Can anyone offer opinions from experience using "woodyweights" on your wood shafts? I have a bunch of fairly nice wood arrows that I made up when I apparently knew even less than I do now about spine and shart length, etc. The result was a lot of way over-spined arrows for my bows. Wouldn't the increased foc weaken the spine and perhaps make them functional for me? Not sure how much the weight difference would make with the cedar, fir and ash arrows. Any tips?
If you go with the real heavy ones it would get you both a weaker spine and high Foc which you need both of. problem is you have to get used to the funny look of them and you need to use a lot of glue to keep them on
I love them. I'm using 125 grain along with 125 grain heads, and I get really good arrow flight and better penetration. Give them a try.
Very good product, well made and provides a great front-end struture for your bh. You will have to factor in the weight of the bh you intend to use and think about how the combined weight with the ww will affect the spine of your arrows.
Using ww's allows you to shoot a heavier arrow with a spine that is much stiffer than you would otherwise shoot.
I recommend installing bh's with JB Weld. I've had poor luck using hot melt.
Thanks Eric, I was just about to ask what glue to use bevause I have had trouble keeping them on with Hot Melt. I'll give the JB Weld a try!
Sorry for the hijack---but wouldn't JB weld ruin the chances of re-using a broadhead in the event of a broken shaft?
I have just started using them and am very happy. The alignment issues some have concerns about have been nonexistent.
I ground the 75 grain weights down to 50 grains and put them with a Magnus I 4 blade to make a nasty 200 grain head.
Unlike a broadhead adapter, the Woody Weights are smooth...if you clean them thoroughly and rough them up good prior to adding your point the hot melt adheres much better.
Those rings are on broadhead adapters for a reason. :D
Hi Dick,
I used the woodies on some arrows this year, I had no problems with any alignment or hot melt issues. CLEAN WELL AND LOTS OF GOOD CLEAN HEAT WORKS EVERYTIME. Mike Deppe Is a stand up guy and his invention gives a shooter lots of options to use when tuning arrows,wood or otherwise. I put them into an old broadhead I wanted to use and then mounted onto a steel adapter. It was longer than I was used to seeing on my tip but I shot my target from all angles and then I went to a hexhead and went stumping to see about bending problems. I had NO problems. I think with a wood arrow and your choice of head, you can really build a great flying arrow, with all kinds of EFOC.
Good luck.
Chuck
i like using the braveheart archery internal footing jig - works great, cheap, and also makes the arrow shaft way less likely to break off behind the point.
I haven't ordered the Braveheart footing jig yet but do plan on purchasing one.
I have used 100 gr woodyweights and must say I've been impressed. No problem with the hot melt and I just roughed up w/50 grit sandpaper and cleaned with Isopropyl alcohol.
I'm shooting 60-65 and 70-75 supercedars at 31", 100 gr. ww's and both 190 Tuskers and Grizzly single bevel.
Recently switched bows and may have to make some alterations.
everyone that's tried my bh footed woodies loves 'em, and watching me install 'em cinches it - too easy.
woodyweights are just front end weights, whereas the bh footed woodies are actual arrow shaft strengthening footings that can add some goodly front end weight and increase foc. try the bh foot woodi jig!
How hard is it to get 150-200 grains with that jig Rob?
QuoteOriginally posted by Two Tracks:
How hard is it to get 150-200 grains with that jig Rob?
i never drilled in deeper than 3" and that netted me near 100 grains with a steel nail. with a 6" bit, careful drilling, and loading with fat lead solder, that should be darned close to 200 grains i'd think.
QuoteOriginally posted by Rob DiStefano:
QuoteOriginally posted by Two Tracks:
How hard is it to get 150-200 grains with that jig Rob?
i never drilled in deeper than 3" and that netted me near 100 grains with a steel nail. with a 6" bit, careful drilling, and loading with fat lead solder, that should be darned close to 200 grains i'd think. [/b]
Do you have a tutorial here somewhere? That sounds pretty slick.
I've used both and the woody weight are good, but as stated above the internal footing jig is better for me. I, like Rob get 100 grains, then use 160 or 190 grain point up front.
