.
I like two part marine epoxy. I have yet to have an insert move on me. Even after shooting a 684 grain arrow into a rebar on accident. Tough and the head can be heated and the insert removed.
I have used just about every kind of glue and epoxy on my carbon arrow inserts, and have settled on gorilla glue, if you get any in the threads you can just run a tap to clean them out. Just make sure that your components are clean with acetone or similar, then make sure you dampen the insert and inside of the shaft with water before you add your glue. I like to use an internal footing with mine, a piece of wood dowel glued and then shoved in to place with the insert will make a tough arrow, all i use is a piece about 2" long i take a shaft to the hardware store and find a dowel that will fit inside on the 1/4 inch rack.
So far the Gorilla Glue has worked best for me! I just make sure I clean the shafts and insert good. Im going to start roughing up the inside of the shaft with a .223 bore brush before I clean them.
Gorilla glue is all I uas. I have not lost a insert since using it. About 2 years now.
I clean the shaft(rough up) and insert(rough up) and use two part epoxy. Dries hard and tough.
Mike, never though about the insert as well, how do you rough up your insert?
Sandpaper works well.
not to steal a fellow Texans thread (sorry Chris), but anyone have good/bad experience using Gorilla Glue to glue points on wood shafts? How does Gorilla Glue do on woodys when shot into 3D targets? thanks
I have used it and it worked well. I rough up the insert with sandpaper and acetone the insert and the inside of the shaft and let dry before applying. The best glue I have used for inserts where I haven't had one come out was this fast drying archery glue called "Pine Ridge" I think.
That stuff is tuff
Bob
Best there is.
Bohning had something called power bond or the like and is same, or at least that is what I was told.
It does expand, but if you are clean with your work a small ring will bubble out around where the insert goes into the shaft, wipe that and set upside down to hold the insert in during expansion.
I pre index my inserts before gluing. I screw in a broadhead to an unglued insert and insert into the shaft.
Then I nock and make sure my feathers are aligned (cock in) and rotate the broadhead to where I want it to be when glued.
Then I mark that location with a sharpie on the shaft and insert.
Then I remove the insert and broadhead and put a fieldpoint in the insert and glue in.
Everything else on the market has left me with loose inserts after stump shooting or 3d, except gorilla glue.
Best there is...
The Gorilla 2 part epoxy works very well. I can't get any of my inserts out now....LOL!
I use Goat Tuff glue and that stuff works great. It is like crazy glue so you only need a couple of drops but it holds much better.
Gorilla Glue is the strongest, in my opinion, and I have tested against hot melt, JB Weld, and a number of epoxies. Wash components and the inside of the shaft with dish soap and score (a .223 bore brush is perfectfor the shaft, wet/dry sandpaper for scoring the inserts). Rinse with water, then alcohol, finsh with water (Gorilla glue cures by contact with water, not air). Coat the inside of the shaft all the way up to the nock spot (use a smaller rod or carbon shaft)with glue while its wet. Coat the insert (and all brass weight inserts) with Glue. Push up in, then put the arrows point down on concrete with a weight on the nock end (an upside down boot works great). Let cure 24 hours. I've never had glue squeeze out. If you don't do it this way (especially coating the inside of the shaft), the glue won't expand enough behind the head to hold it in. These hold up against anything, certainly against the water buffalo my wife Karen and I took with them, and the railroad ties we abused getting ready to hunt big game. - Jay Campbell, JD
For carbon shafts I use a .270 cal brass bore brush. It fits fairly tight so I put the brush in a vice grip, insert and twist a few times, this scores the inside of the shaft. I then clean the inside of the shaft with 91% alcohol on a q-tip. Allow the shaft to dry a few minutes then apply a SMALL amount of gorilla glue to the insert. Be sure to twist the insert as you install it to be sure the glue is spread evenly. Allow 24 hours for the glue to dry and you should not have a problem loosing inserts. Mark.
I agree with NCH in that many powerful glues shatter from shock loads. I've had very good luck w/silicone base products (Shoo Goo). They setup well and are easy to heat apart if needed. Ferrule-tite is best but pricy.
use Gorilla Glue all the time with NO problems. I shoot carbons with brass inserts. I have also had good luck with Pine Ridge Archery Products instant arrow glue.
I've had great luck with BSI ICS-2000. It is like Goat tuff glue with rubber particles in it. Really absorbs the shock.
I have never had any luck with gorilla glue. JB Weld works the best of anything I have tried. The 24 hour stuff, not the 15 minute epoxy.
Having used it on wood panel glue ups, I'd say it would be troublesome for inserts. The glue expands a lot, and will at the least make a mess to clean up. I have to scrape the glue from the glue ups, don't know how you could do that on an arrow.
I have also used Gorilla glue on my fishing arrows and had great success. If your having trouble with it your doing something wrong.
I only use hot melt and have never had a problem with the insert staying in, or coming out wwhen I want to remove it...
Can you remove inserts by warming things up when using Gorilla Glue?
I've never had good results with Gorilla Glue. One big, expandable, gooey mess. Prefer JB Weld, Powerbond or hot melt for aluminums.
Goat Tuff for me as well. A couple drops is all thats needed.
I heard that goat tuff was good stuff! For fletchings too.
I use glue sticks from craft aisle. Low temp melt for easy remove. Clean parts is key for inserts to stay, both shaft and insert should get sanded lightly and cleaned.
Thanks for the posts guys, I think my point pulling out was directly related to the size of the point vs the size of the shaft. the 2116 that I cut and put on the end of the shaft seems to equal out the diameter and should fix the point issue. I am going to try the gorilla glue tonight.
i treid gorilla glue on my feathers today and so far its holding up!