What size arrow would you recommend for a Jordan Stalker 51# @ 27", 55# @ 28" draw length with a 29" to 30" arrow? Currently shooting 100 Grain broadhead with 70 Grains of brass up front with Beman MFX, but having trouble with arrows breaking on end in front of the HIT inserts when hitting stump or logs with my misses. I just started shotting Trad and my draw varies between 27" to 28" draw length. Right now trying to find consistent anchor point which seems to be more like 27" but it does vary.
A 4# increase in draw weight with a 1" increase in draw length? Sounds like she is stacking. What length bow is it?
Just foot the beman's with a small sleeve of aluminum arrow, toughens up that small section in front of the hit insert.
62" AMO very smooth. Goes to 58#s at 29", 61#s at 30", and 64#s at 31". 62" limbs on 64" riser.
I have had good luck with footing the bemans too. Makes them pretty much bullet proof.
Switch to carbon express arrows I have stump shoot alot with these and 3 d shoots and have never broke one even into a block wall in my basement they are very strong arrows. Gold tips are not as strong I shoot them too they brake alot guicker imo but I do like them anyway.
Gold Tip 35/55 should work,bare shaft tune
The Gold Tips are good arrows, but the Carbon Express are more durable in my experience. They are also more expensive, and heavier by about 20 grains. I would try the CX250 with 200 grains up front.
I like the thought of shooting either brand arrow. I have always shoot Carbon Express out of my compound bows. The only thing that I really like about the gold tip is the brass adapters that can be added to the back of the insert to increase weight up front. I thought it might make them easier to tune. Being a newbie at this traditional thing any advice that you can give to keep me from purchasing multiple dozens of arrows to get this bow to shot properly is appreciated. I don't know anyone locally that has been bitten by the stick and string bug!
If your arrow is splitting up front after hitting hard objects it is because your adhesive is failing and allowing the insert to be driven back. I don't know what you are using on your inserts but if you use a good 2 part epoxy it should solve the problem. I used to have the same problem a long time ago!
I use Goat Tuff glue on my inserts and haven't had any problems with them.
You can get brass inserts for either shaft, they are made in 50 and 100 grns. You can go with the Heritage 150 or GT 55/75.