I am shooting a 60" recurve at 45# and I draw about 29". I am not sure where to even start when it comes to arrow selection. Please school me about all things arrow. I am hoping to use the same arrow I use for my wheelie bow. They are Easton 2216 and 32" in length. Thanks.
-Joseph
I would guess somewhere around 2016 in alum. and Gt 3555 in carbons (adding weight to the front of these shafts should make them work.
2216s spine to about 90#, Waaaaay To stiff for your recurve. 2016s will work assuming center cut bow and fast flight string. Can't address carbons.
I was told to stay away from the fast flight strings due to the wear they would put on my old bow. Using B-50 strings. Any other recommendations?
-Joseph
2016s should still work,start with full length and 150ish point weight(insert and point).
Stu's calculator says 2016 29" to the base of point and 145 grain points will work well. 145 grain points and 15 grain inserts comes to 160 which compares well with hvyhitter's suggestion. leaving them full length may be weak but give you room to adjust.
Using the Easton calculator, it said I could run my 2216 's and a 100 grain point. It will be on the heavy side but I believe that helps with KE?
-Joseph
Joseph,
Easton charts are notoriously incorrect for trad bows! If you can get 2216s to work correctly --have at it. I think you will be VERY disappointed.
By the way, KE is compound bow advertisement hype. Physically heavier arrows will aid in penetration but that is a function of momentum and inertia, NOT kinetic energy.
Try to get with someone in your local area to get you going with trad equipment. Most all the "Pro" shops and published charts are compound bow oriented and most of the Pro shop folks (not all to be sure) will lead you wrong when it comes to matching trad equipment.
I wish you luck.
Well...... I shoot 2216s out of a 60# predator and need a 190 gr point to have them fly right. The easton chart just doesnt apply well to trad bows........
John
Guys thanks. So if I were to just buy some arrows and points, what would you suggest as a starting point. Keep in mind my goal is to deer hunt with this setup. Thanks.
-Joseph
if it where me in your shoes i would go away from aluminum and go to Badger arrows and order some cedar from him. he's good people i personaly shot my bows in a range from 55-57# and the 2216's at 30" with 145 bh's work great but i realy love the woodies good luck too ya this season
Doesn't anybody use wood anymore?.I bought some of the Barta wilderness arrows and they are pretty good.I like them and the price wasn't bad.When I had my wheelie bow I used Carbon Force Radial X weave in a 400 they were tough and fast.
Joseph,
Send me an email and I'll send you Stu's calculator. It's worth hours of fun looking at different combos.
Mike
I'd like a copy of Stu's arrow calculator also.
PMed you.
Thanks, Scott
Mike - You've got mail.
What is the reasoning behind wood arrows? Are they reliable. I am picturing someone whittling on a piece of wood, though I am sure they are probably mass produced by machines. Are they reliable as far as weight and straightness go? Thanks.
-Joseph
Good wood arrows are as good as anything else, they are just more work to make. Make sure you get good shafts, they aren't all the same. Assuming your bow is cut to center, and arrows cut to 30" BOP, I'd start with 60-64's.
For aluminum, try a 2016.
I always shoot arrow under spine from the charts.they are not useally right when it come to trad.Id try even 1916 .at 29 with a 125 grain tip.2016 are great arrow just a little heaver then 1916. your 2216 i think are going to be to stiff and heavy.if your going to shoot carbon try carbin express 100 or 150s good luck