Let us know what you think of the looks of these heads.Shooting for 250 grains. We are planning on making 440C stainless and 1075 carbon steel. Top(stainless)Bottom(carbon) (http://i807.photobucket.com/albums/yy351/Abowyer10/CIMG0383.jpg) Abowyer Inc. (http://abowyer.com)
Darn I just ordered Brown Bears with adapters for a 300 gr head......Do you need a tester? I would love to try out that stainless 250 with w 50 grain brass insert:) Looks great !!!! Are you going to do a 300?
Look great. :readit: :D :pray:
I like the way they look but would like to see you make them in 125 grain and 150 grain
I love my three-blades...but that sure is one tempting broadhead there...
I would really like to see those in 150gr. as well.
They look super! Do you have the demensions? I think my carbons would love them, and help my EFOC some!! I would buy the carbon steel heads personally.
Bob.
Those heads certainly look nice. But, IMO..the problem with screw-on heads is that it takes away from being able to create more weight with an adapter.
Having options is usually a good thing. I think I would rather have a very heavy glue on head around 250-300 grains.
I have always liked the screw-on one piece heads. I think I might try those out. Do you make them in 200 grain sizes?
I use the Brown Bear glue-ons currently. I like the looks of these in a screw-in. The 250gr. heads would work for me. I will go with the steel. If you come out with a lower weight series that would be fine with me also. I use 100gr. brass adaptors and like a point weight total of 225-250gr. for the carbons I use. I really like the back of the head angled less than 90 degrees with a beveled back edge. Very nice! The one thing I noticed with the first Brown Bears I received was that they were painted green. Like the color...but the paint wiped right off...? I would rather they were bare metal if that was going to be the norm. Thanks, David
I'd like them in 300gr please.
Those stainless ones are almost too purdy to shoot through a deer....Aaww who am I kidding, how could you not want to shoot that at something, now thats the sin...LOL
I think I will have to try some of those!
Look good to me. Ive been satisfied with my brown bears so far. would like to see you offer in 200, 175, and maybe 150. DB
QuoteOriginally posted by happy1:
I like the way they look but would like to see you make them in 125 grain and 150 grain
agreed
Are you planning to coat the carbon head with a teflon finish? I am going to be looking at buying some carbon heads form you. I am putting together some UEFOC arrows and the 250 grain head will help a lot with that.
I'll take some of the stainless heads, please!
Allan
They look great. When will they be available to order?
what about glue on for us woodies? Any plans
I like the carbon head myself.Maybe call them "Skin & Bones"...
Wicked awsome! Their look is clean, simplistic, and rugged. I'd buy 'em.
I would prefer a 175 grain. Great looking head. I would definately buy some.
are those all one piece or are you using inserts?
yeah baby! look sweet, if you make them in 200g let me know
250 looks great to me in stainless. It rains here.
stainless for sure...I like that weight... ;)
When are they available? They look great.
250 grains works for me. How soon will they be avaliable?
They look great. When will they be available to order?
Would like a 200 grain stainless.
I sure hope you guys are going to keep making the glue on head in CM, they're great heads. I like being able to use different adapters to get the weight I want.. The screw-ins look nice too.
i shoot the brown bear with 100 inserts and love , when will the screwin be on the market? Great broadhead,might like a heavier head some day
Any idea on price?
QUIT TEASING US AND START SHIPPING! I WOULD REALLY LIKE THAT HEAD IN A 200 GR.
Look real good.
One question I have, since I've never used single bevel heads. Do you have to burnish or lap the non bevel side of the head to get it sharp?. Your pictures are real good close ups and to my eye, the non beveled side looks a little rough and I can't imagine getting it sharp by honing only the one side. I'm thinking a good polish on the flat side would help sharpening a bunch. I guess you could get it to a wire edge then just lightly come back from the flat side to clean up that edge?
Just thinking out loud....
What are the dimensions? How thick is it?
I would think prototypes would be a bit rough...they are prototypes. Only one person I think asked what the price would be, a bunch asked already for a bunch of different sizes, and the heads are still in the design stage it appears.
The heads look good so far partner, let us see them when completely done, and then you can tell us if you will offer other sizes. Oh....and the suggested price would be nice too 8^).
250 is great! When will they be availble???
stainless,,, like the look.. if possible, 150 grain
Thank you all very much for the helpful input and I hope it continues. Right now we are only making the Brown Bear in a screw-in model. The dimension of the Brown Bear is 1 1/8 X 2 5/8. The thickness is .072. Since we are only making this one the only weight we will have will be right about 250. Also noticed that some people experienced problems with our paint in the past. We have addressed that and now with the teflon finish being added to all our heads we have not had another problem. I'm sorry but we are not sure of a price yet.
Cody, got my heads today. thanks for the note, and I will send you some pictures. Don Batten
Cody,
It's hard to tell, but are these a solid one piece or is the insert glued in?
Thanks.
Mike,
These are a solid one piece head. Thanks
Make them wider. Lets say 1.5" or more. I would like to shoot a single bevel axe in 200 grain or more.
I would like them in 300 gr also. Nice heads.
