I am new with lots of questions,and I hope someone can help. I shoot a 1972 Bear Super Magnum 48 with 150 carbon express arrows 150gr head. I pulled my bow 15 times and had someone mark the arrow and measured my draw length. shortest was 29 1/4" to 30 1/4 " my arrows are cut to 30 3/4". I have been reading about these bows and finger pinch, stacking, bows breaking etc. I seem to be killing deer so is ignorance bliss or should I adjust anything? I am attracted to traditional because I like simple but it may be more complicated than I first thought.
It COULD be more complicated, or not, as you deem fit.
ChuckC
It is my belief that a major trait of man is to over complicate things.
I would think that you would experience a bit of finger pinch but it it isn't bothering you then it's no big deal. If it gets a lot harder to pull the last inch or so then you are experiencing stacking. Again no big deal if it doesn't bother you.
I would suggest you try to develop more consistency with your anchor. Your draw length shouldn't vary that much from draw to draw unless you are changing your shooting stance with each draw.
I have a very similar setup with a 160 gr. head.
Same bow.
Mine is 40@28.
I am pulling just a hair over 29.
Watch it for stress cracks starting to develop, and even then, this is not always terminal.
I did change to a 6 strand skinny string from CJC.
You're killing deer with it---wouldn't shange a thing.
IF you want to try different string, arrow weights, etc.......personally, I would wait till after the season. Your setup now is killin 'em.
Farmer
Ain't broke don't fix it.
you can make it as simple or as Complex as you want.
It is up to you and what floats your boat. If analizing all the details makes you happy great. If getting arrow to fly pretty darn good and then shoot shoot shoot. great.
Joe
45 years ago tradional archery was simple, now it's more complicated. Maybe it's the people and not the equipment although there are more choices in equipment to choose from now. I don't remember all of these rambling conversations of tuning and aiming techniques that we have amost daily now.
I am thinking of trying 250 carbon arrows and a 100gr insert with my current 150gr broadhead after this season. My string is a B-50 Flemish 15 Strand string from 3Rivers archery. should I change that?
I envy your simplicity.
You can probably shoot rings around me, as you are shooting one bow, one string, one arrow setup. I am shooting a bunch of bows, a bunch of setups, and playing around enough that I am unsure of which I should take with me on a given day. I just went on my first hunt of the year, a weekend jaunt that is more of a scouting trip than a hunt. I could hunt Saturday and maybe a piece of Monday. Monday's hunt didn't happen, as it was spent breaking camp and driving home. I took four bows, a gazillion arrows, a .22 rifle and a .22 handgun...besides the usual carry pieces.
And I knew that I was pretty sure which setup I would hunt with.
So much going on, I am like a baseball pitcher who practices throwing baseballs, softballs, whiffleballs, ping-pong balls, tennis balls, pachinko balls and medicine balls. How do you build up muscle memory like that?
No, you are doing it entirely right. One bow, one setup, one flight to memorize and perfect. I envy you.
Killdeer :notworthy:
You'd be more accurate with a longer bow. Finger pinch is the pain from having too much string on the fingers which causes a poor release and is much more painful than the finger pinch. Try a longer bow if you need to shoot further then the ave 17 yds. The olympic ave shot is more than 17 so they use 72 in bows.
Bowmania
Human beings can complicate a rock! I shoot 7 different bows,#40-#50, use only 2 shafts, GT 35/55 and Vapor 2000,28", 4"parabolic RW feathers, and between 145-160gr. for my field tips and broadheads. All 7 of these bows shoot great out to 35-40 yds. The weak link in the chain is always the shooter, and inconsistent form, in any shooting sport! I have worked hard all spring and summer rehabing from shoulder surgery, and am shooting better than ever,and am keeping it super simple.Everytime I start to change a set up, I ask myself is it working, would the game I have shot with this be any deader, am I capable of shooting any better than I am. Most of my bows shoot off an elevated rest and get great flight, probably the deciding factor instead of my release. Like the post above said, if it aint broke dont fix it. Have fun, keep killing deer, enjoy the ride.
M,
If you arrows are flying good then don't change. As far as going to fast flight string, I personally wouldn't. The lack of stretch puts quite a bit of extra stress on the bow. You may gain a slightly better feel and perhaps 5 or so fps but I wouldn't risk over stressing that vintage bow for the minimal gains you would get.
Yup, if the arrows just look like a spinning ball of feathers on the way to the target and they hit where you want, you're good to go.
If you are interested in a heavier overall arrow and want to try the 100gr inserts to get you there, you'll probably have to go up in spine a little.
What draw weight is your bow?
I just got a second bow. I just started making my own endless strings.
Along with trying to get my dad setup with an old #45 Bear Grizzly and being the "bow guru" for all my friends (compound shooters) and trying to help them with their setups I really really wish I could simplify more.
Maybe try a second longer bow. Do what you want, but I'd keep it as similar to your current bow as possible. Realize the value of the KISS principle.
Amen Reddogge !
The bow draws 55@28" i am using the carbon 150 arrows because that is what I had. I try to shoot 5-10 arrows everyday. I shoot in my office shorte range but concentrate on draw anchor release would like to practice at longer range but the office is all I got. A 250 gr head/insert combo weight intrigues me but dont really know what i am getting for the risk of changing the setup.
How much up in spine wght? Move from 150's to 250's? I enjoy shooting the bow but everyone always tells me to get a longer bow not sure why. I am a hunter first and love this short bow in the woods.
TTT
As a data point, for my 55# Hatfield I am shooting 5575 Goldtips cut to 31.5 inches and use a total tip weight of 225 gr. And they fly great. 29.5 inch draw length. Don't know the spine weight.
As others have said, if what you are using is working I wouldn't change. If you want to experiment do a search for spine calculator on this forum. The one I am thinking of really works good, however it is an Excel spread sheet so you will need Excel to use it.
QuoteIt is my belief that a major trait of man is to over complicate things.
:thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup:
:clapper: :clapper: :clapper:
Well if your goal is to kill deer and you say you are,why try and fix something that is not broken?Why change point weights if what you are useing is working?Sounds like you want complications. :biglaugh:
"How much up in spine wght? Move from 150's to 250's? "
Sorry, I'm not really up on the carbons. I've just started using them last year and the ones I have shoot great so I have not experimented with them. I've always shot wood in the past and the general rule was that if you went up 25 to 30 grains in point weight, you had to go up one spine group in stiffness which is 5 lbs. Carbons have a much broader spine range so depending where your current shafts fall, you MAY be okay. I'd try the heavier point weight with the shafts you have and see how they fly. If they impact differently, wobble in flight or just plain don't shoot, you will probably need the next stiffer shaft.
If your existing shafts don't like the extra point weight and seem weak, you can shorten the shaft a bit. Taking an inch off will stiffen it up quite a bit but you have to have room to do it.
How about some of you other guys who know carbons jumping in here eh?
p.s. If you do buy some new shafts, DO NOT sit down and cut them all to the same length as your old shafts. Leave them a good bit longer and start out tuning them that way. Add point weight if they act stiff and take it away OR shorten the shaft if they seem stiff. Bottom line, more point weight or shaft length equals weaker spine and less point weight or shaft length equals stiffer spine.