this may be a ridiculous ? when you use water based Polyurethane to seal your crest and the dip,how do you thin it out or don't you. I know most of you guys use non-water based but I have gallons of water based and I want to use it up.Any help is appreciated. :confused:
I use the water base also and just use it without thinning. I don't dip mine but use a cheapo foam bruch for application and put on 3 or 4 coats.I also put a coat on before cresting to seal the wood.
Denny
I thin mine on a 1 to 1 basis, one quart poly to one quart water. I like mine to run off the end of the shaft for 10 seconds and then drip for another 15 or 20. 4 or 5 coats.
i do the same exact thing as longstiks
I never sealed the capdip, never thinned the poly.
Called a manufacturer about going over the cap, you can do it, but they told me to wait seven days after the cap was dry before you dipped the water based poly. Otherwise you can trap moisture under the new finish.
I applied the water based poly over the cresting, right at the crestor using a brush.
Always used Testors to crest, dries super fast. Ussually waited a half hour or so after the final paint coat, before applying the poly.
Worked good for me.
Jim
I do the samething as longstiks. Been doing it that way for years.
Darren
I just paint on the simple primitive crest I use and use a foam brush to apply the Minwax Poly I've been using for years now. No thinning.
I do it the way John49 does, (those gallons will do about a 1000 dozen shafts!) Watch your crest if you use a sharpie, the water base poly made mine run once, ended up looking like crap. I stain my shafts first with a Minwax stain,oil base, then dip 'em in the water base poly. Found an arrow in the lawn about 4 years after the kid missed a ground hog, the fletch was gone, Snuffer rusted terribly, but the finish was still great.
One more thing, the down side of waterbase, your arrows will "stick" in 3d foam, the friction makes the foam melt and it builds up on the shaft.