Cody,
Hey, I just wanted to clarify, I didn't mean my post to be any sort of put down on your heads when I was asking about them being a bit rough in texture. Of course, you took real good macro close up pics and if held "in hand" I might never have noticed.
I've never used single bevels and have never sharpened any. I consider myself pretty good at sharpening just about anything I've ever tried though. It's just I had the question about what you do on the unbeveled side if it's not already mirror smooth. In my mind you'd at least need to come back and do a couple strokes on the flat side to get them sharp or remove the burr. Is that correct? Sorry if this has been covered before but like I said, I've never sharpened single bevels. I'm interested in these though as they look really strong.
Are you able to tell us how the ferrule is attached? Is it welded, braised etc.?
Hmmm, just had a thought too. Is the texture I'm seeing really just the teflon coating you mentioned? I know on a frying pan, it usually has a texture about like a cast iron pan.
Anyway, just wanted to clarify.
As for weight, I'd like to see a selection from 125 to 200+ but I understand that you'd have to change the size or thickness a lot to do that and then it just isn't the same head is it.
Ditto the call for 150 grainers... Can it be done?
Well what do you know, I have all 3 of my bows tuned to work with 250 grain heads!
I'd be more than happy to test them out, although I'm kind of the Elmer Fudd of archery deer hunters so it could take me a few years to put one through a deer!
Dave,
You are absolutely correct about the single bevel sharpening process. After working the beveled side you do have to do very few strokes on the un-beveled side to remove the burr and achieve optimal sharpness. We usually suggest 95% of the work be done on the bevel side and 5% on the un-beveled side. We are also using a laser weld operation to attach our ferrule. With the paint you saw in the picture the texture came from simply a rush. We did not get to bake the heads for the necessary amount of time to allow the paint to cure. When held in hand the texture is unnoticeable and just seems like any other paint. Lastly we are planning on making a wider range of heads which includes almost all requests that are being made. But we must get our process down with this first head to continue to provide one of the highest quality heads on the market.
Thanks for the comments,
Cody-
I like the Abowyer lineup. I personally do not like having to glue adapters into my current Abowyer heads...I just have never found a simple and quick method to guarantee perfect spin 100% of time. I also have had adapters separate from the head. None of this is the fault of anyone of course...just the limitations of glue and multiple pieces.
I would request the Wapiti head in 250 gr with Teflon finish. I'm good for an immediate dozen.
I'd like to add: Abowyer is my first serious try with single bevel heads. I can get them as sharp as my double bevel heads with same effort. I see no down side to their use.
Kevin
Ditto on the 200 grain! I know you have to make money, but please price them reasonably! If you do they will fly off the shelf!
If i had to guess on the price, i would say the stainless steel head will be comparable to the other high quality heads ie the ashby head and german kinetics around 25-30$ a pop. I would seriously doubt they would be much cheaper.
They look great, i havent put a photo to photo comparison but it looks like the ashby head. Thats probably not a bad thing.
Love the teflon coating idea i am going to have to buy some more large boneheads soon!!!!
I have been waiting for your screw in heads. I have heard rumors, and they are true. These look fantastic, and I hope they arrive soon. 250 is good for me. As for carbon we all know how they sharpen up, how well do the stainless sharpen?
Dave,
I don't know how Cody makes his heads, but I've tried quite a few single bevels out recently.
The uniform action I recommend in "setting up" any head is to flatten the flat side.
What I mean by that is that when you start to sharpen the FIRST thing I recommend is to get that flat side perfectly flat. That will mean removal of paint, sorry to say.
That's easily dealt with when you are through sharpening by application of Chap Stik- to keep it from rusting in the nonstainless models. If its stainless, just make sure you're starting out with a flat "flat" side. You'll put Chapstick on them too, just to keep the edge from oxidizing when you stick it back in your quiver.
Then when you work the beveled side you will only need remove the wire edge, and polish and you will have the sharpest head you've ever shot into an animal.
Ray, that's pretty much what I was thinking. I've sharpened cabinet scrapers per Dean Torges instructions and the very first step is to lap the sides and get a polish on them then sharpen the flat of the edge to get it perfectly square and sharp then roll the edge. Looking at the single bevel heads, I immediately thought of the same process. A lot like sharpening a blade for a block plane. Lap the back flat then sharpen the bevel.
I guess if a guy wanted to keep the paint or teflon coating intact, that's where just doing a couple finish strokes from the back side at the end would come into play. But I bet ya I'd get them sharper the other way...
Looks good. Any idea when these are going to be available?
We are hoping to have these heads available a little after the first of the year.
QuoteOriginally posted by Ray Hammond:
when you are through sharpening by application of Chap Stik- to keep it from rusting in the nonstainless models.
It's worth mentioning Charlie Lamb's advice or was it Biggie Hoffman, on another thread about using chapstick?! Whichever mentioned to be SURE to mark that chapstick and not every use it for your lips..lest you end up with metal filings in your lips. They wouldn't say how they knew that! :rolleyes: :saywhat:
I agre with Don on the fact they should also be offered in at least 175. I would definitely buy some if they were, since they look like killers! :thumbsup: