Hey guys I recently got some landshark 160 grain heads (not sure the exact name but they are the older ones with the inch and 9/16 cut) and I am having a pretty hard time sharpening them! I guess its that concave blade but I'm pretty new to sharpening but i normally use a file and then a diamond rod and I really don't have the money to buy a KME so do any of yall have any pointers? Season opens thursday so its getting crunch time ha and also are there any other good indicators of how sharp they need to be besides shaving hair? thanks
I have had good luck with a G5 sharpener. The pull through type like I think its called Smiths. It has the carbide cutters that are set to the correct angle. You simply just pull the head backwards through and each time reduce the pressure until you use any pressure at all. The edge is not the most durable but it is plenty sharp and I dont take sharpness lightly. One good test is to stretch a rubber band about half of its limit with about 1/2 inch gap between each sides. Simply run the broadhead through the rubberband and if it cuts right away then you are good to go if it rolls the band away but dosent cut as sone as it contacts the band then keep sharpening. I have had good luck with simmons heads and this method of sharpening. Good Luck.
Use a chainsaw (round) file. I use one for all of my broadheads. :thumbsup:
Cmane07,
Brian's right. Any carbide pull through sharpener will work but the edge created will not be as durable as it could be.
Woodchucker has also added a very good tip with the chainsaw file. I'd follow up the chainsaw file with tightly rolled up strips of wet/dry sandpaper in grits from 220 to around 1200 or even finer to achieve a polished edge. This is free-hand work and you'll need to come up with a way of maintaining a consistent angle. Let us know how you make out.
Ron
I recently figured them out myself, by using a chainsaw file and a "wheelie sharpener" combo. My process is to use the chainsaw file, just like you would a flat file on a straight edge broadhead. I make numerous "hard" strokes changing the angle of the edge to make it a little flatter. Once I have both sides worked down pretty good, I lighten up on the pressure some, but not really to a "final edge type softness."
At this point I run the heads through a "wheelie sharpener". Lots of people say they can get a really good edge with just the wheelie sharpener, and that's why I purchased it with the heads, but I never could get them sharp enough to cut hair. After changing the blade angle, it only takes a few passes through the "wheelie sharpener" to easily get them hair shaving sharp.
Thanks alot guys i'm definitely gonna try these as soon as I can. I'll let yall no how it goes but it'll prolly be around wednesday because i'm at school now and won't go home until then but thanks for the tips!
Here's a link: http://tradgang.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=1;t=061973
You can substitute a chainsaw file for the bench grinder for cutting the relief.