Aye everbody!!! Ive posted b4 bout my set up n finally found arrows that shoot well. I shot a lil 100lb. buck and had a complete pass through. But now in january we are gona go on a hog hunt. Im shooting the Dyna-bow by humbing bird archery. Its 54lbs at 28ins with epic 600s at full length with 125 grains 2 blade magnus broadheads. My concern is that due to the fact that my draw length is only 24ins. im only shootn about 44lbs. Would this be enough for hogs??? Ive heard they have tough caratledge around the front of their chest cavity and am quite concerned. Can anyone give me some advice??
Hunter Smith.
Low and tight to the elbow and a sharp head should do the job well. Just remember that they carry thier vitals lower and forward from a white tail.
You might be shooting even less than 44#'s if you're only drawing 24".....and you're shooting an extremely light arrow!
If you can't shoot more poundage, I would advise to at least bump your arrow weight up...A LOT! Also a high "FOC" arrow will help....
The thing with hog hunting, you never know what might show up...a 30#'er or a 300#'er....and boars are way harder to shoot thru than sows...
Good Luck and let us know how you make out...
IMO..what Guru has said is perfect advice.
Take heed. Take heed.
QuoteOriginally posted by Richie Nell:
IMO..what Guru has said is perfect advice.
Well, maybe not "perfect" advice, but darned close to perfect! :notworthy: :archer:
Allan
Well, he is a Guru.
Believe me fellas..."Guru" has nothing to do with bowhuntin" :(
Oh Ok now you tell us.
I thought I was gettin smarter all this time.
I'm goin back to light fast arrows and 90 gr. five blade broadheads.
Try an Axis 500, glue a steel insert at least 125 grains in a 125 grain Magnus. That will give you at least 250 up front. Make sure you have perfect flight and a super sharp point. Bill
Hunter
(Kingwouldbe) would tell to you use more arrow weight and FOC, also shoot a Two blade, he has killed a lot of hog's.
:saywhat:
Yeah i definately have left the arrows at full length for more weight. I would definately prefer a heavier arrow upon yalls advice. What are yalls suggestions????? Is their any way i can increase the weight of my current arrows(they shoot supper). I shot Easton Heritage 150's at 27 inches, but they were to stiff. Also thanks for the advice on shot placement, thas definately something i needed to kno.
Hunter Smith.
If your arrow is full length now...then I would not hesitate to cut it a bit to make it too stiff. Then load up the front to weaken it back to flying straight.
There is a number of ways to load up the front. I am currently using heavy inserts and small (50 gr.) bullet worm weights. I shape them with pliers to fit real tight then shove them down the shaft to the insert.
If done correctly, this will increase total weight, increase FOC, fly better and be a more lethal arrow.
HS - I have taken a pig with a 32# recurve. I was careful to select my pig, my shot and my spot. I was using 10gpp but that is still a light arrow.
I hunt by myself alot. I only shoot pigs that I can handle on foot and maybe a couple of miles from the truck.
this puts the pigs in the 50 to 80 pound range (i am an old geezer :) ). the use of a string tracker is a good idea if you are hunting in thick cover. I use a sight. the string tracker moved the impact point of my light arrow 5 inchs low at 20 yds. I know they say the string tracker does not effect arrow flight. that was not the case for the 32# rig. I just adjusted my sight.
My shot was at 10 yds. arrow penetrated to the fletch and was hanging out the off side.
rusty
With your 24 inch draw length, I bet you could shorten a set of 600's up enough to put a 100 or 125 grain broadhead adapter or insert into the shaft. Put a 150, 175, 0r 200 grain head on the front, whichever will tune out best, and you will have a pig stopping arrow. If it was me I would make sure the head was a single bevel two blade with a tanto tip and razor sharp. Ron at KME can hook you up with some grizzlies.
When you start working with new arrows, you will want to leave them full length and start cutting them down as you work on bare shaft to fletched field point tuning.
I personally prefer to bare shaft to fletched tune all of my arrows. Set your nock point for proper up and down first. Then start cutting the shafts in 1/4 inch increments while working out the proper length and head weight. Keep shortening the shafts until the bare shafts are about 1 inch low and 1 inch right of your fletched shafts. I will say it really clearly. Don't cut the shafts at all. Start at full length and the lightest heads. Get them tuned. If you have enough shaft length to cut some more off. Try the next head weight up and keep the process going. Once you have the head weight and length figured out, then.....
The next step is to test fletched field points to fletched broadheads. Normally at this point you can adjust brace height, add or remove string silencers, etc... to fine tune the groups. Both arrow sets should hit in the same spot.
If you cant get 600's to work out then bump up to the 500's and start over. I am willing to bet the 600's will work at around 26 inches long or a bit more. With a lot of weight up front you should be able to get into the middle 25% FOC and over 600 grains of weight. These kind of arrows will kill hogzilla with a shot in the boiler room.
All you need is half a dozen full length shafts. The fletched and three unfletched to work all this out. Once you have the bare shaft to fletched completed. Buy another half dozen and set them up for your broadheads.
Good luck and let us know what you end up with.
Hogs are tough and built like little tanks armor in all the right places and plenty of fat to stop bleeding. Shot placement will be your key to success. I might suggest you make up or get a hog target and practice for the type of hunt you plan.
It is adrenaline pumping to face a 250 boar with razor sharp tusks but a 100 lb sow tastes so much better.
