Anybody use this system. I have never had a 2 peice bow. I have decided I like one peice bows with locator type grips better than anything else and a 66" or 68" bow is harder to travel than a short bow. So I'm gonna give a 2 peice a shot.
I think Dick Robertson uses on his Longbows.
I had one on a Morrison LB a few years ago, and it worked fine. However, I have seen a few threads about their reliability or structural issues with some bows.
I've never owned one with the bow bolt system, but it appears to be a favorite for 2-pc bows.
Have you ever looked at a "socket" type take down? Cari-bow, Black Widow, Big Jim Bow Co....and more offer them. You cannot tell they are a take down when they are put together. Super strong too.
I just installed the Connexion hinge on two bows in the past two weeks... well, three actually, if you count a practice run on an old riser. I did a "hinge-along" presentation on my web site, for all three jobs... practice run, a new bow and a conversion. The material includes all my mistakes so you won't have to make them 8^)
www.oldpharttsarchery.com (http://www.oldpharttsarchery.com)
just scroll down to the Bowmaking section and then "Using the Connexion Hinge".
I really like it. It's very positive and strong and the installation is not difficult IF you follow the directions faithfully. Main thing is that once that hinge is on, whether it be on a new build or a conversion, you NEVER take it off. Use epoxy on the screws. If you take it off, it's very hard to get the tension on each of the six screws exactly the same again, and it affects limb alignment. Ask me how I know! If you're aware of that though, it's really great.
Oh, yeah.. it is for bows with fairly straight riser backs, not for those with real strongly curved risers. On my straight longbows, it was a cinch. Nerve wracking when I cut the only bow I've ever taken game with, though!
i have the connexion hinge on my mohawk and i love it - much better for me than any other 2pc t/d device.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v82/rfdee/archery/td12.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v82/rfdee/archery/td13.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v82/rfdee/archery/td14.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v82/rfdee/archery/td15.jpg)
I have owned a couple of Robertson's with the Connection Hinge system, Longbow and a Peregrine Recurve and both were solid, easy to assemble and take down.
Here's a couple of pix of the hinge on my bow:
(http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h186/CaptainDick/tdbow67.jpg)
(http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h186/CaptainDick/tdbow64.jpg)
I did the bow cut with a very thin Japanese draw saw and got a really thin curf. I used a thin leather shim between the pieces, which works well.
I have a small hand, but still don't find the hinge at all bothersome in terms of grip.
I HAVE HAD TWO BOWS WITH THE CONNEXION SYSTEM. I FOUND IT TO BE UTTERLY RELIABLE AND NOT NOTICEABLE WHILE SHOOTING. NO PARTS TO LOSE IN THE MIDDLE OF NOWHERE.
Thanks Rob. That bow is likely my first 2 peice. Vince is great and I haven't found a quieter bow.
My thoughts exactly greybeard. Thanks guys.
I used to have a Northern Mist Classic that utilized this takedown system. When strung, you couldn't tell the difference from a one piece. Didn't have it long enough to comment on durability, but have never heard a bad thing about them.
No problems at all with my Mohawk two piece. Don't really notice the connexion at all.
BOB
When deciding on which two piece system to use, I settled on the carbon socket style because in my opinion it is superior.
Extremely strong, and no matter what, unless you take it apart, no one including the shooter will ever know it is a take down. No noise, no tools, no bumps in the handle, no seam in the grip.
I have people pick take them off the rack and shoot them and never have any idea they are two pieces. They ask why it is more expensive than some other bows on the rack and I have to explain and then show them that it is a take down. Also it can be in most any style of bow from highly reflex deflex, to straigt.
Every one of my personal bows has a td system like this and not one is under 86#'s. I looked at the conexion hinge and it looks good and I would have probably gotten used to it, but I didn't like the way it falls apart when not strung.
If you want to see what one looks like, take a look at my temporary web page. there are several there. All of the bows that have a beaver tail wrap have the td system and there is a pic or two of one taken apart.
Just my 2cents, Bigjim
How available are the carbon sleeves? I've not seen them for sale anywhere. Source? Any webbed presentation of installation? Are they formed on the bow, like the fiberglass sleeves, or installed more like the metal sleeves?
They are the fiberglass sleves. Those that I am familiar with using it (including myself) utilize a couple of wraps of carbon within the handle. They are made on the bow utilizing carbon, fiberglass, and resin. Jack Harrison was producing a CD, but don't know what has come of that. Other than that, I am unfamiliar with any tutorial. I find the system to be fairly easy although teadious to install. Probably not the system for those wanting to convert a finished bow or to just do a couple. The materials can be cost prohibitive unless buying in quantity.
Bigjim
I had that TD system on a BW SAG & Schafer LB I once owned. They were solid and I never had a problem with them when the bows were strung.
As BJ mentioned, I did not like how the bows "fell apart" when unstrung and I do not like the exposed metal "hook" when the bow is taken apart.
My Schafer had a "chip" taken out of and the side of the handle & the riser scratched to heck when the two halves happen to rub together one time transporting them from ON to FL on a hunt one year. Made me sick to my stomach. Beside the standard 3 pc set up, I only own the locket socket design on all of my 2 pc bows now.
Skinner
Big Jim,very nice indeed.
bj, that glass/carbon socket system looks killer. i like the way it allows the grip to be shaped as opposed to a tube socket system.
it does seem to be much more difficult to create than installing a connexion hinge. it would appear the socket needs to be crafted in as the bow is being built, as opposed to the connexion which can be installed on a working bow.
I've built a hinged and two socket selfbows.If I had to hunt with a take down.I like the socket type bows.But I've never own or shot a glass take down.
My Centaur has the hinge in it and I luv it but I've not had any other 2 pcs bows to compare.I've had many people not even notice it was a take down untill I took it down I'd buy another if in the market for a 2 pc system.Widow's locket socket seems nice too probably what Jim's talkin about I didn,t actually look.
Good luck
I've had the connexion hinge on a couple long bows - a Roberston, a Stewart. Friends have them on others. Its the only td system i have used but was very pleased with it. I never ecnountered a problem.
As for structural integrity, just be sure to inquire as of the source. I know some are made offshore. If you want to purchase the hinge yourself, PM me as can put you in touch with a friend of mine that manufactures them and will stand behind his high quality work.
Does anyone has any negative feedback on the connexion hinges installed by Robertson ?
LeTub, I hope not, Dick Robertson invented the connection hinge.
I like mine, it dont "fall apart" when unstrung, and it dont scratch my other bows if I put it in its case when traveling.
Eric
Would the Connexion hinge work on a Bear Montana Longbow? Opinions?