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Main Boards => PowWow => Topic started by: [email protected] on November 05, 2009, 04:40:00 PM
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I have been trying to dip my CE Heritage; they are "fish eyeing" like crazy.
I have called both CE and Bohning (sp?)trying to understand and correct the problem. Bohning has been very helpful and tells me its because there is still oil on the shaft. They are going to get some samples and see what happens. CE is not aware of the problem and they are looking into it.
I think we have tried all the commonly known methods of shaft cleaning...Comet & Scothbright pads, the Bohning cleanser, even MEK which I understand is a milder version of acetone.
Last year I had Dave Doran (Archery Past and he makes the plastic dip tubes that are the industry standard) dip a dozen for me and we had the same problem. I didn't really worry about then, just fletch 'em up and lived with it.
Also Mike Hurley a good friend working on them...same problem.
Between these two craftsmen they have dipped thousands of shafts and we are still not finding a good solution.
Curious if any Tg's have had the same problem and how did you solve it??
Perhaps a combination of cleaning type products?
Any input appreciated!!
Wraps are not really a solution
Thanks,
Bob
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My only suggestion would be to make sure the shafts are nice and clean.
Sounds like you did clean them???
There are only some many things it could be. Either the shafts or the dip. If the shafts were cleaned could it be the dip?
Is the bohning dip "old?" Seperating? did you mix it up before dipping the shafts?
Only time I have had issues with CE has been when the shafts have not been cleaned prior to either fletching or dipping.
Curious to see how this turns out.
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I have had the same exact problem with my Arrow Dymanics shafts. In my experience assuming that humidity is not a factor and you have a good mix if you thinned the laquor. You may need you let the shafts dry for a day or so before you dip them.
Try it if you haven't already.
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Thanks...the paint is Bohning and fresh and been thinned with Bohning thinner. Perfect coats on wood shafts.
No humidity to speak of in central Oregon.
Let them dry for a day...sounds wierd being on the edge of a desert...but who knows?
Cleaned them and roughed them up a bit.
Jcar...were they CE Heritage shafts??
Thanks!!
Bob
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No, never the Heritage shafts. Many 100's of "regular" CE shafts though.
As an aside: I bought some wood shafts a long time ago that were already "sealed" and I tried to just dip them without roughing them up at all and I got a "water beading" type of look. the bohning would not adhere to the sealer that was used. bohning products can be tricky in regards to what they are compatible with.
could it be they "wood finish" isn't compatible??
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Bob, has anyone mentioned "silicone" or "release agent", in the surface of the shafts?
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Bob,
The last few dozen Heritage shafts I have tried I couldn't get fletch tape, or glue to hold a feather on. I asked Tom at Rocky Mountain Specialty Gear, and he told me they use denatured alcohol. I tried it and my problem was solved. I am unsure is this would solve the problem with your paint....
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Theres just somthin about them things i went to my local archery shop 10 min before closing and it took the guy an hour and a half to put feathers on to arrows he didnt make me pay but felt bad the guy had to work so much over lol
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Hi Bob. I have dipped them in Rustoleum for a crown without any problems. I do lightly sand the area and then clean it with Acetone.
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Acetone and Rustoleum/Krylon here too..it's worked perfectly on any shaft I've tried, including all the CE models I've done.
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It is not just you, Bob. I have dipped only a doz CX Heritage 150's and they fisheyed on me too. I was using Bohning paints as well.
I never really solved the problem, but minimized it with a good cleaning of acetone. My paints werent the proble either. They dip fine with wood or other carbon shafts.
BP
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When i used to shoot carbons i would use 220 or finer sand paper to take all of the shinny finish off the shaft then rub down with denatured alcohol and dip within 20-30 minutes and never had a problem.I have dipped hundreds of carbons with no issues.If i dident sand sometimes i got the fisheyes you speak of
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I use denatured alcohol, get the shaft squeaky clean. No need to rough them up. CX Heritage shafts have a good coat of some sort of oil that bohning does not like.
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Thanks all!!
Good to know that I don't have a weird batch of shafts.
Will give the denatured alcohol a try this week-end.
I didn't really know exactly what denatured alcohol is...just seems to be a high-proof ethanol, i.e. Everclear??? with various foul tasting additivies to keep folks from drinking it.
Anyone know if you could use Everclear or equal to clean shafts??
Will post back after the week-end and let you know the results.
Bob
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I havn't tried the Everclear but have used 200 proof eythl alcohol. Don't get that stuff near a match.
