I saw a comment on another thread that most people foot carbon shafts with aluminum. Is this correct?
I am about to work up my first set of carbons (GoldTip 5575s)so this is all new to me. Is there a reason why this footing is commonly done? I am planning on using 100g inserts behind 125g tips, so I already have some weight forward, but wonder if there is a durability issue here. Also, is there a reference on what aluminum shaft to use with a given carbon shaft, and how long of a foot piece do you use? Do you put it right up to the end of the carbon, against the shoulder of the insert? Epoxy?
If I want to put on a wrap before bareshaft tuning and trim the tip end of the shaft, I read about using saran wrap to temporarily stabilize the insert for test shots; how do you temporize the footing during tuning, same way, with saran wrap?
Thanks once again for advice...this place is a real resource!
On hard,frontal impacts,the insert can be driven back into the shaft,acting like a wedge and splitting the front end of the shaft.
I have been using a 1" piece of aluminum,epoxied on the front end and 1/2" on the nock end.It really strengthens the shaft,especially on front impact shots.
I don't put them on till I am sure I am done cutting the shaft.At that point,I can fine tune with point weight.
Light sanding the shaft end with fine sandpaper and a quality epoxy,like JB Weld.The insert lip probably will be too wide to let the footing go farther than the end of the shaft,unless you want to turn down that lip till it is the same diameter ast the shaft,then the footing can cover it.I have done them both ways.
If you have the wood grain trad shafts,2216 should work.If they are black,2117 should do it.
http://tradgang.com/noncgi/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=2;t=000098
(http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a140/jbrandenburg/Mojostik011-1.jpg)
in the how to section there is a list of different size aluminum for different size carbons for footing.
Thanks guys.
Another TG example of asking the right people a question, and getting the answer immediately. :)
This is how I do it
http://tradgang.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=1;t=074690
On the good side.....The footing does help keep the shaft from splitting on hard impact shots. I intentionally shot my carbons into concrete to see if it would damage the shaft. The front of the arow was fine, but the impact drove the knock into the back end of the arrow and split it. You can "foot" the back side with 1/4 in of aluminum shafting too. It will keep the backside from splitting. At that point the arrow is bomb proof! Losing them is the only way you will not have the same dozen arrows two years later!
On the bad side.... it tears the crap out of my 3d targets, but that is really the only bad thing I can think of at this point.
Mine are footed with 1 inch of aluminum shafting and a 2 ton apoxy.
Good luck!
-Charlie
I should add,I cut mine on an arrow saw,then chucked them in a small drill press and used my broadhead file to bevel the edges,more than a 45 degree.
This helps when pulling them from my bag target.I have deburred the inside edge with a countersink bit,just twirling it with my fingers but a pocket knife works just as well.
On the last bunch I did,I chucked my 100 gr brass inserts in the drill press and used the file to turn down the rim so my footing would just slide over it.This reduced the insert weight to 96 grains and puts my footing right up to the back of the broadhead,making a smoother transition.
Fellers, those are some good tips, thanks.
Just to add to this info here, I saw on another thread where someone else used a cartridge reloading tool to bevel & debur the rims of the footings; I have one of those little trimmers (I do reloading) and see how that would work. It is just a hand held conical cutter used to touch up the throat of a cartridge case before reloading, I think mine is a Lee brand. It will do the outside, and then you swap ends sith the cutter and do the inside.
Killer job JimB. Mas perfekt.