I am shooting a Fedora 560 1-piece recurve. It is cut about 3/16" past center. How thick are the side-plates and elevated rests that you are using ?
I must have an older 560 one piece. The window is cut to center and the side plate is maybe 1/8" thick. I think you better build the side plate up so the arrow is a little off center (to the left) or you'll struggle with tuning it.
Greg,
You sure about that? I begged ole man Fedora to make mine cut to 3/16 to match my MOrrison, but he only went to Center.
Guess he didn't think I knew my way around a rasp. :)
Since then, I learned from OL Adcock that far past center requires a stiffer arrow by far...but worse, it means the arrow "doesn't know which way to paradox coming off the string..." according to more recent conversations with OL.
I shimmed mine out to center and have to do more to get my FOC up to EFOC by stiffining the arrow spine so I can add more point weight
Doc Noc & Stevem,
I may be measuring the center-shot wrong. With no rest or sideplate with the bow square & looking down the string I see about 1/8" to 3/16" of light between the string & riser (no arrow nocked). A small diameter (approx. 0.295")carbon arrow lines up straight on a bare riser (neither right or left).
I shoot at approximately 52lbs. at a 28.5-29" draw. CE Maxima 350s at 31.5" with 100 gr. brass inserts & 125 gr. point. Little wear on the outside of the shelf, but bareshaft OK.
Everyone tells me my 60" one piece Fedora 560 is fast, but haven't used a chrono. Glass, Osage, and bamboo limbs. Locust riser.
Just to make sure, are you placing the string so it centers the LIMBS then looking at where it passes the site window? Or are you just looking at the handle, the flat edge of the bow or some other place to center it?
I usually try to center the string down the widest parts of the limbs and then look at where it passes the riser.
Dave,
Center the string down the widest parts of the limbs and then look at where it passes the riser.