Here is a picture of my brother on one of my Pig Platforms in Florida
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii45/heilakka/2010/DSCN4628-1.jpg)
and here is his Hog. Shot a tad high,but right by the shield. It took us a good 30 minuets to track the 50 yards due to very little blood and the number of hog tunnels we had to crawl through. We were lucky he ran out of cover.
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii45/heilakka/2010/DSCN4634.jpg)
Anatomy of a feral hog. GOOD LUCK.
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii45/heilakka/anathog.gif)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii45/heilakka/feralhog1.jpg)
I have to go with what Guru suggested on this one. :thumbsup:
I think the arrow set up is to light too. I've noticed a big difference in penetration when I switched to extreme FOC on my setup. I'll bet you could get some Heritage 150's to fly with brass inserts and a heavy broadhead. Check out Stu millers Dynamic spinetester to see what your dynamic spine iswith your current setup and that will let you know what you need to do to get perfect arrow flight with a heavier arrow. I was going crazy trying to find the right setup with some carbon express rhino shafts until using the dynamic spine tester and realized I needed another 50gr up front with my 200gr broadheads. You can dowload the free dynamic spine tester at the link.
http://heilakka.com/stumiller/
Thanks to all, you guys have been the greatest with the advice. This is very much appreciated. Some of the stuff Clay was saying about tuning sounds like jobberish to me, as i am not experienced enough with the whole tuning thing yet. But i will save it, and keep going over it till i figure this all out. Again, MANY thanks to everyone for their advice. I hope everyone has lots of luck for the rest of the huntin season.
Hunter Smith.
Oh and by the way, where in the world are yall gettin all these super heavy broadheads and fieldpoints???? I looked at 3 rivers and couldnt find any. Did i overlook something?? Oh and fellas i dont kno what all these abreviations are that yall are usein, im a newby to this forum. Yall got to spell it all out for this Tarheel hayseed. Agains thanks so much for all the good advice.
Hunter Smith.
most carbon arrows you can take out the standard insert (the part the feild point/broadhead screws into)and you can get 50 to 100 grain insert to bump up the weight,or a steel adapter up front and a heavy broadhead, if your shooting 44 pounds your arrow needs to be 440 grains to 550 grains,heavy arrow will add to the penatration.call one of the arrow sponsers on here or call dale at 3 rivers and tell him your new to trad and tell him what you are shooting and what you are gonna be hunting,the guys and gals of trad are a family and will share every thing to help someone out.dont feel bad about not understanding all the terms ,everyone has been there ,i know i have! :thumbsup:
foc= foward of center ,go to the main forum and look under dr.ashby reports .some very good info.
Hunter,
missagain is right, it is gonna blow your mind at the information you can mooch off all these trad bow holders.
Dr. Ashby's work is pretty incredible especially his latest research on the killing power of a 40# bow with ultra FOC arrows.
Lots of good advice here for sure. They aint like deer.....and stated earlier...there's a big difference in a 30 pounder vs a 300 pounder...and a big difference in a 150 Pound shielded boar and a 300 pound sow. Its easier to get through the sow for sure.
Shot placement is key on hogs no matter the equipment...the vitals are more up front and tilted at an angle making for a better shot advantage than deer as well.
I like Wensel Woodsmans on hogs....as with my set up they work like a charm....but with yours, I'd choose more of a 3-1 ratio 2 blade. Tusker Concord, Brown Bear by Abowyer, Stos, Grizz etc.
Best of luck to ya....and post a hero pic for us would ya?
You can actually SEE the saddle bags on some of the heavy shielded boars. I saw them on this guy at 75 yards away...You can obviously see the raised hump(heavy shield) around the wound in this pic....and make sure you click the clip below to see how hard a 2 inch shield is...
(http://www.tradgang.com/upload/terry/paraboar10.jpg)
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Be Prepared...CLICK HERE (http://www.tradgang.com/videos/tg/hog1.wmv)
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Great video Terry, Great information guys...
I really like a quartering away shots on all hogs, but with boar hogs, that's the only shot I'll take. The sheild on the boars is like a rock and really hard to punch through, quartering away lets you slip under it.
HcSmitty, we have a large selection of points, inserts and heavy broadheads and questions are free, no limit. :D
braveheartarchery@sbcglobal.net
I like a good 11 to 12 gpp, with a 175 gr head. It is a killer on deer, I shoot 42# out of my bow. I am using woodsman elites, any advice on the right head for hogs? i really like the penetration they get, but a lot of people like 2 blades on pigs. Whats the reasoning? :confused:
Your profile says you are 22 years old - you are a young tough guy - pull that bow back all the way! Unless you are 4 feet tall and have short arms, you should be able to get to at least 27" and it will make a huge difference in your arrow power.
Haha, im 5'6", 130lbs, 34 inch chest, 28in waist. Im a lil guy, just about the size of the average 16-22 yr old confederate soldier(im a hardcore reenactor). Im a lil guy. My draw length with a compund used to be 26 inches. But i do have long gorilla like arms, but i cannot for the life of me figure it out. I shoot with my bow arm completely straight, and when i anchor in the corner of my mouth i only get 24 inches. lol im tryin.
I find the corner of my mouth is not a set distance from my bow hand. My draw started at about 26 and got shorter and shorter as I tilted my head and hunched my shoulders trying to aim better. I finally started trying to get my back muscles more involved and get my pulling arm and elbow lined with the arrow. Found that I can now draw 27+ and shoot better than when I was trying to "aim". Try it and see if you can't get better form and arrow flight. Good Hunting!