(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v42/keyman/CIMG1979.jpg).
That oughta do the trick! Nice Job!
Nice work. :thumbsup:
Sweet, just in time for the rut.
Some day I would love to have a couple heads like that.
The guys I hunt with think I am nuts to "restrict" myself with a recurve. That would put them over the top.
Lets see it with some blood.
That's sharp looking, in more ways than one! :thumbsup:
Wow! That is impressive, Jim!!!!!
Allan
Nice point Razor.
Very nice!
That's a fantastic job. Question though, is that not too large to actually use?
I don't think so, I havent weighed it but I'd guess that it is under 200 grs. It IS at the top of the size scale though. I wouldn't go any bigger.
Love it. Looks good. Enjoy!
RAZOR, Good looking head. I got my first stone head deer this year and it was a really neat experience. Did you thin the base down? What stone is that? I thinned my bases down maybe too thin. The head I used broke at the base but was held on with the sinew.
Semper Fi (67-69)
looks great to me! nice work Jim your getting the hang of that :thumbsup:
AWWW that looks great! I've been waiting weeks now for my shipment from neolithics, i'm outta rock and broke my only good head on a missed shot at a doe!
Neolithics is really slow in delivery. I like the quality though.
I can't remember the exact name of this rock but I think it is a flint from Mexico. The base could have been thinner. My notches stalled out but it should be strong.
Try using indirect percussion for notching on thicker bases. A punch that looks like a screw driver struck with a round hammer stone works real well. The handle of the punch in made out of solid antler. Keep pressure from the heal of your hand holding the punch on the point to keep it from breaking.
artifaker, You have a photo of that technique. Would like to see it.
Thanks
I've seen it done with copper nail hammered flat then filed with a little tip left in the center. The tip acts as a stop in the bottom of the notch.
Here it is next to a 160 grizzly
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v42/keyman/CIMG1973.jpg)
Well i don't have a pic but your holding the punch dagger style in your less dominant hand and striking the punch handle with your throwing hand. You just slide down the punch handle until the heel of your hand is pressing down on the point, hard. I've even seen people stand on larger dovetail like spear points while they are striking the punch.
You also could just stem the point at the base for a wrapping. When you stem (make about 1/4 of the length of the point narrower at the base) you use the width reduction to set up more pressure platforms to thin the base as well. You need to get the base thin so the hafting doesn't stick out like blob.
That is a good looking point, the edges are clean and sharp. And it is sturdy, more like a dart point. But that would be better in our more modern system that a real small thin point.
I saw Woody Blackwell shoot a hog with a point made of computer screen glass just about that size- the hole it made on entry was something to behold.
The hog as I recall didn't make it more than 25-30 feet from the point of impact.
Great looking point.
Thank you all. I like the feedback and suggestions. I really enjoy knapping and my goal for this season is to take a big game animal with one of my points.
Looking at the head I feel it may be a tad too big and the design will not let me secure it well enough. I am going to have to modify it. I guess it will be stemmed.
Got the head stemmed tonight and mounted it in a rivercane shaft. Spins true. I test fired it a few times, shot great! I touched up the edge again then put it in my quiver.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v42/keyman/CIMG1975-1.jpg)