Trad Gang
Main Boards => PowWow => Topic started by: tuxdad on October 09, 2009, 10:56:00 PM
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Howdy all,
I'm thinking of trying out some grizzlystick sitka's possibly for next year... Anyone shooting them now, if so How do you like them ???
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I love'em! The owner of The Archery Shop I frequent orders them already made up from Kustom King. The only option is to what length Budro will cut them for me, or another customer. They come with 100 gr inserts ready to be glued in. Mine are cut at 29" BOP and weigh 504 gr with a 125 gr point. They fly great out of all of my bows in the 46-48#@28" range and they hit the target with authority.
Bill
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Any tuning issues or problems with them ??
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I shoot em and love em, I think if you look there is another older post on the same subject.
I've no problems yet some seem to have some.
No deer shot with one yet, my first year using them and wasnt using them on one deer so far.
God bless
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I have 6 of the sitkas and 6 alaskans, I had trouble tuning them, Initially cause I was losing inserts into the targets. You should only cut them from the front But you have to do it in Steps, so you have to partially glue the inserts in, Shoot, remove insert and cut, then re-glue, Quite the process, I like to Bare Shaft too I had a hard time with this as well, SO I lightly Fletched (3 x 3") to get some stability that helped a lot, But after all was said and done and the cutting process, the arrows turned out lighter than I had hoped,
Back to square 1, I am really giving them a fair shot, But for their cost seems hardly worth it..
They Are however the Pretiest shaft by far out there..
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I really wanted them to work outta' my bows-50# cut past center. The sitkas didn't have enough spine even with a 125 gr point. The alaskans were better; but after a month of tuning effort I went back to wood.
If they tune well for you they are an excellent shaft and worth the price I'm sure.
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I also got some sitkas and they were to week out of my 50 lb longbow. They fly terrible and were way over priced. I had bad luck with them also I was shooting 125 up front way to weak. I like carbon arrow just not grizzlysticks.
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I must be the anomaly here, I shoot sitkas, 28.5", with 150gr to 225gr up front out of a 46# Black Widow longbow, a 50# Martin Serengeti, and a 55# Tomahawk longbow, they shoot great for me.
I spoke to one of the tech guru's at 3r and I was told that one problem is that one half dozen won't weigh the same or spine the same as the next half dozen.
I really like them and will keep using them, maybe I got lucky with my couple of dozen, but like others have said I have heard they can be a pain.
I know that wasn't much help but that was my experience with them.
John
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I'm with Lost Creek Bows. There are better and cheaper options.
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I buy a couple dozen a year, mainly Alaskans. Been very consistent product for me. Every shaft has spine ridge and must be located for nock orientation, that may explain a spine difference to those that do not read directions. But other than that, the weight of shaft and tapered shaft is big PLUS IMO over other carbon. I shoot also the alluminum nocks inserts
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"...that may explain a spine difference to those that do not read directions"
Geez Joey, were most men around here, REAL men don't read directions!
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I'll shoot them till the end...
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Originally posted by joebuck:
Every shaft has spine ridge and must be located for nock orientation, that may explain a spine difference to those that do not read directions.
Care to elaborate more on the spine ridge ?? Should that be where your odd feather should be ??
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Roll shaft on flat surface. You will feel a Bump. Its from the manufacturing process. The bump side out will give you a stiffer spine. Bump side in toward your faceplate will give you a weaker spine. Choose what you need and shoot.
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I personally Spent Much time Finding that "ridge" ALL carbon shafts have it. Reguardless I still couldnt get them to work. I will keep trying though on other bows..
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Shooting a 50# Kota Killum. I bought some mis-labeled Woodies. Looking to buy a spine tester. So far I have 4 flying good. I played the differential spine. I want to mark the bump or the weak side as I would say and test the spine. As far as bareshafting went, just about drove me crazy. Then tried tuning with broadheads. They were driveing me crazy, but I was determined. Had to start over basically. A rather unuasual method. I ended up taking 5 different length and fletching configurations with 4 different broadheads, and 3 diff weight inserts. Shot and shot and shot. Kept gradeing them on an A to F. Narrowed it down to the 2 best and tuned from there. Ended up at 29 3/4", 5" fletch, 50gn insert, and a 200gn WW. Came in at 700gns. Only about 12% Foc. A little lower than I wanted. I have 2 that are set up exactly the same way that are all over the target. I will make what I have left work too. I won't buy any maor though. I talked to Alaska BHS and he said simply mislabeled nothing else wrong.
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I'm actually having pretty good success with mine sitkas out of 43 and 50# bow. I did have one arrow that would not shoot and I rotated the nock 180 and it then flew perfect. I'd buy them again if I didn't have the worst customer service experience I ever had with that company. After that I boughts some ArrowDyamic trad lites and they seem be very nice arrows, maybe even better- Steve
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Ive got 6 G/S arrows with zwickey heads I might be selling 27 1/2" BOP...PR
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So far what I am reading here does not speak well of Grizzlystiks. I am lucky I went with the AD Hammerheads.