How does the internal footing effect spine?
Rob, you've convinced me. I'm going to have to get in touch with Tim.
I'm glad you all are liking your jigs! :thumbsup: I didn't mention them initially since the original question was in regard to Woody Weights.
Those of you who are waiting to pull the trigger on an Internal Point Jig, be forewarned due to circumstances beyond our control there will be a price increase in a few days...now would be a good time to buy. :D
Getting much more than 100 grains with the Internal Point Jig is not easy, like Steadman I use the internally loaded arrow with heavy points.
QuoteOriginally posted by Stiks-n-Strings:
How does the internal footing effect spine?
for me, absolutely no effect at all. ymmv.
QuoteOriginally posted by Spectre:
QuoteOriginally posted by Rob DiStefano:
QuoteOriginally posted by Two Tracks:
How hard is it to get 150-200 grains with that jig Rob?
i never drilled in deeper than 3" and that netted me near 100 grains with a steel nail. with a 6" bit, careful drilling, and loading with fat lead solder, that should be darned close to 200 grains i'd think. [/b]
Do you have a tutorial here somewhere? That sounds pretty slick. [/b]
i know i wrote up about it somewhere, danged if i can find it now. if you go on the www.braveheartarchery.us (http://www.braveheartarchery.us) website, click on 'arrow building', you'll see these pics that pretty much show it all ....
(http://www.braveheartarchery.us/Jig1A.JPG)
(http://www.braveheartarchery.us/Jig2A.JPG)
(http://www.braveheartarchery.us/Jig3A.JPG)
(http://www.braveheartarchery.us/Jig4A.JPG)
Ok, thanks.
The idea of a footing inside the shafts seems good and desired. The addition of much more than 100gn seems tuff, if you want to maintain the "footing" advantage.The lead soldier would only add weight.
Dick, The Michigan made Woodie weights go up to 200gns. They glue on just like a field point.
I guess the choices are varied and it will depend on how you want to get to your destination. But, to answer your original question, The woodie weights work well and give you a large varity of quick change options for tuning your arrows.They can be used on any arrow material as well. I think you will enjoy them. And YES! if you load up the front end you can lessen your spine and use the arrows you have. Mike sells a sample pack that will give you a couple of each weight to try and then once you know what you need you can get a pack of that weight.
Chuck
FWIW: I will be ordering the footing jig asap.
I have an idea that I think will be slick.
TTT
QuoteOriginally posted by Stiks-n-Strings:
How does the internal footing effect spine?
Obviously adding front weight can affect your tune, however with the internal weight I find less change than I typically would had I simply added more point weight. I believe it is because the weight is behind the point, not extended out front.
Tim I will be getting ahold of you Monday. how deep of hole can you drill?
Chuck, you can get 1 3/4" to 2 inches with the standard bit. With the longer bit you can go a lot deeper BUT of course the deeper you go any imperfection in alignment shows up in a negative way.
I find 3 plus inches very reasonable to achieve with the longer bit, which allows quite a bit of weight. We've had guys go as deep as 5" but that gets pretty dicey, up to 4" with care is doable but I believe 4" is the absolute upper limit range.
Most of my personal arrows are in the 2 to 3 inch range for depth.
If you don't mind spending a little more money tungsten is the heaviest and strongest option. I forget what it weighs if Tim has any left maybe he will weigh it for us :)
The internal footing jig is also made in Michigan!
Andy
Chuck,
I believe Tim is looking for dealers as well :)
Thanks Tim and Andy.
Thanks alot for the info fellas. Looks like there are a couple of options for salvaging the collection of older over spined woodies - - I'd probably use them for stumpin'. Best regards and good new year to all.
Dick
I've done this myself using my own drilling system and 1/8 inch lead wire. Like Tim, I find 2" to be very practical and 3" about the reasonable limit. My lead wire is 35 gr/in. Adding 70 gr up front adds about 5-7 lb to your spine needs and with a 160 gr point really moves the FOC out there.
The thing with drilling is that it is permanent and not adjustable. The Woody Weights can be changed around easily. They both have their place.