What woods would you choose in order to have the most durable hunting bow? Are some woods more resistant to damage, and or the elements? I'm looking for what you would have if you were going on a month long wilderness hunt with only one bow to depend on. We are going to assume that every wood performs the same in the bow design, so don't factor that in.
I have owned some really pretty bows as well as some really plain bows. I did find that most of the time I tried really hard not to scratch my fancier bows. Not like I beat the others, just that a scratch or whatnot bothered me a whole bunch more on a fancy bow. That plus the fact that I'm sick of banging my head on the wall trying to decide what mix of woods will make the next knockout! I'm not interested in a camo bow, as I still like the look of wood (even actionwood looks pretty good to me, and certainly better than camo IMO).
Please throw out some suggestions for the most durable, rugged bow wood so I can look some over. Thanks...Mike
3 lam bamboo Hill.End of story
OSAGE. Jim
I don't like the way it looks myself but if you can handle looking at Osage it's the toughest wood you can get for anything.
That being said, I don't think there's enough of a difference to worry about. The finish on the bow should be what takes most of the abuse from the elements. If I'm going to shell out the money for a custom bow, it better be able to take normal hunting conditions. I'm not going to beat a bear to death with it or nothing but I do expect to be able to take it hunting regardless of the woods or conditions.
Dymondwood
I guess I should've stated this as well. I am concerned about some of the exotic woods being too oily and risking separation if the glue doesn't adhere properly or cracking after it dries. I know there is a good chance this will never happen, but what woods would just about guarantee that it doesn't...Mike
Dymondwood is some tuff stuff.
Impregnated maple:futurwood,diamondwood call as you want is as hard as a rock.Longbows are tougher than recurves.Said that I get some Old Bear of the 50's,some original owners are passed away,they still shoot fine.Any bow you gonna buy if used properly will last some generations of bowhunters.LOL
Sounds like you're talking about glass lam bows rather than true wood bows. If that is the case, I can't see any manufacturer using a material that stands a higher chance of delaminating. A reputation gained for delaminating bows would be pretty hard to get rid of.
Given that, I can't see the wood making any difference at all.
Guy
I'm kinda new to trad archery but I've been trying to catch up in the categories that are important to achieving consistent accuracy.
It appears to me there are two different aspects to a trad bow, the drive part & the looks. Bamboo & carbon seem to both be the deal of speed vs. smooth draw, with carbon also adding increased stability. The rest seems to be about looks and that's a personal choice.
'Boo and Maple in Your Lams, Fast and With Authority Limb Action.
Osage, plus it's beautiful!
Seriously, though, osage is the heaviest, densest, hardest wood in North America. Just try splitting a knarley, knotty, twisted 6-foot osage stave on a hot summer day with only hammers and wedges!
The domestic woods might not be the most popular but they are probably the best. Osage, hard rock maple, and walnut. I'd throw black locust in there too.
If I am not mistaken, which I am not ;)
you want a bow with a hard and heavy, thus stable riser and
light, flexible and compression tolorant limbs!
Risers :
There are many good riser woods out there, from most ebony types, lygnum vitae,
blackwood, snakewood, cocobolo, bacote, rosewood, bloodwood etc..
The important thing is to get a very dense wood, which one, is up to what you like to look at.
Here is a site I got from Whip, which contains info on each woodtypes density.
http://www.bellforestproducts.com/exotic-wood/
Limbs :
In my opinion, the shooting qualities varies alot from wood to wood,
and the limbs are arguably the most important part of your bow.
Well established limbmaterials (excluding horn, carbon & foam) are :
Bamboo, yew and osage are said to be top notch in every aspect of shooting.
Close, if not equal, are maple, myrtle, hickory, juniper and elm.
There are many other riser and limbwoods that will do the job,
but those I listed have an established reputation already!
For thuroughness' sake, here is a ling with some info and a motherload of pictures off
different woodtypes and variations! Combine as you see fit, but remember, the bowyers know best :)
http://www.hobbithouseinc.com/personal/woodpics/
-SveinD, Norway-
The only way I would take one bow on a month long trip is if it were an aluminum riser with two sets of limbs.Anything could happen.
My Widow PLX is about as bomb proof as any single bow set up.The riser is all black glass, no wood.
I love Osage! Prettier with age you know.
Any of the laminates....or Hard Maple.
Osage riser and maple limbs are just about bullet proof.
Chuck
Osage is definately one of the more dense and tougher woods you can get, and there are some pretty pieces of it as well if you look hard enough.
One of the things I like a lot about my Bighorn was the heavy, coarse, dull epoxy like coating on the whole bow. Seems indestructible to me. That is the type of finish I would want on any hunting bow. Any bow with Maple, Osage, Bamboo, Hickory, I think would be tough bows. I like a laminated maple riser to start with. Best limb woods are up to the bowyer as far as I'm concerned.
I like hickory,osage,red elm,black locust and maple actionwood for the limbs if toughness,longevity and durability is the #1 priority.
My 62" longbow is all Cocobolo. It's beautiful and fast with Bamboo cores. I love it! Sticks out like a sore thumb tho...
I intend to have another built with Zebra veneers. I think it's pretty and offers a nice natural camo.