Does anyone have any experience with this product as an arrow finish? Do you use a dip tube like Bohning products?
Jeff,
Excellent arrow finish. I dip mine (no gasket squeegee), let it run off for a few seconds and hang to dry. Light steel wool between coats. It does not dry fast like gasket lacquer - I let mine dry at least eight hours in Summer weather. Temp and humidity will dictate how long. Maybe Snag will chime in as he has a lot of experience with it.
Ray
Have used it the same way Ray does. It is a great finish, I have done 200 Dozen arrows with it.
So you are using a dip tube just like bohning? Then hanging to dry between coats. How many coats do you use?
Where can I buy this finish?
Hi Ray, I do just like you do. I can even dip in colder temps as long as I let it dry for at least 8hrs. The finish is great and holds up as target burn pretty well. Love this stuff. The consistancy is perfect for just letting it run off.
cannot thank snag enough for turning me on to Daly's Profin. Simply an awesome product and I can find no fault in it !
I made me a 1" PVC dip tube about 34" long with an adaptor on top that bumps it up to 2" diameter. That way as I dip the arrow down and start displacing material it has room to expand into the 2" part and not run over the top. It also gives me finger room and the ability to see exactly where I am dipping and can get right to the nock. Could have just bought a big dipper from 3 rivers but had the PVC laying around.
As snag also said I wait at least 8-10hrs or more between coats and lightly sand with 320 grit between coats for good adhesion between coats of Profin. When finished I just tilt my tube up and let it run back in the quart can. Hardley any waste as 99% will run back in the can. As I use this product if it starts to thicken up I can add a touch of mineral spirits to keep it running like new. Probably will not have to thin it until I am down close to the end of the quart. I dip four coats and get little to no target burn. Thanks again snag !!!
nocams
Just passing it along....glad to help. Fun stuff!
Woops..... forgot to also tell you the other great thing about Daly's Profin.... Use $1 a tube Duco for nocks and feathers from Family Dollar Store. The duco " melts " down into the Profin and you cannot even see the duco when you are thru fletching.
nocams
Three coats
Thanks for the info. Where can you purchase profin?
You can get ProFin from Bob Burton at Whispering Wind Arrows, I am sure others places sell it though. Flint
dragonheart, you lucky dog ! If I remember right there is a distributor for Dalys in TX, cannot remember what city ? I had to order my satin Profin from Daly's direct. It was $17 + $17 for hazmat shipping from Dalys to TN for me. Go to Daly's website or call them and they will fix ya up.
nocams
OK, i am going to give this a try.
DO NOT try to put Bohning paints over top of ProFin unless you want a crinkle effect paint job. You can use ProFin over Bohning though.
I dip one coat of Bohning Clear to give a good base for my crown dips and crest. Dip my colors with Bohning, crest with Bohning, and then cover with 2 coats of Profin.
If you use a white crown dip, Profin will turn it slightly yellow. When I crown with white, I will dip the first coat of Profin from the point end, then dip second coat from the nock end to minimize yellowing.
BP
How is ProFin for waterproofing the shaft? That's one of the biggest objections I see to gasket lacquer is the claim that it's useless in wet climates.
Guy
ProFin is supposed to be a very good moisture barrier. I know it holds up much better than GL. I once lost 2 arrows at one target at a shoot. There was snow on the ground so I didnt find them til the next shoot several weeks later. One had GL and was peeling badly. The other was ProFin and in fine shape. ProFin is oil based if I am not mistaken.
BP
I have lost arrows at a shoot and have found them in a lost arrow bucket in one case 2 years later. The arrow was sealed in Pro-Fin. Don't know how long the arrow was in the weather but by the looks of it, it was a while. I inspected the arrow, refletched and had no issues. That arrow and the few others held up well. Pro-Fin on woods always.
I stain with Minwax, then crown dip with Rustoleum, then crest with waterbased paint (I like the paint Whispering Winds sell), then I dip in Profin...no problems with running paint or yellowing. When I used to use Spar Urethane over time the white paint would yellow...NOT with Profin.
Snag,
You are using spray paint to crown dip? Then you can use the profin over that? Is that correct.
I also spray the crown. Then crest and finaly dip in the Pro-Fin. Absolutly no issues.
Question re Pro Fin and dyes. I use water and alcohol based dyes on shafts and poly mutes the colors so bad they are barely noticeable. Does the profin "dull down" colored stains like poly does or do the colors stay vibrant after the first coat?
How many dozen can you get done out of a quart?
Sea-Fin applies the same way but its made for exterior
Tim
Thanks Tim....will have to check out the Sea-Fin.
Isn't the Sea-Fin a spar urethane? I switched to Pro-fin because spar yellows white or lighter colors.
I don't spray the crown. I thin down Rustoleum and dip the crown. I don't paint over my sealer coats. Never figured out how that would be a good idea! I crown dip, crest, and then seal it all! That way the cresting is protected. I don't like the idea of the cresting being exposed. By sealing over the cresting it also helps to even out the surface.
I think pro-fin is what Bob Burton @ whispering wind arrows does their arrows with.
Yes it is. I got started with it through them. The ProFin is an indoor/outdoor finish that will hold up well to moisture. The SeaFin is a spar urethane. So it will yellow over time. But it will be more moisture proof. For arrows the ProFin is plenty waterproof.
spar urethanes are also softer and less heat resistant....a.k.a. target burn. Stick with the Profin.
got mine from bob burton when I got hisbarreled shafts a1 sealer
I also use and love the stuff.
I dip just like the rest of the guys.
I do strain mine being I buy it by the gallon with the cheap strainers you can buy at home depot (highly recommended)
It does dry SLOOOWly! You can speed it up a bit with a heat box. I wont tell you mine for fear of burning someones house down..lets just say my little buddy heater gets some extra use LOL. I'd like to build a box using lights instead but have never bothered. I plan on making a rod building drying box and doubling it for just this purpose.
I will say this, it target burns just like MOST softer finishes badly. Nothing a bar of soap doesnt fix. If you want a no burn finish try the massey finish. Nothing else comes close when it comes to lack of target burn. Its also extremely waterproof, and super slow drying lol. More compatiblity issues.
Grey it works great for waterproofing where gl is terrible!
I prefer to use 400 or 600 grit paper between coats and tack cloth versus steel wool. I do steel wool when i get lazy ;) .
I also prefer the gloss over the satin. They say gloss is the hardest....you can dull it down with paper or sw if you want. i dont see the need. If an animal is close enough to spook from a glossy shaft it had better be dead!
my question how about cystal fin its a non yellowing clear has anyone ytyed it? waterbase.
Marlon.....
Dont over coat your caps/crest and you'll get no yellowing.
The profin has a nice color (I dont stain I like it so much!)
Anybody wipe it on like poly????