I just recently bought one of these from a fellow Tradgang member and I have concluded that it's just.....unbelievable! I had heard all the good things said about them and so I thought I would see what the big deal was all about. Well, I found out. They are everything people say they are. Easiest thing I've ever used to sharpen broadheads with, period. In no time flat, I sharpened three, dull, Magnus, two-bladed heads. And I mean they are SHARP now! I have hardly any hair left on my left arm from testing the edges of them after I ran them across the stone.
If you're considering trying one out, don't hesitate!
Amen Doug. You'll be amazed at the difference in the increase of blood on the trail. Sharp cuts bleed more.
I have the broadhead sharpener and the knife sharpener. I found I really like the broadhead sharpener better although either can be used for broadheads. Not sure why it works better for me but I sharpened some dull Zwickey eskimos and they are extremely sharp after very little time. And, the slight curved cutting edge of the Eskimo is a little bit more difficult (barely) than a straight edged broadhead.
kme is tops. period!
Got the broadhead kit back in August and my broadheads and bleeders have never been so sharp.Easy to use too!
Doug, Glad you like the broadhead sharpener. Nothing like a good sharp broadhead. Just got back from the ATA show but seen this and wanted to say thanks for all your support. If you ever have any questions don't hesitate to contact us. We are gearing up for the big show in Harrisburg but we always have time for our customers. We are upgrading the website and we will be adding a trophy room for successful KME hunters. Thanks again.
Will KME be at Kal?
Been thinking about buying one, I guess I will have to try them. I am stricken with the ability of not being able to sharpen a broadhead, hopefully this will help me.
Jason, I was only fair at sharpening broadheads on a stone or rod before. The KME is very easy to use. I went to their website and watched the instruction video and in no time I was using it to perfection.
The one thing I need, which would make it even better, is a bigger stone. Mine is just a tad short and too narrow at 5" X 1.5". I would really like to get hold of a good 6" X 2" stone like the Norton IB6 or even the IB8.
I've got one....does a dandy job on my Sasquatches!!!! Easy as pie!!!
If you liker the broadhead sharpener that much you've got to try the knife sharpener.
Patrick
I need to get one of these. My old Lansky does pretty good but it's a pain sometimes especially when I'm not paying attention and slip of the end of it.
Jake, are you planning to be at Kalamazoo?
KME is absolutely the best! I'm amazed everytime I use it! It makes sharpening things fun because of the outstanding results achieved!
ElkNut1
Hey Jake I'll be in Harrisburg all week 2700 Isle Timberline Outtfitters NM AZ,where are you showing I'll swing by and say howdy.Besides I could use a few more stones.For all tou sharpening challanged folks do yourself a favor and get a KME it's an awsome product :thumbsup:
I agree...using cardboard as the last step really makes a difference for that final sharpening. I got these directions from Ron...might be helpful to others. I had asked him specifically about single bevels....
Use of the KME Broadhead Sharpener on single bevel broadheads (as described by Ron)
First: We're not changing the bevel per say, we're just adding a very narrow secondary bevel right at the very cutting edge. It's called a duplex bevel and it's commonly used bevel geometry among knife makers for making cutting edges extremely sharp and very durable. You still have your 25 degree primary bevel but right at the cutting edge, it increases to about 26 or 27 degrees.
Secondly: There's a huge difference in the amount of time it takes to sharpen an "out of the pack" laminated tip BH like a Magnus II or Zwicky Delta, and a BH that comes out of the pack with well ground bevels like a Magnus Stinger or your Samurai.
Steps
1. 90% of the "work" on a single bevel is done on the bevel side. (I use a back/forth motion to speed up the process). With the coarsest grit stone that you're going to use, (in your case the fine side of the Norton), work just the bevel side until you have raised a burr. It doesn't need to be big and heavy, just a light continuous burr from tip to heel. This should take about 2 minutes max.
2 Now, don't do anything with the burr just yet.
3. Instead go to the hard Arkansas and do the same thing to polish the bevel. As you do this, the burr will get a little bigger.
4. When the bevel is polished to your liking, flip the clamp and using all forward strokes, do the absolute minimum necessary to remove the burr from the unbeveled side. I'll do 3-5 forward passes down the stone and check the edge for sharpness... not quite there...? Do a couple more and check again.
5. When the blade feels sharp, finish it up by doing a short series of forward strokes flipping the clamp every pass, just like you would a double bevel. This will prevent a burr from re-forming on either side of the blade. It should shave hair readily at this point.
6. As a last step, I'll strop the blade on a piece of plain corrugated cardboard. Leave the head in the sharpener and pull it backwards along the cardboard about 10 passes on one side of the blade then 10 more on the other side, then 1 flip, 1 flip, 1 flip. The head should now shave effortlessly.
Give that a try and let me know how you make out.
Note: I've had people question if this isn't putting a micro bevel on the unbeveled side? The answer is it shouldn't because we're only spending enough time on the unbeveled side to remove the burr, and the burr is actually built up above the flat surface of the unbeveled side. We're just taking off the burr and don't really go so far as to create a micro-bevel. Even if we do, the bevel would only be a few thousandths wide at most. I know Ed Ashby fairly well and we have talked about this. Ed says, even if we do go so far as to create a micro bevel on the unbeveled side, he's seen no difference in performance or rotation in his testing.
LongBow'erman. I can dull the sharpest knives and broadheads in just a few tries with most sharpening aids- but I can even use the KME systems. I have both sharpeners and KME are the first systems that I can consistantly use to get my gear scary sharp. It HAS to be good if I can make it work!
You guys have sold me, I will be getting one soon. Thanks!
me too before next season unless i come across a deal
90% sure I will have some knife and broadhead systems at K-zoo. Keep checking for details.
Boy....if I had any money I'd buy me one of them.......
For sure the best thing I've tried for 2 blade heads. Getting it shap enough to shave your face with is not too difficult at all.
It looks like it would not work on a hill style head without some type of attachment is that true or will I have to use the Razor Edge sharnener?? I currently just use a file or ceramic rods which I'm not completely happy with. :confused:
Have both the knife and broadhead sharpener and now all my friends want me to sharpen their knives and broadheads. They get so sharp they think you are an expert and really I was the worst at sharpening before the KME. Truly a great product.
Ron and I are working on an attachment for curved heads. If we get it done in time for K-zoo it will only be for display. Crossing my fingers. We'll see....
Otto with all them Randall knives you need a good sharpener. I thought I showed you how to sharpen a knife at Cloverdale....
Jake:
Would the KME knife sharpener work for hills if one could attach a jewel stick rather than a flat stone? It looks like that would work but don't know for sure.
Red Boar, I called Ron last year and he gave me the same advice about the cardboard. It DOES make a huge difference.
Billy
Thanks everyone for the kind words. Glad to hear that so many of you are getting your knives and broadheads "tuned".
Fixer, you're a wise man. You'd need to set the angle pretty high to clear the ferrule on the Hills but yes, that would work. We have something like that and a few other accessories coming in the next couple months. Thanks very much again everyone,
Ron