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Welll....
Tried the denatured alcohol and that did NOT solve the problem.
If I use some other brand of paint then I may(read, most likely) have a compatability problem with fletch tight.
It's good to know that, at least I am not the only one having this issue.
Thanks for all your help!
Bob
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I have also had the "fisheye" problem with the CE Heritage shafts. I threw away my paint and tube, started with new everything and still no luck. I tried every chemical I could buy and sanded, washed, and still no luck. I gave up and went to wraps. I might try RC car spray paint next. Have used it on GT shafts with good luck.
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Did you ever try 2+2 carburetor cleaner it evaporates fairly quickly and will clean any oil on any surface.
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Bob have you tried arrow wraps. I use to dip my arrows until I discovered arrow wraps. The custom designs on the wraps on limitless.
I made a BW look alike design and gave it to Arrow Wraps Unlimited to make for me. Here are some woodies that have my custom wrap.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v107/doublelung/BWLookALike3.jpg)
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Just curious, why can't wraps be the "solution"? Ten minutes ago, I just finished applying white wraps to my Beman MFX Classics after cleaning them with denatured alcohol. No mess, it's quick, and looks great too. I use fletching tape to apply the feathers and it works great as well.
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I don't know...using wraps is like dry fly fishing with worms!! Just not for me.
Thanks!!
Bob
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Bob I had the same problems with the Heritage shafts. I quit using them for that reason. If I remember right I dipped them in clear bohning (2 coats) first then the white and it seamed to work. Been a long time, and alot of different shaft dipped since then. I did "light sand between clear coats. I remember it was alot of work and since changed shafts.
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I have used Ajax on aluminum for years. It is not a detergent and won't leave a residue. Put Ajax on a damp paper towel and rub, then wash under water & dry. Don't touch with bare hands. If the water flows on the shaft and does not bead up, it is probably ready. Next do a test.
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Hello everyone, This is my first post on this site. Lots of info here. I will be the first to admit that I do not know much about making arrows or shooting traditional bows....yet! I do know a little about painting stuff though. I am not sure if it will work in this application but you might go to an automotive paint supply and ask for a small bottle of "smoothie". I have used it in paint to help prevent "fisheyes" with great success. Usually it only takes a few drops in a quart or so of paint. It wont take the place of proper substrate preparation but if you are still having problems it might be worth a try.
Dave
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We can do them for you for $1.50/shaft (includes a white base coat to make the colors pop, then the color of your choice).
(http://rmsgear.com/Images/TutorFeatherSplice/tutor_feather_splice_27.JPG)
(http://rmsgear.com/Images/TutorFeatherSplice/tutor_feather_splice_26.JPG)
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Oh..and wraps just don't have a "soul". :bigsmyl:
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Some success today...
Cleaned with acetone, dipped, fisheyed as usual, let dry (somewhat)cleaned with acetone again, all paint off, then dipped again which left a reasonable base coat. Second coat tomorrow.
Lots of work for something that should never be a problem in the first place.
Also, took a CE that I have been using as stumper and it was never dipped; its probably a a year or 18 months old. Figured any oil, etc. would be long gone. Stripped off the feathers, cleaned it and it fisheyed just like a new one!!!
Will give the "smoothie" a try, appreciate the tip.
I am going to look into switching arrow shafts.
HP, thanks for the offer.
Thanks all!
Bob
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Just try carburetor cleaner it works on everything takes grease and oil off easily.
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If I had that many problems I would just wrap them...PR
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UPDATE.....The wraps I used on my Beman MFXs, is starting to unwrap! Can't be the shafts because they're coming loose where it's wrap sticking on wrap, not wrap on carbon surface. Worked fine on my aluminum shafts. Prepped them the same too with denatured alcohol applied to the surface of the shaft and also to the surface of the wraps because the sticky overlaps the wrap surface. Could it be because the MFXs are such a small diameter??
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Seems like I used Rustoleum for a dipping paint. I would lightly sand the crown area with 220 grit. Then wipe it down real well with Acetone or denatured alcohol. Then I'd dip in Rustoleum. Didn't have any of the fisheye problem. Now I'll have to try it again to see if the current shaft react the same. Just got away from crowning these types of shafts...just fletch them and shoot them!
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I don't have a secret way, like I said; I get the shafts squeaky clean with denatured alcohol and then dip. I just dipped 2 dozen yesterday, had the same results. No Fish eyes.